Husq 372XP vs. Stihl MS460 Mag? What should be done?

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Your 460 though has extensive mods that your 372 likely doesn't have, making that comparison skewed. Both my 372 (50mm bore) and 460 have just ported cylinders set to the same squish and both have stock ignitions, mufflers, and carbs and the 372 has the edge.

My 372 has an edge over my 460s too JJ.....

Neal's 460 is one of the strongest I've done, but doesn't have the ignition advanced, and is sporting a Zama carb. There's still gains to be made on it.
 
Your 460 though has extensive mods that your 372 likely doesn't have, making that comparison skewed. Both my 372 (50mm bore) and 460 have just ported cylinders set to the same squish and both have stock ignitions, mufflers, and carbs and the 372 has the edge.

I don't disagree that the 460 is more "modded," But the difference is very pronounced. Another way to slice it is that the 372 has to make up .8hp just to break even with a stock 460...then again, you and Jasha forget more about saws while you sleep that I can ever hope to know.
 
Mastermind Worksaws
When Pie Matters

I like the new slogan almost as much as my 394​
 
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I got two 460's on the bench right now. Just got one together with a meteor kit. The other one is almost done with a new OEM mahle cylinder. One is going to Brad
Can't wait to test some ported saws on the dyno.
 
BTW, if I send you a cylinder, can you cut the squish band and base without the saw?
I picked up a used OEM 385 cylinder and wanted 220 PSI.

I will never need to apologize for that 394. It eats stuff real fast, and stuff:cheers:
 
BTW, if I send you a cylinder, can you cut the squish band and base without the saw?
I picked up a used OEM 385 cylinder and wanted 220 PSI.

I will never need to apologize for that 394. It eats stuff real fast, and stuff:cheers:

I'd need the jug and piston.
 
Saw 1 has 6hp at 9200 rpms saw 2 has 6hp at 9200rpms this means both saws have 3.425 ft-lbs of torque at 9200 rpms. Saw 1 has 3.94 ft-lb of torque at 8000 rpms wich is still 6 hp. Saw 2 has 3.75 ft-lb at 8000 rpms so it has 5.71 hp. Saw 1 has 4.50 ft-lb at 7000 rpms wich is still 6 hp. Saw 2 has 4 ft-lb of torque at 7000 rpms wich is 5.33 hp.

Saw 1 can handle a bigger bar or can run a smaller bar faster with a larger drive sprocket because it has the torque to pull it through. My 660 pulls a 36" bar with authority. My 461 will not unless you hold back on the saw.

:cheers:






A Ferrari is faster than a F250 which one is better? It all comes down to how you manage the power and what you do with the power.
 
After talking to him today his 460 is stock aside from a dual port muffler. He is also running oregon square filed chain. With my 372 and a MM and base gasket delete I doubt ill be able to compete...or will I? He said he isn't going to port his saw because he likes it as it is. I however plan on having my saw ported at some point. Will I benefit much from running the 52mm BB?
 
After talking to him today his 460 is stock aside from a dual port muffler. He is also running oregon square filed chain. With my 372 and a MM and base gasket delete I doubt ill be able to compete...or will I? He said he isn't going to port his saw because he likes it as it is. I however plan on having my saw ported at some point. Will I benefit much from running the 52mm BB?

Keep the OEM parts. While there are some pretty good AM cylinder kits out there, the OEM parts can't be bettered.
 
After talking to him today his 460 is stock aside from a dual port muffler. He is also running oregon square filed chain. With my 372 and a MM and base gasket delete I doubt ill be able to compete...or will I? He said he isn't going to port his saw because he likes it as it is. I however plan on having my saw ported at some point. Will I benefit much from running the 52mm BB?




No on the BB. Why even indulged you're buddy? Just run your saw and enjoy it. Now if you still want it ported, send it out now instead of waiting and be done with it.
 
After talking to him today his 460 is stock aside from a dual port muffler. He is also running oregon square filed chain. With my 372 and a MM and base gasket delete I doubt ill be able to compete...or will I? He said he isn't going to port his saw because he likes it as it is. I however plan on having my saw ported at some point. Will I benefit much from running the 52mm BB?

He will be tough to beat without porting, but If your also running well filed/ground square along with the base gasket And MM, you'll be right there with him at the finish. find out what size/type of wood he wants to race in. make sure your running the right sprocket for that size. Also remember you can grind or file better/sharper edges than Oregon CL comes with standard out of box. "With a lot of practice".I'd say Go ahead a Race him we are all interested how this turns out. After all you have nothing to lose as he's running the bigger saw and "Should you win." and win repeatedly however, he's going to have a lot to think about. and you wont have to listen to him brag about Magnum as much.
 
After talking to him today his 460 is stock aside from a dual port muffler. He is also running oregon square filed chain. With my 372 and a MM and base gasket delete I doubt ill be able to compete...or will I? He said he isn't going to port his saw because he likes it as it is. I however plan on having my saw ported at some point. Will I benefit much from running the 52mm BB?

A race saw and a work saw are two different animals. Both have their place, but it's not clear to me which one you want to end up with.

HedgeRow posted this to another thread:

That's the thing about a work saw... It don't have to be the absolute fastest...
Just fast enough...
It should start well, and idle right...
It should have enough snot to run a size up bar in a pinch...
The throttle response should be crisp, and it should have enough torque to stop and start the chain in the middle of a cut after knocking a couple wedges...
It should have enough speed to move through a leaning tree easily, and run a chain you got the rakers a little too low on...

Oh, and sideways balance is a plus...
 
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I offer two types of saws. work saws or race saws. no in between. if its a real work saw and not a weekend cookie cutter then it needs to last and be 100% reliable for a man to put food on the table. I wont take the chance of getting that little extra for bragging rights in my work saw. now if you want to race lets go there,no holds bared run what you brung running nitro.
 
A race saw and a work saw are two different animals. Both have their place, but it's not clear to me which one you want to end up with.

HedgeRow posted this to another thread:

That's the thing about a work saw... It don't have to be the absolute fastest...
Just fast enough...
It should start well, and idle right...
It should have enough snot to run a size up bar in a pinch...
The throttle response should be crisp, and it should have enough torque to stop and start the chain in the middle of a cut after knocking a couple wedges...
It should have enough speed to move through a leaning tree easily, and run a chain you got the rakers a little too low on...

Oh, and sideways balance is a plus...

Not too mention using as little extra fuel as possible to achieve those goals..
 

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