husky 55 help

[wrenchman]

I'm about to put the jug back on one of my 55s and was wondering if I should do any port work. I'v had hundreds of these saws apart but the dealer I worked for never did any hot rodding, so i'm new to porting. this one has the open port cyl. and will be a work saw. I'v already opened the ex. port on the outside to match the muffler. I was planning on a 1/2 hole between the muffler studs as this is a strait shot out from the port unless I'm told not to.

 

[sawinredneck]

Thats a muffler mod, do a search on that, lots and lots and lots and lots of info about those one here!!! Many ways of doing it, then you have to adjust the "H" seting on the carb to richen it back up right. Up to 25% gains in power, probaly not that much on a saw that old, but.................

Port work involves grinding the cylinder and changing the timing, big difference between the two!!

 

[wrenchman]

I was asking about port work! I threw all the details in about the muffler to be clear!

 

[sawinredneck]

Again, lots of information about this as well!! Sorry I am beat tonight, I can't remeber off the top of my head, but I THINK you lower the intake and raise the exhaust ports 1mm or .040" and widen them up. But it's been a day, so others will corect my errors!

 

[Brownpot Deaton]

in genereal this assumption is correct..but to be easier..just WIDEN the EXHUAST to 70% piston diameter or skirt edge..whatever comes first...if be careful raising the exhuast...one wrong move,even by mistake will cost you another jug and having to start all over!! I BARELY avoided this myself...so id recommed just widen it for now...should make it more torquey...as for intake..i have forgotten..

this is what i remember being correct...i don't think porting is really dependent on muffler modding THAT much unless you are racing alky...

 

[wrenchman]

ok I'll just wide'en the ex. and bolt it down. has anyone ever worried about index of the plug ? seems like the ground strap being up top would make a big difference in a little high rpm engine.maybe think hemi????or is the plug at an angle to keep the spark up in the charge? I may have just ansered my own question. have to be a real short plug for a hemi set up.

 

[Brownpot Deaton]

????

i couldn't help you there..all i know is the alky's run that setup....

let us know how she runs...i have a friend contemplating same thing....

 

[wrenchman]

hey brownpot how do you like your 359?

I just talked to a buddy that will sell me a 359 and a 2100 for real cheap, and was wondering if the 359 would pull a 24" with 3/8 chain. I have a 460 husky as my small saw on the truck but it won't pull a 24" very well.

 

[Mr.]

I just talked to a buddy that will sell me a 359 and a 2100 for real cheap, and was wondering if the 359 would pull a 24" with 3/8 chain. I have a 460 husky as my small saw on the truck but it won't pull a 24" very well.

You couldn't make me run a 359 with a 24 inch bar, if it was stock.

Fred

 

[Brownpot Deaton]

missed ya..

ooops...missed ya..sorry if this is too late...but my particular 359 pulls a 20" windsor bar and woodsman pro full chisel square tooth. now stock...I remember trying out the square and it was very much at the edge of my saws power limit..then i did an aftermarket muffler for the 357 and felt a difference in the low torque...and by difference i mean i could pull/push it some while it was in the wood(cutting stumps so bar was always burried)..but i emphasize some...stock..no way..would be replacing parts now im sure...then i modded the muffler(ugly but worked) and ported it...ran like a scalded ape...torque and speed...and by torque i mean i could put both hands on the rear handle and pull it pretty hard and it would bog down some, but never stop,... just kept cutting and pulling out bigger chips...and that was with square....

this was my particular case in old oak stumps been dead for 2 months...but a 24" stock...no way...muffler mod...i dont think so...20"..no problem, but you would never be able to catch up to a 361 or 357 for speed...so its a good saw, and price is justifiable since i've done all this for less than a 361 or a 357, but its all up to you...

and for times..at the texas gtg last yr. i ran riverrat's modified 361 in some softer wood that was about 19" wide and his would go through it in about...16 seconds and mine with a 357 muffler would do it in about 22 or 24 seconds if memory serves me right...this was me running both(can't call technique on this) and fresh brand new square tooth on both saws,(made it at the gtg and let rat keep it..hope he liked it...stuff awesome!..cut 2 seconds of his time with stock chain...)

so my opinion(and not to be used for anyone buying anything since i would hate to be blamed for something) is pound for pound.the 361 wins by a long shot...(at this yr's gtg, they should be neck and neck.... i hope...) but for price and performance...id say they are even...for price mainly...i have no objection to my saw..and glad i bought it because it is a great saw to modify!!!

hope this helps anyone who reads about these 2 saws....



side note: if you do get those saws let me know how the 2100 runs..mines been giving me problems and would like to know how it should be running....just fixed it and she runs...loud as H3LL!!!!....

 

[wrenchman]

hot 55 husky

ok guys, after I'v been told not to front-port a muffler I did it anyway! I cut an oval hole the same size as the port centered between the studs. now I have a saw with more torque than I could have ever thought possible! yes I lost some RPM's but made up for it in brute power. now I'm really confused, every "hotsaw" I've ever seen had dual ports up high on the sides. fill me in, was my torque gain a fluke or do dual ports hold the RPM's up and ad torque??? I'm running 72 LG chain, 7 tooth sprocket. pulling about a .025 chip. I will be adding a screen soon as we are finally drying out here in the NW. very interested to see what kind of power I loose if any.