Husqvarna 50 big-bore upgrade question

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Matt,
I a'm here, thanks for the link. Rep sent.

The 50 on my bench is a 45 mm bore, s/n 0311318, black tag. Not sure what year that would be.

The bottom of the cylinder on this one, and a 1999 55 measure 49.96 mm, so pretty close to the service bulletin.

Good info, I will track this as I get ready to pull the trigger on my project. It seems this series of saws is worth the effort even though some look down on anything not a "pro" saw.

Definately worth rebuilding especially for general fire wood cutting and property maint'. Metal crankcase lasts and lasts and is rebuildable. Many parts interchange with Husqvarna 51 and 55 so lots of parts available. Most professionals may prefer a more powerful saw but hard to beat for the average guy.
 
Definately worth rebuilding especially for general fire wood cutting and property maint'. Metal crankcase lasts and lasts and is rebuildable. Many parts interchange with Husqvarna 51 and 55 so lots of parts available. Most professionals may prefer a more powerful saw but hard to beat for the average guy.

I :heart:LOVE:heart: these saws. I think it is optimal all around saw, it will keep pace with my 026 and cost half as much:)
 
Follow up

I recieved the NWP p/c from Bailey's and first impressions are good. Looks like good quality and a very close match to OEM cylinder. This model is drilled and tapped for de-comp valve (not included) and a plug is included if you chose not to add de-comp. Piston looks good and ring has a narrow groove in the center. Measurements on circumfrence at the bottom of cylinder are 50.0mm. Exactly match OEM 55. Crankcase opening on Husqvarna 50 is 51.6mm and the cylinder drops right in (only 1.6mm clearance but no problems there). Haven't bolted it on yet, only test fit. I see no problems with this upgrade fitting. I somehow got lucky that this older crankcase had the larger opening. I will add more as things progress.
 
Carb rebuild

Axle, you might want to invest in a carb rebuild kit. Its cheap insurance, and while you have the saw apart making the top end NEW why not freshen the carb up too. I did the carb the same time i did the big bore on my 362xp, the kits average $10. Good luck and keep us posted on when you finally fire the old girl up.
 
I recieved the NWP p/c from Bailey's and first impressions are good. Looks like good quality and a very close match to OEM cylinder. This model is drilled and tapped for de-comp valve (not included) and a plug is included if you chose not to add de-comp. Piston looks good and ring has a narrow groove in the center. Measurements on circumfrence at the bottom of cylinder are 50.0mm. Exactly match OEM 55. Crankcase opening on Husqvarna 50 is 51.6mm and the cylinder drops right in (only 1.6mm clearance but no problems there). Haven't bolted it on yet, only test fit. I see no problems with this upgrade fitting. I somehow got lucky that this older crankcase had the larger opening. I will add more as things progress.

Thanks for the update.
 
Thanks for the update.

Mark,
On another note, I have been in intrested in a few of the Poulan Pro saws and I have read a few of your posts on them. I was hoping to ask you for a little insight since you seem to have quite a bit of experience with these models. I have been running a Husqvarna in the 59-60cc range for cutting my bigger firewood and have since gained an appreciation for this class of saw. I have looked at a few Poulans to see what is out there and I saw an older post of yours about the PP 365. What are your general thoughts on handling, power, and performance on the hardwoods (esp. bigger oaks)? My husqvarna seems to have a lot of low end torque and pulls a 20-24 inch bar no problem (24 would be the biggest though). I would like to experiment with some other saws in the 60cc range and you can occasionally find a Poulan that won't break the bank. I guy I work with bought a PP 330 when Tractor Supply started clearanced them last year and he loves his. THe PP 365 seems like it would be a step in the right direction..........................any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Axle, you might want to invest in a carb rebuild kit. Its cheap insurance, and while you have the saw apart making the top end NEW why not freshen the carb up too. I did the carb the same time i did the big bore on my 362xp, the kits average $10. Good luck and keep us posted on when you finally fire the old girl up.

I rebuilt the carb last week with a complete kit. Most gaskets and diaphrams were good but replaced them anyway. The K10-WAT kit was about $9 and the needle valve was starting to show a ring. Dad has probably done a gasket kit before years ago but the inside needed a good cleaning anyway. That is good advice though.
 
Mark,
On another note, I have been in intrested in a few of the Poulan Pro saws and I have read a few of your posts on them. I was hoping to ask you for a little insight since you seem to have quite a bit of experience with these models. I have been running a Husqvarna in the 59-60cc range for cutting my bigger firewood and have since gained an appreciation for this class of saw. I have looked at a few Poulans to see what is out there and I saw an older post of yours about the PP 365. What are your general thoughts on handling, power, and performance on the hardwoods (esp. bigger oaks)? My husqvarna seems to have a lot of low end torque and pulls a 20-24 inch bar no problem (24 would be the biggest though). I would like to experiment with some other saws in the 60cc range and you can occasionally find a Poulan that won't break the bank. I guy I work with bought a PP 330 when Tractor Supply started clearanced them last year and he loves his. THe PP 365 seems like it would be a step in the right direction..........................any thoughts would be appreciated.

I love my Poulan Pro 365. Not the lightest, not the fastest but just feels good the way its laid out, and runs pretty darn good. The choke, throttle lock and off switch are laid out in the most sensable way that I know of. I run a 20" 3/8s on it and it pulls it well.

I also have a Poulan Pro 330 that I like as well.

The 330 has a bigger carb stock and isn't much behind the 365. I have had 330 style carb here for some time that I want to try on the 365, but just have not had time. Other projects have got in the way.

If you can find a Super 380 or a 3750 there also 60cc and have the better filter setup on them like the 330 has.

The only thing I don't like about this series is the A041 bar mount on them, no really good bars are made in 3/8's for them. I have a modified small Husky K095 mount on my 330 right now and it works fine.

I also have a Husky 262XP and while the Poulan wont outrun it, it feels better and is a little smoother. At the end of the day the 365 will not have much less wood in the truck.

Since your in East KY , if you ever get a chance to hook up with Mopar Mike, try to get him to let you run his souped up some Poulan Pro 365. Its a runner.
 
I love my Poulan Pro 365. Not the lightest, not the fastest but just feels good the way its laid out, and runs pretty darn good. The choke, throttle lock and off switch are laid out in the most sensable way that I know of. I run a 20" 3/8s on it and it pulls it well.

I also have a Poulan Pro 330 that I like as well.

The 330 has a bigger carb stock and isn't much behind the 365. I have had 330 style carb here for some time that I want to try on the 365, but just have not had time. Other projects have got in the way.

If you can find a Super 380 or a 3750 there also 60cc and have the better filter setup on them like the 330 has.

The only thing I don't like about this series is the A041 bar mount on them, no really good bars are made in 3/8's for them. I have a modified small Husky K095 mount on my 330 right now and it works fine.

I also have a Husky 262XP and while the Poulan wont outrun it, it feels better and is a little smoother. At the end of the day the 365 will not have much less wood in the truck.

Thanks for the info. I have never seen the Super 380 or 3750 before but I will start looking. I try to get a lot of bar and chain needs from Bailey's and I noticed too that they carry very little for bars on the PP 330 and others. If I find a good saw at the right price, I may ask you more about how you modified the K095 mount. Was it simply a oiler hole mod or mount mod? Gizzard had just mentioned the 3750 to me in an earlier conversation and that sounds like it would be worth checking out. I saw some pics you had posted of your 365 while doing a search on the model. Yours looks to be in great condition. Thanks again for the info.
 
I have been following this as I have been wondering about the 55 cy on a Partner 500 saw.

Short of pulling them down I compared the Husky 50 that I had to a Partner that I have. The Partner needs a threaded boss on the right side of the cyl for the upper handle mount to bolt to.

The 50 cyl had that threaded boss even though it was not used on it.

Does the 55 cyl have it as well? As you can tell I know nothing first hand on a 55.

attachment.php


I liked the 50 that I had but ended up trading it reluctently for a older saw I had been looking for that was much harder to find. It's new owner tells me that he is very happy with it though.
 
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Thanks for the info. I have never seen the Super 380 or 3750 before but I will start looking. I try to get a lot of bar and chain needs from Bailey's and I noticed too that they carry very little for bars on the PP 330 and others. If I find a good saw at the right price, I may ask you more about how you modified the K095 mount. Was it simply a oiler hole mod or mount mod? Gizzard had just mentioned the 3750 to me in an earlier conversation and that sounds like it would be worth checking out. I saw some pics you had posted of your 365 while doing a search on the model. Yours looks to be in great condition. Thanks again for the info.

The 3750 is virtually the same saw as a Super 380 far as I can tell. The bar mod is very simple.
 
I have been following this as I have been wondering about the 55 cy on a Partner 500 saw.

Short of pulling them down I compared the Husky 50 that I had to a Partner that I have. The Partner needs a threaded boss on the right side of the cyl for the upper handle mount to bolt to.

The 50 cyl had that threaded boss even though it was not used on it.

Does the 55 cyl have it as well? As you can tell I know nothing first hand on a 55.

attachment.php


I liked the 50 that I had but ended up trading it reluctently for a older saw I had been looking for that was much harder to find. It's new owner tells me that he is very happy with it though.

The OEM 50 and OEM 55 both have the threaded boss and so does the NWP. The NWP is slightly different as it does not show that raised vertical rib on the right edge of the boss but looks the same otherwise and should fill the same prupose. I will try to get a picture up later.
 
I have been following this as I have been wondering about the 55 cy on a Partner 500 saw.

Short of pulling them down I compared the Husky 50 that I had to a Partner that I have. The Partner needs a threaded boss on the right side of the cyl for the upper handle mount to bolt to.

The 50 cyl had that threaded boss even though it was not used on it.

Does the 55 cyl have it as well? As you can tell I know nothing first hand on a 55.

attachment.php


I liked the 50 that I had but ended up trading it reluctently for a older saw I had been looking for that was much harder to find. It's new owner tells me that he is very happy with it though.

As the new owner of Mark's saw he's right I am VERY happy with this saw. If something would ever happen to it I'll be looking at this mod though.
 
The OEM 50 and OEM 55 both have the threaded boss and so does the NWP. The NWP is slightly different as it does not show that raised vertical rib on the right edge of the boss but looks the same otherwise and should fill the same prupose. I will try to get a picture up later.


i suspected that it would have the boss on it since I found out Bo's Partner 543 use's a Husqvarna 55 top end on it.

Thanks for verifying it though.
 
Do yourself a favor, and replace the intake boot, impulse grommet and the fuel line, if not, you will most likely be replacing the P&C again......

Listen to this guy....very valuable info here....e-10 gas makes all the rubber parts very hard and which will result in an air leak. solid insurance anyways.
 
Any progress on yours so far?

Yes, Got it back together last night. Ended up putting more into it,AV mounts, trigger,throttle control rod,kill switch,and rubbers for the intake.All gotten from my Jonsereds Dealer. Nice saw,need to sharpen the chain and get some run time.
 
View attachment 168196View attachment 168197View attachment 168198View attachment 168199

Here is last nights progress. Everything went together pretty well. One note of intrest: all bolts going into case on this older saw have hex heads for a 5\16 socket instead of the later 4mm allen heads that Husqvarna later went to. When bolting down the cylinder, the casting holes in the new NWP were about 1.5mm smaller diameter than the holes in the OEM 44mm cylinder. I was unable to fit my smallest 1\4 drive socket through the holes. Luckily i had a 55 parts saw on hand and the 4mm allen bolts matched perfectly. The casting holes on the NWP do match the size of the OEM 46mm (from a 55 rancher) which it is designed to replace.
 
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