Finished!
Huztle MS361
- Thread starter jackjcc
- Start date
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walterg
ArboristSite Operative
To view it on a phone, switch to desktop view and it works.
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walterg
ArboristSite Operative
Congrats!![emoji3] [emoji3]Finished!
So, knowing what you know now, what would you do different.
Decomp valve, and maybe oem fuel line. Anything else?
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Decomp valve for sure.
Disassemble and inspect carb. This one had wrong metering lever spring.
Use the genuine Stihl screws for the muffler.
Be very careful on carb installation not to pinch the fuel line.
tpence2177
ArboristSite Operative
Got any videos of it running?
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Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Nope, we don't do videos.
Base gasket delete by the way. With it we were over .045" squish.
Runs good, oils good.
Green cherry.
Base gasket delete by the way. With it we were over .045" squish.
Runs good, oils good.
Green cherry.
I put it up on my local Craigslist.
Mostly to stir up trouble. It's what geezers do best.[emoji48]
Mostly to stir up trouble. It's what geezers do best.[emoji48]
Anybody put together a 49mm version yet?
Just finished my 361, got it to fire and run for a few seconds eventually, soon as I blipped the throttle it stalled and cannot get it to start, any ideas what may be the cause
Carb is not passing fuel.
Mine had a long, over stiff metering lever spring. I swapped in a spring from a Farm Boss carb I had in my junk.
I pulled the muffler to check nothing was wrong, when turning it over by hand I can hear a metal on metal scraping noise that sounds like it's coming from the bottom end, I was having issues with installing the crank and getting it to spin freely. I wonder if this may be part of the problem
blekman
ArboristSite Lurker
if the crank didnt spin freely before you put the cylinder on then its not assembled right
Any ideas on why the crank felt a little stiff?
Have never played with bottom ends on a saw before
blekman
ArboristSite Lurker
more than likely its not centred.
take the flywheel and clutch off, as well as the cylinder for good measure and give the ends of the crank a few sharp taps with a soft head hammer, continue until the crank spins freely.
Hopefully no damage has been done already
take the flywheel and clutch off, as well as the cylinder for good measure and give the ends of the crank a few sharp taps with a soft head hammer, continue until the crank spins freely.
Hopefully no damage has been done already
It's not going to spin very easily with the new crank seals.
Just a reminder fellas.
Provided the shaft is centered, it should turn with almost no effort sans seals.
Another good reason to remove them before assembling the bottom end.
Just a reminder fellas.
Provided the shaft is centered, it should turn with almost no effort sans seals.
Another good reason to remove them before assembling the bottom end.
Thinking I may order some new seals, remove the ones that are there and tap the crank
So I found the problem, the little curculio that holds the wrist pin in had come out and got dragged down the cylinder causing a bit of damage to the cylinder, the scraping noise is the skirt of the piston just making contact with the crank at bdc.
Will it still run with cylinder as the damage is below the transfers??
Will it still run with cylinder as the damage is below the transfers??
Attachments
I'd polish it out and run it.
You didn't get the wire retainer nestled in its groove?
You didn't get the wire retainer nestled in its groove?
I blew it up to make it easier to see... it'll run, not great, but it'll run. You'll wanna get in there and knock down any sharp edges. As cheap as these cylinders are though, I'd replace it.
I will be ordering a new cylinder, may even get the big bore kit for it, may get a new wire clip and put it back together to make sure I have buffered anything else up. Where the piston runs the crank, should I just lightly file a little bit away from the skirt?
