Husqvarna 2100 Serial Number

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ochoice

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Hi,

I see quite a bit of info on this site about decoding Husqvarna serial numbers. I reviewed them, but couldn't find any that described the scheme on my 2100CD, I even checked the IPL's on the Husqvarna UK site without success.

As the attached picture shows, the SN seems to be
2991 029324

Any insight into how to determine the year of manufacture would be appreciated.

Dan
 
may be able to date the saw from the piston.... that is if its the original. a few other small things may give away, like if it has a big av mount out the front to the feeling dawg.

post up some pics, theres a few guys here that will give you an idea.. roughly

Serg
 
Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. I have posted some more pics. If anyone can offer some suggestions on what the age of the saw is, that'd be great. (The threaded rod is where I attach my homebrew alaska mill.)

Reason is that it died on me last week and the shop told me I need a new cylinder head and piston. So apparently I need to know the year of manufacture.

I've had the saw for less than 5 years, no history on it before that time.
 
my guess is pre 1984...

if you do need a new piston a cylinder, good luck! if you find some let me know because im looking too.

i dont think the year of piston cylinder will matter, they changed the piston window ports slightly but that wont effect anything.

if you find a new thin ring piston. i will give my first born for it!!!!

great saw and good luck

Serg
 
Ochoice

What shop did you bring your saw too? It doesn't look like it needs a new piston to me but that doesn't mean too much.

Can you elaborate on it's "death"?

There are a couple of us in the Lower Mainland with resurrected 2100's, we might be able to help you out.

Randy
 
one of my 2100's starts with the same serial 2991 ##### and another has 1984 stamped on it.

the first piston ran for about 1 year, then they changed the part number in 1979. it stayed the same from then on, only difference being A, B or C types and of course the thin ring piston part number.

Serg
 
Guys,

I really appreciate all the help on this one.

I have a 36" chainbar on this that I use for milling up local wood, mostly city trees that are cut down, and the occasional cedar that drifts onto a local beach. The saw has worked like a charm for me for several years, I took it in for a 'pre-season tune up' last week and it came back dead.

They told that the damage was on the intake side of the piston as was mentioned, but they attributed it to water rather than dirt. Also that the cylinder head is chipped at the intake, though to be honest I don't see that.

The shop I have been taking it to is Point Grey Sales and Service in Vancouver. The guy there is pretty old-school but good, an old hippie/faller from way back I am sure. In the past I have preferred Pacific Falling though, but they seem to have gone belly up last month. I also have called Joe's in Langley, and Walker's in Nanaimo. I'd be inclined to send it over to Walker's if I can find the parts, and if they ever call me back . . .

Can someone elaborate on the difference between A B and C types and what the thin ring business is? What am I looking at for mine? I do see pistons available on the internet, not sure if they are the right type though. I have not seen any cylinder heads for sale. I guess buying a complete used unit is an option.

I've attached some better pictures, further comments are welcome.

Randy, thanks for the offer of help. I feel like I need a lifeline right now! I have enough invested in the saw, the bar, the chains, the mill, that I am reluctant to abandon it and buy something new. I'd sure prefer to get this fixed up.
 
2100

OChoice,

I haven't personally used Point Grey but a fellow saw owner lives in the area and has used them in the past with success.

I would be tempted to pull the rings off your piston (without breaking them) clean up the inside of the cylinder with a light oil and 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to remove the marks. Do the same with the piston without rounding over the ring groves, then place the rings inside the cylinder so they sit level and measure the gap in the ring joint and make sure it isn't bigger than 1.0 mm. If all proves to be good assemble the saw and test for compression if you can. If not, I'd recommend you bring the saw to A1 Allpoints in New West and hand it over to John. I find out of all the saw shops in the LML John has the most interest in helping guys fix older saws and his prices are fair.

Joe's in Langley is good for ordering parts and charging a fair price but I don't find they're too interested in fixing older saws.

I think Pacific Falling Contractors moved to Burnaby just off Kingsway and they charge too much and aren't that helpful. (My opinion)

Pacific Arborsits in North Vancouver are very helpful and Nikko (on this site) uses them for everything, even his 2100.

I'll see if NIkko can chime in and help out too, he has quite a bit of experience with a 2100 and shops in the LML and on the Island.
 

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