Husqvarna 162se worth rebuilding?

[Slice107]

Hello, I have a 162se that has a bit of history in my family. It was my dads first saw when we moved here, he bought it used around 2000. About 10 years ago he gave it to a friend that was helping him, since my dad now has 2 husky 372. Last year, his friend gave it to me because it was old and didn't work anymore. I had a look, seems to me either bad crank seal or bad case gasket. I checked with a local shop, and they agree, but I haven't done a vacuum check to confirm. The saw is rough overall. Runs but has got the typical air leak symptoms. The local shop said it's not worth rebuilding. And I kinda agree, but I already got the saw. I do believe I did remove muffler and piston was scuffed on exhaust side but no scoring. Just looked like a hard 30+ years of life to me.


I currently have a STIHL 028 and a STIHL ms500i and a husky 288 that are my usable saws. I also have a pioneer p25 I like for small stuff, but it runs funny sometimes. And a husky 185? That rattles my bones and teeth loose.


I like the feel of the saw and I find the 028 is good in softwood, but a little more power would be nice, and I feel this saw would fill that role well.

 

[irhunter]

Hello, I have a 162se that has a bit of history in my family. It was my dads first saw when we moved here.

Everyone feels differently about the stuff which comes to us from our relatives. I would sure like to own my Grandfather's saw, knife, rifle, shotgun. I do have his snowshoes and few other things.

I would hope, if you don't fix the saw, that you contact all your relatives...looking for someone who may want to do so.

Roy

 

[82F100SWB]

Parts avalibility for that chassis is quite good, you should have no issues getting it back up and running properly. While not available in north america, 2 versions of that chassis are still in production, the 61 and 272.

 

[GenXer]

I have a 162se here from 1978. It still cuts firewood every year. I'd fix it if it was here and had the same story behind it.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

The 162 is a excellent saw definitely worth fixing. I’d bet money the case gasket is not the source of the leak. Replace the crank seals, o rings, x ring, carb kit, fuel hose, fuel filter, and spark plug. It will live again and probably outlast you.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If you were me.....
I would think about selling the 028 and 185CD bone shaker, invest that into repairing Dad's old 162SE.
You have the reasoning and sentimental value sorted, almost sounds like you have already convinced yourself.

The 162 is the birth mother of the Husqvarna 2## series saws that legends were made of- fairly old school technology compared to some more modern stuff, but no slouch.
Early examples had the screw in the middle of the top cover. They were available here either unbraked plain clutch cover, or metal flag brake (you wont find new brake bands for those). Magnesium tank = harder to find fine thread AV mounts. Twin thin ring pistons are impossible to find rings for.
These were 48mm closed port saws, Husqvarna dropped that top end when the 266 came to be- but Jonsered carried it on in the 630 throughout the production run- so 630's become your donor saw of choice.

End of the day, sit down, draw up a list, make your decision- your saw, your money, your decision.
But if you were going to rebuild- don't do so half arsed, take your time, do it well and do it properly, build a saw you can pass on to the next generation of your family.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

If you were me.....
I would think about selling the 028 and 185CD bone shaker, invest that into repairing Dad's old 162SE.
You have the reasoning and sentimental value sorted, almost sounds like you have already convinced yourself.

The 162 is the birth mother of the Husqvarna 2## series saws that legends were made of- fairly old school technology compared to some more modern stuff, but no slouch.
Early examples had the screw in the middle of the top cover. They were available here either unbraked plain clutch cover, or metal flag brake (you wont find new brake bands for those). Magnesium tank = harder to find fine thread AV mounts. Twin thin ring pistons are impossible to find rings for.
These were 48mm closed port saws, Husqvarna dropped that top end when the 266 came to be- but Jonsered carried it on in the 630 throughout the production run- so 630's become your donor saw of choice.

End of the day, sit down, draw up a list, make your decision- your saw, your money, your decision.
But if you were going to rebuild- don't do so half arsed, take your time, do it well and do it properly, build a saw you can pass on to the next generation of your family.

Well said.

 

[ammoaddict]

If you were me.....
I would think about selling the 028 and 185CD bone shaker, invest that into repairing Dad's old 162SE.
You have the reasoning and sentimental value sorted, almost sounds like you have already convinced yourself.

The 162 is the birth mother of the Husqvarna 2## series saws that legends were made of- fairly old school technology compared to some more modern stuff, but no slouch.
Early examples had the screw in the middle of the top cover. They were available here either unbraked plain clutch cover, or metal flag brake (you wont find new brake bands for those). Magnesium tank = harder to find fine thread AV mounts. Twin thin ring pistons are impossible to find rings for.
These were 48mm closed port saws, Husqvarna dropped that top end when the 266 came to be- but Jonsered carried it on in the 630 throughout the production run- so 630's become your donor saw of choice.

End of the day, sit down, draw up a list, make your decision- your saw, your money, your decision.
But if you were going to rebuild- don't do so half arsed, take your time, do it well and do it properly, build a saw you can pass on to the next generation of your family.

Very informative post.

 

[Slice107]

Thanks everyone. I think I will keep it and fix it up. I rebuilt the 185 as well, it has a busted case where the bar stud goes. It's all brand new. It was my grandpas saw. Same as the 288 it was his too. The 028 was the first "real" saw I ever ran. I don't think I can get rid of it TBH haha. The only saw that doesn't mean anything to me is the pioneer and the 500i. I like both, but I think if I had to sell any, it would be those. The pioneer I found at the dump and replaced plug and fuel line. Still missing the air filter but mehhh...

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks everyone. I think I will keep it and fix it up. I rebuilt the 185 as well, it has a busted case where the bar stud goes. It's all brand new. It was my grandpas saw. Same as the 288 it was his too. The 028 was the first "real" saw I ever ran. I don't think I can get rid of it TBH haha. The only saw that doesn't mean anything to me is the pioneer and the 500i. I like both, but I think if I had to sell any, it would be those. The pioneer I found at the dump and replaced plug and fuel line. Still missing the air filter but mehhh...

Yep, keep the 185 if it has history for your family, then you have a saw (two) owned by your Grandpa, one by your Dad and then the 500i represents you- so you can pass the bundle on to your son.......

Check the insides of the mag tank on the 162- make sure it isnt mag rotting or has a powdery build up inside. Might need the bit of fuel and BB treatment, maybe even new tank liner emulsion.
Early 162's had magnesium starter covers with 3 screws- later ones plastic covers and 4 screws that were not as robust.
A braked cover for the clutch off a 61-272 should bolt straight up to a 162 chassis- but if you have the muffler that has the two holes in the deflector- better to try for a metal flag brake than the melty plastic version (or change the deflector) but the metal flag brake looks more correct on a 162.

 

[Slice107]

Yep, keep the 185 if it has history for your family, then you have a saw (two) owned by your Grandpa, one by your Dad and then the 500i represents you- so you can pass the bundle on to your son.......

Check the insides of the mag tank on the 162- make sure it isnt mag rotting or has a powdery build up inside. Might need the bit of fuel and BB treatment, maybe even new tank liner emulsion.
Early 162's had magnesium starter covers with 3 screws- later ones plastic covers and 4 screws that were not as robust.
A braked cover for the clutch off a 61-272 should bolt straight up to a 162 chassis- but if you have the muffler that has the two holes in the deflector- better to try for a metal flag brake than the melty plastic version (or change the deflector) but the metal flag brake looks more correct on a 162.

Mine has the metal brake now, but I think the band is broke. Pretty sure mine is mag starter cover but thought it had 4 screws?? Could be worn, and I think tank is fine other than fuel line, little squishy. Like I said, It's not pretty, but I did have it running. Also, mine does have the single screw in the air filter cover. We have a johnsered 625 or 630 case/tank here, and it matches darn near perfect with the husky. Thought about using the top cover and air filter cover from that, think the husky one is broken.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Not 100% sure, but the early 162 as you have with the central stud top cylinder mount does not have the edge of case mounting points for the later style top cover and certainly not for the 630/625 Jonsered style stepped stud top cover.
If you wanted a plastic tank and newer top cover- use Husqvarna stuff- you may have to drill and tap a front mounting hole for the top cover and will have no issues trying to like up a Husqvarna half wrap bar on a Jonsered tank- they look pretty similar- but they are awkwardly different enough to look bodged! Plus mixed red and orange major components just turns your old classic into Redneck Trailer trash.

 

[Slice107]

Yaaaa. I went and got some pics, ill post in a minute. Mine has the outside screws as well as the top centre one for the cylinder cover. I wouldn't mix the red and orange but thought about mixing the orange and black. I know some 266?? Came like that, and I thought it looked nice.

 

[Slice107]

Here are the pictures of this old, tired saw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Not too much looks too rough on that saw.

I should have been more precise in my explanation regarding the fixing points- the 162 early has the two rear same as the latter ones, but the central stud off the cylinder holds the front of the engine/airbox cover. You are missing the front left side case hole that would line up with the 61-272 type top cover of the later 162 that does not have the central cylinder stud (roughly the same place as the top left recoil starter bolt.)

You mentioned the 630/625 tank earlier- that would be red.

The top cover of the Jonsered will take some butchery to mount up there- but if you feel you must. The 266's were always orange- the 61's had a grey/black cover in the middle period of their lives.

You could always just fix up the Jonsered as well- they are an as good of a saw as the 162 if it is a 630- same as a 61 if it is a 625.

 

[Slice107]

The answered is a 625 also in those pics. It's rough too, missing the whole top end. No idea where it went. No idea on its life. I just found it in our garage and always liked the look of it. By what I said, ill just leave the 162 and not mess with covers and such.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The answered is a 625 also in those pics. It's rough too, missing the whole top end. No idea where it went. No idea on its life. I just found it in our garage and always liked the look of it. By what I said, ill just leave the 162 and not mess with covers and such.

Turn the 625 into a 670 then and fill a gap in your line up- as long as the bottom end checks out as good.
The 630 impulses through the manifold block like the 162- 61 to 272 type saws, the 625 and 670 has an impulse tube line.

 

[82F100SWB]

The 625 and 670 intake components can be difficult to come by, if it is missing the intake tract as well as the top end, by far the easiest route parts wise would be to go to a Husky top end. I'd personally go 268XP.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The 625 and 670 intake components can be difficult to come by, if it is missing the intake tract as well as the top end, by far the easiest route parts wise would be to go to a Husky top end. I'd personally go 268XP.

True that- but it was only mentioned missing the top end, not the intake tract. If that is gone as well- then yes, 268 and associated intake is a good option if you can live without the high idle setting if you have to use the Husqvarna carb as well.