Husq 372XP vs. Stihl MS460 Mag? What should be done?

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I don't think the 441 is a quad port. It does have the strato ports with the dual transfers.
 
When I cut firewood at the hunting club , I'm usually cutting with a guy who is a professional logger . He has Stihl 460"s or 046's , i cant rem. which . My lowly MM'd 272 smokes his 46's in both speed and torque . He got pissed , and now brings an 066 to the ring . :dizzy:
Gotta get my 181 done , and shame his 66 . :msp_wink:
 
Correct me if I am wrong.....the crank bearing trouble is more to do with the x toque saws. The non x torque are as trouble free as any saw to my knowledge.
 
Correct me if I am wrong.....the crank bearing trouble is more to do with the x toque saws. The non x torque are as trouble free as any saw to my knowledge.

It's an occasional problem on the older one's too. I have a 2171 I'm putting a crank in now. The big end rod bearing was shot. I think it was Jacob J that said the 372 is one saw that would benefit from more oil, as in 32:1 mix. Please correct me if I quoted him wrong there.
 
The 372 and 385/390 are both saw families that benefit from extra oil. It seems like the saws ran with longer bars out west in production settings will give up sooner.
 
It's an occasional problem on the older one's too. I have a 2171 I'm putting a crank in now. The big end rod bearing was shot. I think it was Jacob J that said the 372 is one saw that would benefit from more oil, as in 32:1 mix. Please correct me if I quoted him wrong there.

I believe that is correct.

The deal with the X-torq saws is they have main bearings with plastic cages. Not that that's a bad thing I guess, but I've personally seen 2 late 2010 models that the clutch side main bearing was absolutely smoked. Just my opinion, but I don't think plastic caged bearings are such a good idea, but Stihl has used them for awhile.
 
I buy saws to cut trees down then up. Pro stihls and XP huskies do the job just fine. Only a die hard husky fan would say the 046/460 aren't good saws (tho I like 044's better), just like only hardcore stihl heads would say a 372 is a bad saw. Both have put way too much wood on the ground over many years to not be great. The only larger Stihls and huskies which have essentially the same displacement are the 440/372. 460's bigger than 372, 385's bigger than 460, never understood the ms650 (like I never understood the 365), 660's bigger than 390, 395's bigger than 660. If you like a particular brand and model, then run it. If what you got isn't good enough, modify it, or get a bigger saw.:cheers:
 
Huskies lose bolts, Stihl air filter setup doesn't stay as clean and the av on stihls aren't as nice. I've rebuilt both brands with new cranks.

The 460 is more solid feeling. 372 is more comfortable. Both will last a long time with good maintenance. It will be a toss up on which is faster between stock saws with the chain and tune probably making up the difference.

That's true with the 372 Huskys. I do a mid day quick check of everything daily. Top left on the starter cover and front left on the cylinder shroud seem to be the main offenders for me.....My 390 is the same as well. Kind of odd, but no big deal if you stay on top of it.

Also, the bolts on the wrap seem to loosen slightly on occasion.
 
The 372 and 385/390 are both saw families that benefit from extra oil. It seems like the saws ran with longer bars out west in production settings will give up sooner.

A lot of knuckleheads run their drags to low.....Not helping with the bearings....Seems to be an issue with the 460's as well. Any saw for that matter. The correct File-o-plate is a crank bearing's best friend.
 
A lot of knuckleheads run their drags to low.....Not helping with the bearings....Seems to be an issue with the 460's as well. Any saw for that matter. The correct File-o-plate is a crank bearing's best friend.

Most don't realize how much a smooth chain helps a saw live.
 
A lot of knuckleheads run their drags to low.....Not helping with the bearings....Seems to be an issue with the 460's as well. Any saw for that matter. The correct File-o-plate is a crank bearing's best friend.

I agree. Also a probable cause of extreme cases of loosening screws, in my opinion. I've been told before "knock 'um drags down and let 'er eat", but I've found that 'correctly set' works better for me. But I ain't no pro.
 
Thanks for all the help folks! I do know he has zero want to mod his 460 so im not to worried about that. As faras my 372 goes...if I were to do a dual port MM and run an 8 pin rim how would I fare? My 372 is running the 32" bar it came with and his 460 is on a 32" as well.
 
Not so sure the 8 pin would help...probably lose too much power in the cut....I would think the 8 pin would benefit the 460 a little better..
If you're not already running a full skip? I would give that a try...I run a 25"B&C 7 pin full skip on my 460....I've been wanting to try the 8 pin...just haven't had the chance yet.
 
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