Husqvarna 353 etech problem

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It has the metal clamp.

I'd read about changing out the muffler, figured I'd use it stock until it needed work then modify it, that time may be now :)
 
I'll try that- had problems with my old 55 Rancher a while back where the head studs kept loosening.
It's a strange running condition to me, starts readily enough every time, idles but is rough and no matter what position the throttle's in doesn't change speed, the clutch never engages, eventually it'll backfire and die, but will then start fine.
 
i'll bet its an air leak of some kind... check the decomp, cylinder head bolts ... intake, when the saw is running, spray some carb cleaner around the intake clamp

There is nothing in his description of the issue that indicates an air leak - it is much more likely that it is about the coil or the fuel supply system - unless it is the top end itself. Cat mufflers make them run hot, which isn't good at all..
 
Yeah, the way/timing of it failing makes me keep coming back to the coil.
The muffler has certainly gotten very hot a number of times.
At least this prompted me to fix my 394XP so I'm not without a saw now, but the 394's kinda overkill for most of what I do :)
 
Tried those suggestions, no change. I ordered a coil, how that does it.
As for a non-cat muffler, any reason not to get a cheap aftermarket one?
 
Tried those suggestions, no change. I ordered a coil, how that does it.
As for a non-cat muffler, any reason not to get a cheap aftermarket one?

I ordered a cheap muffler from eBay. Figures for $7 how bad could it be. The seam welds weren't complete, could see light shining through them, and the exhaust hole was smaller than stock. If the stock muffler is an A I'd give the AM muffler a B-.

Almost all the pictures form different ebay sellers look the same. The only one that looks slightly better is from HLSupply, looks like it could be B/B+, maybe. But they want ~$30!

When I have the cash I'm going to buy an OEM muffler from Bailey's. I'm using the AM muffler now but I don't love it. It feels cheap.
 
I ordered a cheap muffler from eBay. Figures for $7 how bad could it be. The seam welds weren't complete, could see light shining through them, and the exhaust hole was smaller than stock. If the stock muffler is an A I'd give the AM muffler a B-.

Almost all the pictures form different ebay sellers look the same. The only one that looks slightly better is from HLSupply, looks like it could be B/B+, maybe. But they want ~$30!

When I have the cash I'm going to buy an OEM muffler from Bailey's. I'm using the AM muffler now but I don't love it. It feels cheap.
The $28-30 am mufflers are better than the cheaper ones. But none are as nice as oem.
 
Is throttle linkage hooked up? Do butterflies respond to inputs? Seems odd that throttle will do nothing, if coil is bad it should fall on its face when opened. Also coils tend to show their problems when they warm up. My experience is they work or don't, or weak spark. Double your gap and see if it sparks.
 
Hey. I was sent the wrong coil, after like a month, so I haven't made any progress there.
With all this extra time to think about it and mess with it I'm starting to doubt the coil theory too, since it does in fact run, and consistently at that.
I've got a carb rebuild kit coming and will take another crack at it from that angle.
I did get the new muffler though, looks fine; are there any recommended settings to set the needles at to get it going, or just richer then tune it by ear? I'm going to leave the stock muffler on until I get it going right, one less variable.

Got tired of hauling the 394XP around, so now I'm using my old Canadian made Homelite XL1, it runs great!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top