HUSQVARNA 536LiP4 battery pole saw

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It has recently come to my attention that a pole saw is now available for the Husqvarna 36 volt battery. From the ipl of this and my battery chainsaw it uses the same sprockets as the chainsaw. That means 6 tooth 3/8lp and/or 8 tooth 1/4.
One extendable and one not extendable. For anyone who has contemplated shortening a pole saw this one does not have a shaft to deal with. I just put one on order.

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/pole-saws/536lip4/967341210/
 
It is left handed.
It comes with .050 gauge 3/8 lp 40 drive links. I mounted the .043 stuff in Stihl, 61pmm3.
Not as powerful as the top handle Husqvarna battery saw.
The oil goes through the bar at the unused adjuster and then into the bar on the other side.
It has a grab handle near where an exhaust pipe would be.
I can cut the whole 44 drive link loop's length but must be careful or a circuit breaker trips.
While I was taking the picture with the three pine cookies it blew air through the battery for about a minute. I guess the weight of the motor makes it less controllable as to cutting straight than I would have liked.
I got about 3/4 speed compared to the top handle battery saw for stuff this is intended on doing.
 

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It's not left handed, you just have to go around the tree counter clock wise. Its just like the other husqvarna ones.
 
I decided to shorten it one evening. Here are some pictures of what is inside but first a few comments.

There is no ventilation in the battery compartment, kind of strange as the charger blows air through the battery and the top handle saw is designed to blow air through the battery. This is similar to the reversible string trimmer I have. There is a little fan inside the electronic compartment that comes on if the tool is used rather hard.

The way the bar attaches is more metal than the top handle chainsaw.

The chip clearing problems of the top handle saw are pretty much eliminated however it seems most of the chips are thrown forward at least at this writing.

The amount of flex was excessive as delivered in my opinion. This new set up is about right at least for grabbing with one hand in the middle and shaking. I cut 28 inches out of the shaft. I stopped in a horizontal cut, took the battery out and it stayed without kinking or similar. so one could get it stuck, remove the battery and then deal with getting it out or taking the bar off. I kind of doubt this could be done as delivered.

I am guessing that metal cylinder is to make magnetism the control module can sense.

These devices are less kickback prone than a gasoline tool, at least until there is a gasoline fuel cell.

The wires going down the tube are in my estimation 10 gauge, certainly more than 12 gauge.

There was not a way I could see to get the wires out of the tube without cutting or unsoldering.

shortened.tool.JPG control.module.a.JPG control.module.b.JPG induction.ring.JPG power.head.JPG trigger.and.interlock.JPG
 

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