I think it's time for a new 'big' saw. Recommendations?

[hseII]

Fixed it for ya. LoL
I'm not being sensitive. Just picking on Stihl (obviously), not you. We're all good, you should know that. I know your a husky lover at heart. Sone day you'll listen to your inner voice.

Huskys rattle themselves to death when I own them, or they piss everywhere.

I’ve had quite a few & never had any luck with them.

 

[Skeans]

Huskys rattle themselves to death when I own them, or the piss everywhere.

I’ve had quite a few & never had any luck with them.

And Stihl's put a fallers hand to sleep real quick it's personal preference.

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[unclemoustache]

I picked up my 661 before it was "technically" available in my area so I don't know if I had a paperwork issue as well, but I got it out the door with the 36" bar/chain for 1179.xx plus tax...

Yup. That's my price too.
Might be a problem with bar and chain also. I wanted the .050 gauge, and I think I got the .063.

 

[svk]

Yup. That's my price too.
Might be a problem with bar and chain also. I wanted the .050 gauge, and I think I got the .063.

Throw that stuff in the trading post before you use the saw. You can probably get an AM bar and chain of your choice and put $ in your pocket along the way.

 

[Skeans]

Throw that stuff in the trading post before you use the saw. You can probably get an AM bar and chain of your choice and put $ in your pocket along the way.

.50 gauge in a 36" long bar? Thought Stihl was the only one left making one.

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[svk]

I thought GB had them too? Or maybe those were old stock.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Yup. That's my price too.
Might be a problem with bar and chain also. I wanted the .050 gauge, and I think I got the .063.

I hear that .063 carries oil better......

 

[Husky Man]

Woodn't the 660w/36" have enough power to pull an .063 chain? What would be the advantage, besides chain speed, to using an .050 chain for felling and firewooding? I would just go to a skip tooth chain @ .063, but I still have a lot to learn, the first 40 years of using chainsaws, was just stock saws, with OEM chains for firewood, nothing specialized or modified, just asking to learn, not contradict anyone else's advice.

I hadn't heard, or thought about an .063 carrying oil better than an.050, but it makes sense to me, the learning continues,

Doug

 

[CaseyForrest]

I don't know if there's any validity to it. I run .050 exclusively.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

My 050 semi chisel with holes and relief porting carries oil very well on a 48'' bar so as soon as the 050 gets loose then go to the 063. I do not like using skip chain, but many do. It is just my personal preference for a non skip chain. With some small mods the oiler can be improved anyway. I only use semi chisel chain because chisel wears out twice or three times as fast. There does not seem to be any difference in power on the 063 to 050. How the chain is set up makes a difference too.Thanks

 

[Husky Man]

There does not seem to be any difference in power on the 063 to 050. How the chain is set up makes a difference too.Thanks

My understanding is that the .050 has a narrower tooth, so you are taking narrower bites out of the wood, the wider kerf of the .063 is supposed to use a bit more power to cut, slowing chain speed, at least that is how it has been explained to me, but I'm still learning the finer points, but at least after handling chainsaws for over 40 years now, I still have all the body parts that I am Supposed to have

Doug

 

[svk]

Cutters are identical from .050 to .063. Just the driver width differs.

 

[Big_Wood]

Having ran the 390, 395, and a 661 I'd rather run a 395 with a 36" or longer bar for production falling work. The 390 will pull a semi skip square 36" setup with a 7 pin sprocket just not as well out here we don't see many 661 running most that had them got them bought back.

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maybe stock. they get run side by side often out here (well, before the 661 was given up on lol). it's hard to believe anyone would choose anything other then a ported 390 or 660 after running them all. my 390's beat a 395 with the 36" everytime. 661 **** spongy saw and the 395's heavy with the outboard clutch. 2 saws not worth the time unless maybe milling.

There does not seem to be any difference in power on the 063 to 050. How the chain is set up makes a difference too.Thanks

My understanding is that the .050 has a narrower tooth, so you are taking narrower bites out of the wood, the wider kerf of the .063 is supposed to use a bit more power to cut, slowing chain speed, at least that is how it has been explained to me, but I'm still learning the finer points, but at least after handling chainsaws for over 40 years now, I still have all the body parts that I am Supposed to have

Doug

keep in mind, your kerf will be the same with .050 or .063 when using stihl chain. don't worry about oiling; if your saw won't oil .050, you got other issues.

 

[Husky Man]

Thanks SVK, The learning continues

You too Westcoaster90
Doug

 

[Husky Man]

Westcoaster90, you think that the 390xp is a better saw than the 395xp?, right now I have a 23 Compact, a 460 Rancher, a 266xp and a 3120xp(I want to try some CSM), I wont be buying right away, but I have been thinking that a 395xp, would be a good fit for bigger than the 266 is up to, but a bit handier than the 3120.

I was also thinking that I would have a .404 sprocket installed on the 395(or maybe 390?) so as to be able to use the same B/C's as the 3120, or would you recommend staying with the 3/8 sprocket/bar/chain on the 390/395?

Thanks, Doug

 

[Big_Wood]

Westcoaster90, you think that the 390xp is a better saw than the 395xp?, right now I have a 23 Compact, a 460 Rancher, a 266xp and a 3120xp(I want to try some CSM), I wont be buying right away, but I have been thinking that a 395xp, would be a good fit for bigger than the 266 is up to, but a bit handier than the 3120.

I was also thinking that I would have a .404 sprocket installed on the 395(or maybe 390?) so as to be able to use the same B/C's as the 3120, or would you recommend staying with the 3/8 sprocket/bar/chain on the 390/395?

Thanks, Doug

if you gonna mill lots the 395 no question. a 390 easily mills as well but i wouldn't buy one as a dedicated mill saw. the complaint about a 390 is a weak bottom end, they do go more often then others but pro's still get 250+ good days out of one. by then it don't matter what your running as any saw will be very tired if it ain't dead already.

 

[unclemoustache]

I don't know anything about chain. I once tried to learn and get it all figured out, but gave up after several years of intense study. It's a profound mystery to me. I chose .050 because that's what my other saw uses, and I don't want to confuse myself any more than necessary when making loops. I'm with Ted on the semi-chisel. Tried full chisel, but it wears out so quick, and I'm not going to bother with other kinds. Just find something that works and stick with it. I don't want to spend minutes changing loops or bars for every tree I cut.

Kinda like rope knots. There are dozens and dozens of knots out there with many different uses, but after a bit of study I decided I only needed to know a few. Bowline, figure 8, inline loop, and a couple others that I don't know the names of.

Going to get the saw now! Back in a few minutes.

 

[Husky Man]

Hi westcoaster90,
The 390/395 wouldn't be dedicated to milling, but I wont say it would never get used for milling, milling is mainly why I bought the 3120, and the Great price that Dave "The Chainsaw Guy" has on them

For CSM, I am thinking more about making tables, than lumber, and am looking at milling 20-44"? slabs for Coffee-Dining size tables eventually, with the 3120 doing the heavy milling and a 390/390 for bucking the logs. the 390/395 would also see a bit of firewood duty, we often cut wood in the 24-30" range that other people don't like to deal with, and we often are cutting at 5,000 feet elevation and above, as high as 6,200' so far. Burying a 24" bar on the 266 at over 5,000' the 266 is struggling. I could probably tune it for higher elevations, but I am not much with tinkering with saws, and the house is only at about 1,200', rather than retuning saws, I would rather have them tuned for lower, and accept a loss of power and fuel economy at elevation, rather than run them lean down lower, besides, it's an excuse to get another saw, right?

I have been a model railroader since I was a little kid, and have more locomotives than I can even guess at, in multiple scales (probably well over 100), I can see CAD, being a similar addiction, I can see the 390/395, a 550xp. possibly another 3120 being added to the collection, and as noted in another thread my wife enjoys going woodcutting, and has mentioned many times, again this morning, that she wants a saw of her own. I'm thinking a 445/16" would be a great size/power/weight/price balance for her. She said that saws are "Useful" and I won't get any arguments about more saws from her, Sorry guys, she's TAKEN

Doug

 

[unclemoustache]

Well, now I'm off to play trumpet at a wedding, then take my wife out to a steakhouse. This has been a very good Saturday! (Yes, I woke up to 'that' again.)

 

[Husky Man]

Yee Haw!!!!
I prefer a little more Orange in my saws

But it still looks Great, and Stihl have an Awesome reputation, so I don't fault your choice

Enjoy your new Toy, er, uhm, I mean new saw

Doug