I think it's time for a new 'big' saw. Recommendations?

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Woodn't:) the 660w/36" have enough power to pull an .063 chain? What would be the advantage, besides chain speed, to using an .050 chain for felling and firewooding? I would just go to a skip tooth chain @ .063, but I still have a lot to learn, the first 40 years of using chainsaws, was just stock saws, with OEM chains for firewood, nothing specialized or modified, just asking to learn, not contradict anyone else's advice.

I hadn't heard, or thought about an .063 carrying oil better than an.050, but it makes sense to me, the learning continues,

Doug

0.063” is just plain Better.
 
Max Flow FTW!!

.063 seems to stretch less milling and won't stop up the groove as easy in hardwoods. Poplar and some of the softer stuff I can get 1/8" long chips milling.
 
@Husky Man regarding the kirf width, it changes with the pitch size (.325, .375, .404). Chain has the same width cutter regardless of drive gauge (0.05, 0.053, 0.063) for a given pitch. The larger the pitch the larger the kirf. The thicker gauge does seem to stretch less on the higher HP saws.
 
@Husky Man regarding the kirf width, it changes with the pitch size (.325, .375, .404). Chain has the same width cutter regardless of drive gauge (0.05, 0.053, 0.063) for a given pitch. The larger the pitch the larger the kirf. The thicker gauge does seem to stretch less on the higher HP saws.

same width cutter but stihl use same width DL between the cutters, their DL is just thinned down for the .050 bars where needed. with oregon and many others gauge does affect kerf width. an .050 oregon chain has a thinner kerf then .050 stihl, .050 stihl has the exact same kerf as .063 stihl. since were even mentioning .050 i figured we were just talking 3/8's. it's common sense that a larger chain is gonna make a larger kerf.
 
Dang it. Just when I settled on going for the .050, a bunch of you tell me to get the .063. Now I don't know what to do. :angry:

How often are you planning on running the 3' bar? I didn't think I'd use mine that often and it's held true. Saw usually sees the 28" bar, even if it's 30-32" of wood it's just easier to handle. In all honesty, if I were to do it again I'd probably go .063. There's not much 28" or 36" chain on the shelf around here anyway so if I needed to order a chain no big deal.
 
If you're gonna buy a roll of chain, then go with .050. Keeping everything the gauge across the board has some advantages. Also, if you knock off 10 cutters in a row on a 115dl loop, you could make a smaller loop out of the good part if it's all the same gauge. .063 oils a little better and might be a hair stronger, and also you can swap to a .404 tip if you want to (.404 x .050 is not easy to find). Guess you have to pick which advantages suit you better.
 
I suppose all chain will cut - even the safety chain. The .063 may be better, but it's likely only a shade better and a guy like me may never even be able to notice the difference.

OK then - I'll stick to my plan.

In the meantime, anyone want to buy a brand new Stihl bar and a 36" loop of .063 semi-chisel chain?
 
So can a 044 or 372. . . and they are a whole lot lighter. I don't know if your getting younger and stronger as you mature.

An 044 will not pull a 36" bar through hardwood that well, or oil the bar that well, not in stock form. If necessary I can provide proof as I have both in the shop, can't comment on the 372 though.

Edit: I'm talking about full comp chain, none of that skip stuff.
 
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