Husqvarna 162SE. PLEASE HELP

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bcoverss

bcoverss

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
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Location
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I have a fairly well cared for 1976 Husqvarna 162SE with a 28" bar that's been passed around in my family. It's been a life saver when we get storms and hurricanes that blow over trees down here in Florida and Georgia. It's been used to cut many oaks mostly, some camphor and to fall some big pines in this saws long life. To my knowledge the bar and chain that is on it now is only the second ever put on it. The great uncle I inherited it from knew all those details but he is no longer with us. A couple of weeks ago my brother on North Florida had a storm that blew over a 70 ft Live oak that has a trunk that is approx 80 inches across. This 80 inche section is about 25 to 30 foot in length before it branches out into the canopy. I made a lot of headway cutting up the canopy last weekend before the 105 degree heat index kicked by butt. Tired as hell I made the mistake of leaving the saw with my brother when I left since I would be coming back this weekend.:bang: He tried to sharpen the blade. I don't know what the hell he did, but now it won't cut worth a damn. Since the bar and blade that was on it is most likely a consumer low kick back I just want to replace it. I'm very good and mechanics and following directions but do not have the knowledge or experience you all have. I need help in what would be the best cutting chain for this saw and can I go with a longer bar than the 28" that is on it now? Also the current chain is a skip tooth, is it better to go with a non-skip tooth?


Plus any pointer in how to go about cutting the huge fallen trunk would be helpful. Since it's taller than me I'm a bit worried about it rolling over on me. If I sound like an idiot please forgive me as I do not have the knowledge and experience you all have. I have learned a lot reading the post on this forum and can see that your all are my best hope at help.
 
bcoverss said:
I have a fairly well cared for 1976 Husqvarna 162SE with a 28" bar that's been passed around in my family. It's been a life saver when we get storms and hurricanes that blow over trees down here in Florida and Georgia. It's been used to cut many oaks mostly, some camphor and to fall some big pines in this saws long life. To my knowledge the bar and chain that is on it now is only the second ever put on it. The great uncle I inherited it from knew all those details but he is no longer with us. A couple of weeks ago my brother on North Florida had a storm that blew over a 70 ft Live oak that has a trunk that is approx 80 inches across. This 80 inche section is about 25 to 30 foot in length before it branches out into the canopy. I made a lot of headway cutting up the canopy last weekend before the 105 degree heat index kicked by butt. Tired as hell I made the mistake of leaving the saw with my brother when I left since I would be coming back this weekend.:bang: He tried to sharpen the blade. I don't know what the hell he did, but now it won't cut worth a damn. Since the bar and blade that was on it is most likely a consumer low kick back I just want to replace it. I'm very good and mechanics and following directions but do not have the knowledge or experience you all have. I need help in what would be the best cutting chain for this saw and can I go with a longer bar than the 28" that is on it now? Also the current chain is a skip tooth, is it better to go with a non-skip tooth?


Plus any pointer in how to go about cutting the huge fallen trunk would be helpful. Since it's taller than me I'm a bit worried about it rolling over on me. If I sound like an idiot please forgive me as I do not have the knowledge and experience you all have. I have learned a lot reading the post on this forum and can see that your all are my best hope at help.
Click to expand...

Well welcome to the site, you will get a lot of info and lots of suggestions with a question like that on here. You might as well go out and get a BIG chainsaw right off the bat. Something 100 -137 cc either already modded or be ready to mod it yourself.
That said your 162 will be worked hard to cut that monster tree up and even worse that you have limited experience cutting wood of this size. The 28" bar would be about as long as that saw should be subjected to with skip chain only, full comp in hardwood would drag the engine and clutch much too hard.The best bar and chain setup would most likely be an 3/8' pitch chisel tooth cutter in skip tooth arrangement. All chain like Oregon , Stihl , Carleton would be fine and a sprocket tip bar of the same gauge as the chain. Any good saw dealer or small engine shop should be able to outfit you with a suitable setup.
Pioneerguy600
 
After re reading your original post I take back what I said concerning the 162, it is not big enough to cut up an 80" diameter oak with a 28" bar, you really need a bigger saw with a longer bar around 42" running skip chain. It may be better to get someone with a big saw and long bar that has some experience cutting large diameter wood like this monster up for you. Those blocks could roll and crush you and for sure the trunk would have to be supported in such a way that it does not jamb the chainsaw bar by dropping or rolling slightly either way. There would be a lot of work and planning needed to cut that tree up by yourself.
Pioneerguy600
 
This doesn't sound like a "do it yourself" project.You'll need help,and plenty of it.I don't think anyone here can talk you through it unless you give some information about what other equipment you have available.That's along the line of trucks,tractors,backhoes and the like.You'll need some real muscle to deal with something that large.
I would suggest you call around and try to locate a sawmill that would take it off your hands.
 
As much as I'd love to use this as an excuse to by a monster big saw, I can't. Money is tight and my current job will end in 10 months when we officially go bankrupt. I'm praying it doesn't but times are tough for me and my family right now. My brothers not much better off. Lot of health problems. Between us we have a 2500 chevy dually, and two 4x4 2dr Tahoes one with a 350 gas engine the other with a 6.5 turbo diesel. Both have 9500 pound winches. No tractors or backhoes.
 
I really don`t want to encourage you to do this job on your own but if you feel you have to then you will need some flat sills like railroad ties and some extra blocking, a bunch of hardwood wedges and a small hydraulic bottle jack all come in handy. I like to set up the flat sills on either side, even better if you can run one or more through under the trunk. You can then block and wedge the trunk to prevent settling or rolling as the saw cuts down through the trunk, once the cut is completed the trucks with the wenches can be attached to the cut off piece and roll it out from the rest of the tree trunk. Much easier with a boom truck/crane or big piece of excavation gear like the excavator I sometimes run but it can be done by cutting one block off at a time and just roll it out of the way, you have to exercise caution and stay well clear of those big blocks while rolling them.
Pioneerguy600
 
Unfortuntly it's 80" through the middle. We couldn't find any mill that would come get it. I hate to see it go to waste. Most of the trees grown in FL & GA are for plup so these big oaks just don't have anywhere to go.
 
Thats a big piece of oak but you can do it with a 28" with skip but it will take a long time.You just have to figure out the cuts,maybe like some people section up bigger rounds with the chainsaw so they are more managable.Bring it over to my place and I will give it a go:hmm3grin2orange:Just be carefull and do it like your playing chess.Oh yeah the GTG is a good idea too.
 
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Maybe you could get this guy to drop by.
 
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This is the actual owner,the other pic is one of Edisto's creations.(Bob,of the Enzyte commercials.)
 
Himwill that is a very generous offer. Very generous, Tenn is a long way from here. I'll need to check with my brother first but I think he'd be ok with that. He's got a couple extra beds. I wasn't expecting this, I didn't come here to beg. Since I have a long weekend next weekend I may still see what I can get done with my 28". I'm thinking about cutting 28" triangle shaped pieced off from the root end once those two pieces are off I should have approx 25" to 35" section in the center. I could then cut it down the center and get it off with to straight cuts. If that makes since. Then I'll keep repeating that slowly eating away at it.
 
I hope I didn't give you the impression that I thought you were begging for anything.The get together idea stems from the fact that a lot of us have some "under utilized" toys.A get together is an opportunity to meet some of the other guys posting here and in addition "play with our toys".If a little work gets done,so much the better.How's the weather in north Florida in October?I would think about ideal for a project like this.Where is the place anyway?
 
Hi BC,
Like Jerry said, 80 inches is going to be hard to handle or even see over. Maybe run an ad on craigslist or free cycle offering this wood to someone who can use it? You may find someone local who runs a chainsaw mill who would like to have the wood for furniture or a building.

If you decide to work on it, make sure you set your sills so the blocks cannot roll until YOU want them to. Buy yourself a couple of new full chisel chains and start cutting pieces off that you can handle. If your not sure of your chain size stop at a local saw shop where they can make you a couple of loops. Maybe the shop will have a big rental to offer?

Mix your fuel with a little extra oil because of the length of the cuts. Keep your chains sharp and if your not sure how to sharpen them, take them to a local saw shop and ask them to do them for you. I would want two or three spares. Start early and finish early so you dont end up in the Horsepistol with heat stroke.

Best wishes,
Bob
 
Do you have a Home Depot round? Would renting a 6401 help you with a little more cc`s. And it should have the same bar mount to fit the longer bar from your 162. Just a thought.
 
Still more questions.You said it blew down,you didn't say if it was a dead tree(hard as a rock) or a live tree when it went down.If it was alive and tipped over,are some of the roots still "feeding" it and keeping it alive.If so,you want to work it from the top down and leave the butt section for last.Going at it that way,you will be dealing with "green" wood,so to speak,better to work with than dry.The size and scale of the project,especially with only two working,means it could take quite a while to whittle it down.Better it stays "green" as long as it can.
Do you have any pictures,from what I've seen of Live Oaks,you guys just getting the top worked up was a big task.
 
Yes it was blown down in high winds. It was a live tree, but not sure how healthy as the roots broke away from the trunk. First oak I've seen blown over that didn't pull up a lot of roots. I have a couple of photos one sort of shows the base. Not sure anything is feeding it anymore. It's been down 2 weeks so it's still green, not dried out and hard as a rock. My brothers place is outside Lake City, you'll find it on the map where I-75 and I-10 cross.

The 6401 that was mentioned I rent from Home Depot is a 64cc saw from what they told me. My Husqvarna 162SE is a 61.5cc saw. Is an extra 2.5cc's really going to make the kind of difference worth me renting it?

Here's a link to a photo of the tree before most of the work. I couldn't get it to upload here so use this link.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm76/bcoverss/SANY0115.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm76/bcoverss/SANY0115.jpg
 

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