Captain Crunch
ArboristSite Operative
Back to basics - suggest going ahead with the compression test, seat of the elbow can be decieving. Also suggest running running a vacuum test.
Husky 55 Will Not Start
- Thread starter Justin+08
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Back to basics - suggest going ahead with the compression test, seat of the elbow can be decieving. Also suggest running running a vacuum test.
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
Great I will search on here to find out how to do a vacuum test....I know how to do the compression test but unsure about the vacuum test.
272super
ArboristSite Operative
Do the pressure / vaccum test with the intake boot attached so you can determine if it is leaking from that area. I never bother trying to start a rebuilt saw without doing a pressure test first. After you get it running,it will be well worth the trouble. I know it can be maddening at times,but you learn so much in the process.
Captain Crunch
ArboristSite Operative
272 - on these saws, there is no clamp on the intake boot. When I pressured mine, it expanded slightly and the air leaked.
Will a brand new boot hold 3 to 5 PSI?
I am thinking some type of clamp, but the impulse tube is so close nothing fits. In vacuum, this expansion is reversed and it should pull down around the ends. I still would like to see some type of clamp here.
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
I cant find anyone that rents a vac tester. I am losing my patients with this thing. I tried again this morning, I adjusted the inlet needle lever in the carb, brand new plug again for good measure, freshly mixed fuel, now I cant even get the plug wet but besides that I cant even get it to turn over even if I spray starting fluid in the carb or directly in the head nothing and it's getting spark....I should have just bought the re-furbed one from Jacks from the get go so I didn't have to deal with all this frustration. I don't think I am going to waste any more of my time or money on this thing. I will just go get the re-furbed one and use this for thing parts. I have already spent about $100 on this thing and I can get the re-furb's for $299! I was determined in the beginning now I am just frustrated!!!!
Evin
ArboristSite Member
Hi,
You may want to make sure you still have the pulse tube which goes between the carb and cylinder.
You may want to make sure you still have the pulse tube which goes between the carb and cylinder.
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
I just assumed this didn't have one because it was the "EPA" model or whatever. It has the Zama carb on it. I just had the cylinder off and obviously the carb and I did not have any line connecting them that I could tell. I cant see the impulse line on the schematics, where exactly is it located?
If it doesn't have a impulse line between the case and the carb the impulse is through a small hole in the carb base, make sure it's not plugged or has a gasket covering it. If that the problem good call Evin. Steve
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
Your saying though that it would come out of the bottom of the carb and go into the case....because I rebuilt the carb and I didn't see anything like you mention. Is there a possibility that it does not have an impulse line or is that something that is absolutely there and I'm just not seeing it?
check to see spark happpens just before TDC (compression stroke).
if not check for missing/sheared key on flywheel.
if not check for missing/sheared key on flywheel.
It either has to have a rubber line between the case and carb or a small hole in the carb base and case that match up to each other. Steve
zogger
Tree Freak
gas tank vent ceramic filter
There's a tube with a duckbill and a teeny tiny ceramic filter thing in the tank. This has nothing to do with the carb, it's separate and allows air into the fuel tank. the little white filter thing gets blocked with "fines" ,microscopic bit of dust, etc. The saw WILL NOT RUN when that thing is blocked.
They push out the side from pushing on the tube inside the tank. You'll need to fish it around with a curved wire or something to see it, and then maybe take a ratchet extension and turn it around and stick the square hole over the tube and push it out. The new little white thing inside that tube is fifty cents. Had me going bonkers trying to get a 55 started until I found this out.
On mine, that tube and little tiny filter is part number 501 87 31-01
If you have a real skinny air nozzle and can get to the inside part of that vent tube, and hold your hand over the other side, it will blow out with a compressor. If not, and safer, just push that tube out and get a couple of those white filters.
Go to husqvarna site and find the illustrated parts list for that saw, you'll need the exact serial number. Real easy to see, just find the gas tank, you'll see the tube I am talking about and then see where it pushes out. Again, this is NOT the fuel filter and line, it is the tank vent.
There's a tube with a duckbill and a teeny tiny ceramic filter thing in the tank. This has nothing to do with the carb, it's separate and allows air into the fuel tank. the little white filter thing gets blocked with "fines" ,microscopic bit of dust, etc. The saw WILL NOT RUN when that thing is blocked.
They push out the side from pushing on the tube inside the tank. You'll need to fish it around with a curved wire or something to see it, and then maybe take a ratchet extension and turn it around and stick the square hole over the tube and push it out. The new little white thing inside that tube is fifty cents. Had me going bonkers trying to get a 55 started until I found this out.
On mine, that tube and little tiny filter is part number 501 87 31-01
If you have a real skinny air nozzle and can get to the inside part of that vent tube, and hold your hand over the other side, it will blow out with a compressor. If not, and safer, just push that tube out and get a couple of those white filters.
Go to husqvarna site and find the illustrated parts list for that saw, you'll need the exact serial number. Real easy to see, just find the gas tank, you'll see the tube I am talking about and then see where it pushes out. Again, this is NOT the fuel filter and line, it is the tank vent.
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
This makes sense seeing as how I feel like the fuel tank gets pressurized. After I crank on it for a while the damn thing leaks out of the cap around the brand new o-ring. Someone else on here said that it was probably the vent but that it wouldnt prevent it from starting. Your saying yours wouldnt start when the vent got clogged huh.....so this is something that I have to dig out of the tank the same way that I did with the fuel filter but it is just a little harder?
zogger
Tree Freak
it pushes out
--not hard at all, just you won't see it until you fish the little end of the tube into view. Looking right into the tank opening, it is OVER the filler hole. Bend a stout wire and try to pull the end into view (it is semi rigid, not like fuel line). Once you see the end, hold it there, snake another tool over that, I used a six inch extension reversed, then it pushes out to the outside of the saw, where you can grab it and finish pulling it out.
Mine was running fine, stopped, would not restart. Drove me bats. Had everything, fuel and spark. Yanked me arm half off. Sure did use some choice language for a spell... I guess it crossed a threshold of plugged-up-edness and would still run while I was using it, but then not restart. Local husky wrench clued me into that vent filter thing. Easy as heck to replace once you have done it once. I replaced that little thing and it started like new....fifty cents.....
As others have said, there sure are better fuel and air intake designs out there, but it'll work if all the seals are tight, especially them dumb butt joint carb boots, must be pristine clean and new to seal correctly, and check muffler bolts!
That's what finally killed mine, muffler bolts rattled loose, was running with leather gloves on and didn't feel the heat, by the time I noticed the sound and feel of an increasingly leaner engine is was too late, el roach-o.
It's sitting in a basket now for eventual rebuild.....it ran good for a long long time though and I cut a ton with it. I figure I earned what I learned and it'll run again when I pick me up another six pack of round tuits..
Go get the IPL for your saw and look at the drawing, it will be clear as day then. There ain't that many do dads inside the tank. It's the one that goes to the outside world, on the clutch side of the saw. The other one goes to the carb...
--not hard at all, just you won't see it until you fish the little end of the tube into view. Looking right into the tank opening, it is OVER the filler hole. Bend a stout wire and try to pull the end into view (it is semi rigid, not like fuel line). Once you see the end, hold it there, snake another tool over that, I used a six inch extension reversed, then it pushes out to the outside of the saw, where you can grab it and finish pulling it out.
Mine was running fine, stopped, would not restart. Drove me bats. Had everything, fuel and spark. Yanked me arm half off. Sure did use some choice language for a spell... I guess it crossed a threshold of plugged-up-edness and would still run while I was using it, but then not restart. Local husky wrench clued me into that vent filter thing. Easy as heck to replace once you have done it once. I replaced that little thing and it started like new....fifty cents.....
As others have said, there sure are better fuel and air intake designs out there, but it'll work if all the seals are tight, especially them dumb butt joint carb boots, must be pristine clean and new to seal correctly, and check muffler bolts!
That's what finally killed mine, muffler bolts rattled loose, was running with leather gloves on and didn't feel the heat, by the time I noticed the sound and feel of an increasingly leaner engine is was too late, el roach-o.
It's sitting in a basket now for eventual rebuild.....it ran good for a long long time though and I cut a ton with it. I figure I earned what I learned and it'll run again when I pick me up another six pack of round tuits..
Go get the IPL for your saw and look at the drawing, it will be clear as day then. There ain't that many do dads inside the tank. It's the one that goes to the outside world, on the clutch side of the saw. The other one goes to the carb...
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
Great bro thanks!! I guess I'll give her hell one more go and see what happens, if that doesn't do the trick looks like I'm just keeping her round for parts.
Captain Crunch
ArboristSite Operative
Impulse is not via rubber tube, but rather by a plastic tube built into the back of the intake block. The pointed end of the impulse tube fits into a small rubber grommet in a hole in the base of the cylinder just below where the intake boot attaches. If that grommet is not there, or is worn, you will have a leak. A new one can be made from the right size rubber tube in a pinch.
Since it won't start on starting fluid (don't try this at home kids), I suspect a big bad air leak of some kind or really, really low compression. If you don't have a compression tester, take the plug out and put your thumb over the hole. When you crank it should "POP" your thumb off vigorously.
Air, fuel, fire and comp = vroom vroom. take away any one, and you'll be pullin' but not sawin'.
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
Well I've definetely been pulling!! Yes now I know exactly what you guys are talking about! It was in good shape from what I remember but now I need to go back and double check. I was stuck on thinking it was a flexible hose. Now I can picture it perfectly. So I have two more things I can check. Fuel tank vent and impulse connection. It's amazing that something so small is so complicated!.....that's what she said...
Captain Crunch
ArboristSite Operative
Harbor Freight has an imitation mighty vac for cheap, a few of the guys on here have used it. They probably also have a compression tester.
Would really like to hear the compression test numbers, don't you have a buddy that's into hot rods or bikes or something.....
On the carb rebuild - how did you clean all the tiny passages and such? I gave up on brake clean and compressed air and have gone to hot water/soap in an ultrasonic cleaner ($25 buck as, you guessed it, harbor freight, I know, I'm like a walking advertisment)
For what it's worth, the 55 EPA is supposed to be just a bit hotter than the standard 50/51/55, so it is probably worth the hassle.
How about posting a picture so we all know what your working with here....., is she neat and clean or rode hard and put away wet?
Would really like to hear the compression test numbers, don't you have a buddy that's into hot rods or bikes or something.....
On the carb rebuild - how did you clean all the tiny passages and such? I gave up on brake clean and compressed air and have gone to hot water/soap in an ultrasonic cleaner ($25 buck as, you guessed it, harbor freight, I know, I'm like a walking advertisment)
For what it's worth, the 55 EPA is supposed to be just a bit hotter than the standard 50/51/55, so it is probably worth the hassle.
How about posting a picture so we all know what your working with here....., is she neat and clean or rode hard and put away wet?
Justin+08
ArboristSite Lurker
A bit hotter huh, now you got me interested again. Yeah the only pic I posted was the carbs wench plug. I used brake cleaner, but I tell ya the thing looked mirror clean, I didn't see a speck of varnish period. I am sure I have a compression tester somewhere I will find it and maybe I will stop in harbor freight tomorrow too for a vac. She is a little rough but not terrible, it was my dads and he isn't the best at up keep. Through this process I have given everything a pretty good cleaning. She has a cracked rib on the starter assembly cover, right where the air intake ribs are. I have a renewed interest now so hopefully this last give her hell gets her done!! Is there a way I can verify its the EPA, this is what the guy at jacks small engine told me from looking at the Carb.
Captain Crunch
ArboristSite Operative
The EPA is a closed port saw, easiest way to tell is the piston has big windows cut into the sides rather than being a uniform cylinder.
