Huztl MS660

[Bedford T]

i am sorry you are facing that. i have stopped my install and reordered crank, seals, gasket and bearings and will start over when those pullers reach me. i said from the first those seals being installed was a mistake and the clutch side seal has the most surface area. have you tried wetting the seal to see the leak?

we are learning. we were anxious to get started

it is official we are on our own with the shutter, just got no where.

Excellent point.

I have an air leak in mine. It won't hold vac or pressure. I suspect it's the clutch side seal so I'll complete a tear down and test along the way to isolate the source of the air leak. I did initial testing with the saw mostly intact, a block off plate over the exhaust port, a decomp plug in place of the decomp valve and a Stihl test adapter in place of the carb.

 

[trboxman]

I haven't torn it completely down to the point where I have access to the seals yet. Life keeps getting in the way of play on this one. There's a very high likelihood that I won't touch this until Sat or Sun. I've got a rebuild on a double cardan joint driveshaft for a Jeep that's in queue in front of the saw.

It looks like when I finish this project I'll be fairly well outfitted to work on chainsaws though, the tool collection just keeps growing and growing....

 

[Kostas]

i am sorry you are facing that. i have stopped my install and reordered crank, seals, gasket and bearings and will start over when those pullers reach me. i said from the first those seals being installed was a mistake and the clutch side seal has the most surface area. have you tried wetting the seal to see the leak?

we are learning. we were anxious to get started

it is official we are on our own with the shutter, just got no where.

What happened?You reordered from Huztl i assume.

 

[davhul]

you will be using a puller right? that's a big difference. i did mine caveman style.

Not at first. Going to do it like some here have to do it. I'll take pics or maybe a vid. I'm going to use my heat gun and inferred thermometer.


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[blsnelling]

If you heat the case properly, the bearings will literally FALL into place.

 

[trboxman]

If you heat the case properly, the bearings will literally FALL into place.

Yes, in this case the bearings are already mounted. No one is messing with bearing installation/removal yet. It's the crank that folks need to fit into the bearings. The oil seals are also already mounted, they should be removed prior to fitting the crank and pressed in after the crank is in place.

 

[tbohn]

Has anyone tried boiling the cases to heat them to insert the bearings? You wouldn't be able to get to 250F but I know it won't get too hot.

 

[trboxman]

No one is messing around with bearings yet.

Sent from a magic box in my pocket.

 

[blsnelling]

Yes, in this case the bearings are already mounted. No one is messing with bearing installation/removal yet. It's the crank that folks need to fit into the bearings. The oil seals are also already mounted, they should be removed prior to fitting the crank and pressed in after the crank is in place.

Remove the flywheel side bearing and install it on the crank. Heat the case and drop the bearing/crank into the case. Pull the case halves together either case bolts. I've done it many times and never stripped a thread. The key is to only tighten it maybe 1/2 turn and go to the other side. If you want longer bolts, they're readily available at any hardware store.

 

[Bedford T]

I became more educated and felt I had caveman's my way and damaged this good equipment.

I want a good saw so I am going to start over. The bearing are too tight, I am certain I over did it. I do not want to complete it and chase problems. My gut tells me this is the way for me. I used a hammer and a block of wood at first, that might clear it up for you.. Yes I am using farmertec. $20 crank, 3$ seals etc

I want to install it correctly, bearings then the crank and lastly the seal. Without beating on the crank hard. Taps are needed. I will be happy then.

I should have reordered seals and waited for them to arrive, removed seals and installed crank with heat then placed new seals. Or even bearing on crank.

I got impatient and wanted it to happen immediately. Wrong way for me.

What happened?You reordered from Huztl i assume.

 

[Kostas]

Ok,i see.Go the way that makes you feel happy.You guys are saying that the bearings are preinstalled to the cases.Why don't you just put the crank in the freezer for a day or so?I bet it will fall right in the bearing,maybe with a little pressure or a couple gentle taps.I agree 100% with the procedure blsnelling discribes but why going backward(remove the bearing from the case to install it to the crank) to move forward(then install the bearing-crank to the case).I am not here to give lessons,i am far from expert but according to my limited experience,the bearing to the case is a more tight fit than the crank to the bearing.

 

[Bedford T]

This thread is about assembling the kit. There has to be many ways of doing it. I have expressed many times in this thread that I am greatful the bearings are installed. I take your point, because I have recognized that from day one with the kit in hand.

I will not waste your time explaining I feel like I messed up the parts and starting from scratch is the only way I can undo it at this point. Parts have been ordered it's been decided.

Buy a kit and then you can tell me.

So everything is fine. I will let everyone know the minute I have something to report or a kit owner has a question. I personally am all good now.

Waiting on tools and parts. I will use heat when I get the parts.

 

[davhul]

Just curious, has anyone weighed the PHO to compare it to that of the actual Stihl PHO weight. Based on the manuals for the 066 and the 660, the 066 weights 16.1 lbs and the 660 weights 16.5. Those weights are without the B&C.

I bet this kit is aluminum. Is there a way to know I'm not sure?
The stihl's are magnesium so there might be a weight difference.


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[trboxman]

Shipping weight of the package was 19 lbs, inclusive of box, packaging materials, and several excess rubber bits. It's not too far off. I might get a chance to weigh the thing this weekend.

 

[ssm1699]

I am just being curious because a buddy of mine and my cousin, of whom work/worked for the city forestry, bitched about the weight of the 660 and 880 that they ran. I was just curious how this compared to a genuine 660, for weight. I myself would get one of these kits, if I had the money right now. But my family comes first right now and I don't really need a saw this big. Really, a 440 with a BB kit, would probably do all of the biggest stuff I will ever encounter.

 

[trboxman]

The seals should never be installed before the crank and case halves are assembled. If they are, remove them. IMHO, this is a flaw in the kit..

From what I understand via the Service Manual and from talking with a local Stihl tech this is how Stihl sends cases for warranty work. Bearings & seals installed, serial number plate blank. The tech is supposed to stamp the SN from the bad saw onto the new case. The tech I talked to could remember having done exactly one in the last decade...

Now that I have it torn down and after all of the bearing this and bearing that conversations I'm going to go ahead and remove and replace the bearings. This is supposed to be about learning so I'm going to learn by doing.

 

[blsnelling]

From what I understand via the Service Manual and from talking with a local Stihl tech this is how Stihl sends cases for warranty work. Bearings & seals installed, serial number plate blank.

Was that part from a service manual?

The cases that I have purchased did not have seals installed but the bearings were. Having the bearings already in the case is not an issue if you have the Stihl crank puller. If you're installing a crank without the Stihl puller, you'll need to remove the flywheel side bearing since you don't want to drive the crank into the bearing. If the bearing is removed, it's easy to hold the crank web and install the bearing. At that point is when you can heat the case and drop the bearing/crank assembly into the case.

 

[trboxman]

Was that part from a service manual?

The cases that I have purchased did not have seals installed but the bearings were. Having the bearings already in the case is not an issue if you have the Stihl crank puller. If you're installing a crank without the Stihl puller, you'll need to remove the flywheel side bearing since you don't want to drive the crank into the bearing. If the bearing is removed, it's easy to hold the crank web and install the bearing. At that point is when you can heat the case and drop the bearing/crank assembly into the case.

Yes, that part is from the MS660 service manual. I have the pullers so while not the process that I'll follow it will be useful info for others.

 

[davhul]

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[davhul]

Bad pics. Lmk if you can't read it


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