Husqvarna 445 vs 346xp

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you shoulda sacked up at the local dealer and bargained for a few more chains, case, oil, whathaveya, etc...

346xp.

they're REALLY gonna laugh when you bring that toy in to get fixed!

just kidding, sorta. best of luck.

i'da just bought a box store saw if I was gonna go that route.
 
you shoulda sacked up at the local dealer and bargained for a few more chains, case, oil, whathaveya, etc...
Well, I tried...silly me thinking that if I was to suck up I might be able to get MSRP on a saw...but they have their own system where they charge you for service, and in a way hold the customer hostage to pay for service to buy from them. I'm sure they take great care of their equipment they sell, so there is probably some sense to all of it, but it only works well when the customers are willing to pay the "tax" of doing business with them. This is not to mention they will be charging over MSRP for parts as well, nature of the beast...they include the "1st service" at a reduced rate in their "plan". They would also sell me the case for $35 vs. $45, when I buy the saw from them. Probably find a case used, IMO. But the point is that if your willing to buy service from them, and bring your saw in for regular service, sure it will run good for the time you own it...I hope I can do better than using unmixed fuel, or letter the oil run dry, or any other number of things that cause most of these saws to fail, at least I would like to think so...In that regard, do I need their service?
they're REALLY gonna laugh when you bring that toy in to get fixed!

just kidding, sorta. best of luck.
Ok, and I'm sorta kidding also when I say they can pound sand.:laugh:
i'da just bought a box store saw if I was gonna go that route.
May have made more sense for me, quite honestly, but at the end of the day I'm looking for what is the better tool for the job. I want to cut accurate joinery, not hog off wooden nickels at the races...if I feel cheated, I'll go buy another saw...I can just print more money...

I am convinced that the 346xp is one fine saw, just that it is way too much power for what I need, and lighter will be better when I'm 10-12 feet off the ground cutting the 2nd floor joist mortises...A lighter saw would also be preferred when the log home is delivered and reassembled on my property.

Regards,
TT
 
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$489????????????????//

Ok, you guys confirmed what I suspected, I was leaning towards the 346xp as it just seems to be an all around better tool.

I noticed the e-tech models, and thanks for mentioning that, Urbicide, as I can live without the catalytic environmental stuff...in fact it seems they charge a $40 premium to neuter the saw...hmmm...that doesn't seem like a good investment. I'm going to be doing my share for the environment by building with logs, less carbon footprint to manufacture/build.

If I was completely broke, I might think about the 445 more, but even though I'm not working at the moment, I am not broke either. Just trying to spend my severance wisely to try and get the home built.

I see the MSRP is $489, is it possible to get any discount off the MSRP? As I mentioned, the shop closest to me seems to add a premium on top of the MSRP. I will need to talk to them to see if they can at least do MSRP, I mean in this economy if they can't do MSRP for me, WTF...:buttkick:

Is it worthwhile to buy local, or should I look for the best deal online? The web has changed the way we buy...but I want to be able to get service on the saw also...

Regards,
TT

they are $579 here now.
 
Sounds like you made the right choice

I would normally encourage you to buy from a local dealer but if you feel like a "hostage" and they sell over MSRP then you should buy online. Parts and labor should be covered under warranty so all you will pay is freight/shipping. The "we only service what we sell" is a double edged sword. My local dealer performed warranty service on a saw I didn't buy from him. He charged me nothing and had the saw fixed in 2 weeks. The next saw I buy will come from him.
 
ms 200 rear handle is one sweet little saw.

I guess I'll have to see if they ship to me (possibility) and/or if I have problems with it. I think it would do fine for me, seeing that I don't actually need to cut firewood with it, or anything like that. I will be using it mostly for the joinery on the home I'm building. I've read some favorable comments towards the 336 on AS. Time will tell...

Scott,

I think it depends on what one needs. It is a lot of power for what I need, although the 346xp would probably do all of my cutting that I would ever need. The 336, if they deliver it, will do good for me also. If they'll ship to me, and if I blow it up, I'll get another one. :dunno:

I'm sure the MS200 rear handle would do fine also, albeit at double the cost of the 336. Maybe a case where it's worth it? :dunno: (seems a lot I dunno;-)

Cheers,
TT


i'd buy it over the 336 any day.even for the price difference.

i'd still get the 346xp for what you're doing.it has a bit more grunt than the 200. 200 is a great saw in a light package though.i love using either of them.
 
I would normally encourage you to buy from a local dealer but if you feel like a "hostage" and they sell over MSRP then you should buy online. Parts and labor should be covered under warranty so all you will pay is freight/shipping. The "we only service what we sell" is a double edged sword. My local dealer performed warranty service on a saw I didn't buy from him. He charged me nothing and had the saw fixed in 2 weeks. The next saw I buy will come from him.

THAT is the reason dealers should work on ANY saw. Plus, don't they get paid from the manufacturer for warranty work?
 
THAT is the reason dealers should work on ANY saw. Plus, don't they get paid from the manufacturer for warranty work?
Apparently not as the dealers don't seem to want to work on just any saw purchased over the internet. Maybe that is how they keep sales up, not sure.

Kinda moot, they won't sell me most of the saws I'm interested in within California anyway...although the 346xp is available, they sell it for $529 which MSRPs for $489. So they get an extra $40 right off the start.
 
Apparently not as the dealers don't seem to want to work on just any saw purchased over the internet. Maybe that is how they keep sales up, not sure.

Kinda moot, they won't sell me most of the saws I'm interested in within California anyway...although the 346xp is available, they sell it for $529 which MSRPs for $489. So they get an extra $40 right off the start.

That's what I don't get. Husky's MSRP are usually more than their competitors-Stihl, Dolmar, to start with. I can understand that most Husky dealers (not internet)these days want to stay close to MSRP to keep it fair and still make money. So they usually throw in an extra chain or something.
If a person has their heart set on a particular model saw--they shouldn't be forced to pay a premium or experience arrogant/poor service.
 
That's what I don't get. Husky's MSRP are usually more than their competitors-Stihl, Dolmar, to start with.
For me, Husky is in the middle, and Stihl is always the most expensive in comparable saws, IMO.

It is also interesting to note that the same dealer is also a Stihl dealer. Coincidentally, you can buy Stihl at a discount for available product. NOT the MS200 rear handle, in Cali that is considered a dangerous weapon. :mad:

Neither are the Husky rear handle 336/339xp. If I want that type of saw, I don't have a real option, I have to go grey market. The internet is the new age grey market.:cheers: Do it from your home. :cheers: But you have to wait for it to arrive...:cry:

I guess that should be cause for me to stay away from those saws...but I'm stubborn in that way I 'spose...:blob5:

Regards,
TT
 
i noticed the 260 is only about 1lb heavier and more power by a fair bit then the 445 saw
 
I'm just curious which Husky dealer your log guy uses for his service?

Also, have you searched beyond your area for other Husky dealers?

The Husky dealer closest to me is 20+ miles in a small town which is at least a 30 minute drive. The next closest are the next county, then several counties away, including the bordering states.

There are plenty of Stihl and somewhat leaner offerings for Dolmar dealers in my area.

Give that 336 a workout and let us know how it performs for you. Maintain it well and I bet it will be all you need to finish your home. Now, if you were putting it through other uses day in and day out, I'd bet you would want an XP pro model.
 
I'm just curious which Husky dealer your log guy uses for his service?
Funny you ask. I was only in WV for about 4 days, but he took me to the guy he gets parts from. He takes me to this place in Weston, WV and the building is incredibly old. Pretty tattered brick building with a bunch of broken down lawn mowers and chainsaws laying around. Amazing plaster medallions on the ceiling, a most fascinating place...cool history out there...

He ordered some type of oiler, it looked like a rod with a plastic spline which lubricates the 345. He said that's the one weak point with those saws. He's had them for about 3 years with little problems. He has about 6 of them. They were using them constantly when I was there, all crosscutting was done with the chainsaw. All ripping done on a diesel band mill built for him by an Amish guy in Ontario. Very nice mill.
Also, have you searched beyond your area for other Husky dealers?
Not yet, but I will. I need to get the saw first. It's in transit. I would like to change over the bar/chain to 1/4", trying to figure that out now...
The Husky dealer closest to me is 20+ miles in a small town which is at least a 30 minute drive. The next closest are the next county, then several counties away, including the bordering states.
I would drive that far to visit a quality dealer.
Give that 336 a workout and let us know how it performs for you. Maintain it well and I bet it will be all you need to finish your home. Now, if you were putting it through other uses day in and day out, I'd bet you would want an XP pro model.
Exactly my thinking also, and the log craftsman I'm working with. The 345s he uses are not pro models, and they work the crap out of them. I will definitely keep you posted, you know how it goes...no pics didn't happen...

I have a lot of tools, I have to watch myself with chainsaws, they seem addictive...I'm surprised more of you folks around here are not interested in building log homes. I bet a lot of you can even find free timber to cut down...I just paid a good chunk for 2 truckloads of eastern white pine.

Cheers,
TT
 
i noticed the 260 is only about 1lb heavier and more power by a fair bit then the 445 saw

The MS260 cost about the same as the 346xp (in the US that is - it is much cheaper than the 346xp here, more in line with the 450)......
 
Funny you ask. I was only in WV for about 4 days, but he took me to the guy he gets parts from. He takes me to this place in Weston, WV and the building is incredibly old. Pretty tattered brick building with a bunch of broken down lawn mowers and chainsaws laying around. Amazing plaster medallions on the ceiling, a most fascinating place...cool history out there...

He ordered some type of oiler, it looked like a rod with a plastic spline which lubricates the 345. He said that's the one weak point with those saws. He's had them for about 3 years with little problems. He has about 6 of them. They were using them constantly when I was there, all crosscutting was done with the chainsaw. All ripping done on a diesel band mill built for him by an Amish guy in Ontario. Very nice mill.

Not yet, but I will. I need to get the saw first. It's in transit. I would like to change over the bar/chain to 1/4", trying to figure that out now...

I would drive that far to visit a quality dealer.

Exactly my thinking also, and the log craftsman I'm working with. The 345s he uses are not pro models, and they work the crap out of them. I will definitely keep you posted, you know how it goes...no pics didn't happen...

I have a lot of tools, I have to watch myself with chainsaws, they seem addictive...I'm surprised more of you folks around here are not interested in building log homes. I bet a lot of you can even find free timber to cut down...I just paid a good chunk for 2 truckloads of eastern white pine.

Cheers,
TT

Im actually in process of building smoke sauna on my yard :cheers:
Got the trees cut and waiting at local sawyer for him to saw them into 4" slabs which i will use to make it...
 
Im actually in process of building smoke sauna on my yard :cheers:
Got the trees cut and waiting at local sawyer for him to saw them into 4" slabs which i will use to make it...
blis,

Actually I am very much into sauna, although it is not very popular in the U.S. I like the wet style, I think that is what you have in Finland.

I ordered 2 trailers of pine, 16" tips - 24" butts. By the time I use the little 336 on them, the sides will be milled off and they will only be 8" thick. They will still be pretty hefty.

A sauna is a cool project...actually it's a hot project, but that is cool in itself.:clap::cheers:
 
The MS260 cost about the same as the 346xp (in the US that is - it is much cheaper than the 346xp here, more in line with the 450)......

In Sweden you get a MS260 for 4990 SEK. A NE346 is around 9000 SEK.
A 450 will probably be somewhere in the MS260 price range.
 
blis,

Actually I am very much into sauna, although it is not very popular in the U.S. I like the wet style, I think that is what you have in Finland.

I ordered 2 trailers of pine, 16" tips - 24" butts. By the time I use the little 336 on them, the sides will be milled off and they will only be 8" thick. They will still be pretty hefty.

A sauna is a cool project...actually it's a hot project, but that is cool in itself.:clap::cheers:

You could build your own smoke sauna from the leftover slabs :greenchainsaw:

Just mill them leftovers into 4" thick or so, 8" is way overkill for sauna...


My own trees are just alot smaller than yours :cry: Biggest one are probaply around 14"-16" from the butt... But yeah, they will still make fine smoke sauna just takes more logs than it would if i had bigger ones...

edit, yuo might want to check out this thread http://www.miestenhuone.fi/componen...nc,view/id,118/catid,19/limit,6/limitstart,6/ ... Its a finnish forum and that guy there is building smoke sauna, its all in finnish but has tons of great pics :p
 
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You could build your own smoke sauna from the leftover slabs
Actually there will not be that much left over. While I am buying over 10k board feet, there is really not that much waste. In fact, I'm calculating the timber savings from the windows and doors and cutting to size, otherwise you loose 20%...:cry:

20% would be a lot of timber in this case.

But I could always get more timber for a sauna! :cheers:

Cheers,
TT
 
The little beast in action...

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