Husqvarna 450

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MickeyS

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Long Island NY
I just ordered a new Husqvarna 450 to do a tree that fell in my neighbor's yard as a result of Sandy here on Long Island and I need some tips on how to begin the job. It's my first time using a chain saw also, so any tips on how to prevent kickbacks will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
never go at the tree with the top front edge of the chain, go slow let the saw cut the tree, no need to saw back and fourth like with a manual trim saw. always use mixed fuel/89 octane or higher gas, keep all equipment clean and wear PPE. good luck.
 
Avoid anything touching the nose of the bar to avoid kick back and pics would be a big help is it a leaner,uprooted,broke off half way up?
 
I just ordered a new Husqvarna 450 to do a tree that fell in my neighbor's yard as a result of Sandy here on Long Island and I need some tips on how to begin the job. It's my first time using a chain saw also, so any tips on how to prevent kickbacks will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

First thing I would suggest getting safety equipment and some lessons or pointers from a pro. Saw and trees can be replaced but body parts can not
 
Agree with hdbill. Also always be aware or your surroundings and concious of where the tip of the bar is at all times. Never be in a rush. What looks like could be a bad or dangerous cut, probably is. Look for stress in the tree or limbs. Above all just use your head. Common sense is your best friend.
 
Besides the info about the protective equipment, I would suggest you take a close look at the first cut or two you make. Grab up a handful of chips and put them in a bag. After you have cut for 30 minutes, compare the chips. Then again a little later. What I'm getting to is that as the chain dulls the size of the chip will get smaller. Don't wait until your saw is throwing sawdust to stop and sharpen the chain. Many newbs burn up good saws by forcing to to cut with a dull chain. It might be a good idea to buy a spare chain to reduce the temptation to keep going so you can get finished. Stop and sharpen or change. There are a couple of things in your situation that will dull a chain fast: buried metal and plunging the bar tip into the dirt. The first one is often beyond your control; the second one is totally up to you. As you near the finish of a cut, slow down so that you can control the tip and not let it nod into the dirt.

Another tip-

If the butt of the log and the top of the tree are both laying firmly on the ground, it is likely that the upper part of the middle of the log is under compression. If you cut from the top of the log toward the dirt it is likely that as you remove wood from the kerf, the log will close and pinch your bar. I prefer to cut from the bottom of the log upwards in those situations. You can also use a wedge to hold the kerf open and avoid pinching.
 
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I am really impressed with the amount of knowledge and friendliness in this forum, these replies are awesome and very informative. Thanks very much for your assistance, I am really excited with all the tips and help so far, I think it's a good start. Do you recommend getting rid of the limbs first and then work on the big pieces?
 
Do you recommend getting rid of the limbs first and then work on the big pieces?

Yes. The significant weight of the stem will hold the limbs still while cutting them off vs cutting it into pieces (rounds) and then trying to limb the rounds.
 
I sure thought someone here that is in your area would have offered to come give you some advice, tips and or help. If there wasnt as much real estate between us I would offer but we couldnt be much farther apart.
Make sure you keep a watch on that 450 they are set awfull lean at factory settings. Also check out some of the fuel and oil threads here, they will confuse you with all the different opinions. Be sure to use a good premix, not the box store on mix fits all and premium fuel. I also use Stabil and Seafoam in my mix.
 
I was reading the owner's manual and chain has to be at a certain tension. What's the best way to check for proper tension?
 
You should be able to pull one of the drive links (part that runs in the groove) clear of the bar without too much trouble. Too loose, and the chain will tend to jump off. Too tight, and the chain runs hotter and uses power that could be used to cut wood, to spin the chain.
 
I was reading the owner's manual and chain has to be at a certain tension. What's the best way to check for proper tension?

No sag, no drag - meaning that the chain should not sag down below the bar rails (on the underside), and it should be easy to pull it around the bar with a couple of fingers. :msp_smile:

What beginners often do wrong is that they overtighten the chain initially, and then wait waay too long before they check again.
Specially with new chain, it is important to check often.
 
Yes. The significant weight of the stem will hold the limbs still while cutting them off vs cutting it into pieces (rounds) and then trying to limb the rounds.

I agree, but would leave limbs that hold the log off the ground as long as possible - easier on the back, and easier to avoid hitting the ground that way.

Anyway, focus on predicting stress and tension in the wood, and where the tip of the bar is!
 
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