sunfish
Fish Head
Parts are not interchangeable between a 353 and 357.
Both great saws and well worth fixing though!!!
Both great saws and well worth fixing though!!!
Husq 357XPG - piston grabbed tight, seeking repair advice for occasional chainsaw'er
- Thread starter woodchuckcanuck
- Start date
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Great Pic !
Yes, he's all of 5ft tall and been hauling logs for 40 yrs. He works solo too. He'll be 84 this year. His Husq broke down the other day and repair shop convinced him to drop $600 on a new Stihl. Can't believe he did that. He usually fixes and repairs until the last breath of life can come from the saw. But then again, he's not one to miss a day in the woods because of a broken down saw.
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
What really kills batterys is heat, mine last 6-8 years in my daily drivers. Ask someone who lives in the Southwest if they ever had one last that long.
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
linkhttp://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HIPL/HIPL2006/HIPL2006_5443420-01.pdf
Shop around, Baileys had the 359 P&C on close-out last Summer for cheap.
(Won't fit a 353, but will be just the ticket for that 357XP)
Shop around, Baileys had the 359 P&C on close-out last Summer for cheap.
(Won't fit a 353, but will be just the ticket for that 357XP)
Perfect. Also found a pdf workshop manual (from UK). http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...5zC4HuDXw&sig2=WGB1742ryu7FJx-7rOfCZQ&cad=rja
chainsaw dismantled
Hey all,
Thought I'd send up some pics of this evenings work. It came apart fairly easily. It took a bit of 3-in-1 oil squirted into the chamber and turning the flywheel with a screwdriver..ever so gently... and it popped out pretty good.
The piston and chamber condition are beyond repair though. Needs new parts as the pics will show.
Hey all,
Thought I'd send up some pics of this evenings work. It came apart fairly easily. It took a bit of 3-in-1 oil squirted into the chamber and turning the flywheel with a screwdriver..ever so gently... and it popped out pretty good.
The piston and chamber condition are beyond repair though. Needs new parts as the pics will show.
Was poking around Bailys site. Seems I might have the older model where the piston rod is 13mm. Where is the serial # on the saw? Probably covered in sap. 
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No need, Husqvarna Model and Serial Numbers shows where to look.
272super
ArboristSite Operative
The cylinder would probably clean up with muratic acid/sanding. Unless there are some deep scratches on the cylinder wall,the cylinder would likely be useable. What you see is now mostly aluminum transfer. I would attempt to clean it up first,but that's me. Others may prefer to go with another cylinder. Keep in mind you need to find out why the piston melted down so bad,so a pressure test will be needed when you get the cylinder back on. The intake boot and also the old style auto decompression are known culprits for an air leak.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rep sent for providing the link :msp_thumbup:!!
I downloaded quite a few Husky SMs :msp_thumbsup:.
Battenkiller
ArboristSite Member
As I mentioned above, that's what happened to mine. My fault, it was pretty much trashed by dry-rot and I never noticed. Had a manual decomp put in, but after I got it back I found out I don't really need it. Should have taken the mechanics advice and just plugged both holes.
I was on the phone with Baileys but they only ship regualr parcel mail. They don't use couriers like FedEx or UPS. I'll have to wait to see if if our postal system goes on strike tonight. Might have to wait or shop elsewhere. While on the phone I was asking about the Bailey's - OEM Cylinder Assembly for Husqvarna 357 and they asked it I wanted it with automatic or manual? I assume that has to do with compression? The saw I have now has a compression release on it. Not sure what to do. Still haven't found the serial num yet either and don't know if I should get that cyl/piston assem or the one for the 'older' model.
sunfish
Fish Head
The OEM cylinder will be better than the aftermarket ones. Get it with the manual decomp valve, not the auto one. It was a problem!
If you have a local Husky dealer, check with them. My local dealer is the same or lower price on Husky part than Bailey's.
If you have a local Husky dealer, check with them. My local dealer is the same or lower price on Husky part than Bailey's.
Battenkiller
ArboristSite Member
There was even a service bulletin put out by Husky telling how to plug one hole and put a manual decomp in it. Or leave it off and plug the valve hole.
Either way, you can't just put the auto decomp valve back in the manual cylinder, you have to buy a manual valve. The new manual valve cost me $38. Ouch, a lot of scratch for a little button. I don't have a problem starting mine without the decomp, and I have a bad rotator cuff. I wonder why they thought a burly logger would need an auto decomp?
There's nothing 'burly' about me at 6ft 180lb soaking wet. I only use the saw to cut wood for the winter really, 5-6 cord a year.
There is a local Husky authorized dealer. They want $329 for the aftermarket chamber and piston kit.:bang: They were the ones who told be to scrap the 357xp and 353g and buy one new saw.
Pretty sure this 357xp chamber has the auto comp.
I only use the saw to cut wood for the winter really, 5-6 cord a year.There is a local Husky authorized dealer. They want $329 for the aftermarket chamber and piston kit.:bang: They were the ones who told be to scrap the 357xp and 353g and buy one new saw.
Pretty sure this 357xp chamber has the auto comp.
sunfish
Fish Head
There's nothing 'burly' about me at 6ft 180lb soaking wet.
There is a local Husky authorized dealer. They want $329 for the aftermarket chamber and piston kit.:bang: They were the ones who told be to scrap the 357xp and 353g and buy one new saw.
Pretty sure this 357xp chamber has the auto comp.
Yeah, I'd avoid that dealer. In that case, order the OEM kit and just plug the manual de-comp hole. But if money is tight, an aftermarket kit will likely do ya fine and a lot less than $300.
