Impact wrenchs are no no for chainsaws

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Reminds me of a sign at the old car repair place in town:

Standard labor per hour: $35
Labor per hour if you tried to fix it: $50

Ain't that the truth.

I used to chuckle at stuff like that. Having worked on a little plumbing over the years, I sometimes ask if the homeowner/landowner/tenant has already worked on the problem.

Especially if I'm told how "easy" it's going to be to fix it.

It almost always takes longer than if they hadn't "given it a try."
 
I use an impact wrench all the time. You just need to make sure which direction to turn the nut or clutch beforehand. My girlfriend's dad has actually made me spanner wrenches for different clutches that attached to my impact wrench.
 
Howdy,
Hopefully he didn't twist the shaft, and lucky he didn't break it. To bad he had that crappy OEM clutch on there. The aftermarket ones don't do that. And now back to your regular programing. He must have been holding the flywheel when he did that. I've always used the impact ,and have trained techs to do it that way without issues. You have to use the bump and run method or you might get a face full.
Regards
Gregg
 
I use an impact on large saws to remove the clutch. As for the Stihls this is a lesson learned for me. Next time I have to remove a clutch I will try the pull handle and see how it works.
 
Howdy,
Hopefully he didn't twist the shaft, and lucky he didn't break it. To bad he had that crappy OEM clutch on there. The aftermarket ones don't do that. And now back to your regular programing. He must have been holding the flywheel when he did that. I've always used the impact ,and have trained techs to do it that way without issues. You have to use the bump and run method or you might get a face full.
Regards
Gregg

Very wise! I never thought about the clutch coming apart due to the speed and force of the impact... Definitely something to keep in mind.

I had a clutch blow apart on me on a Stihl FS80 weed eater once. I didn't even THINK about the clutch drum not being on the motor. I had it apart from the shaft housing, and wanted to see if it would run okay before I put it back together. I'm luck a piece of that clutch didn't hit me in the head! I only found 1 of the 3 shoes, and 1 very bent spring.

Well, that's my "I done somethin' stupid" story for the day. :)
 
Around here some of the mechanic shops call the breaker bar a pull handle. It just rubs off on you when you work in the shop long enough.
 
Howdy,
Hopefully he didn't twist the shaft, and lucky he didn't break it. To bad he had that crappy OEM clutch on there. The aftermarket ones don't do that. And now back to your regular programing. He must have been holding the flywheel when he did that. I've always used the impact ,and have trained techs to do it that way without issues. You have to use the bump and run method or you might get a face full.
Regards
Gregg

Sounds like your full of yourself today Gregg. Why wouldn't he have that OEM clutch on that saw, don't new saws come with OEM cluthes on them?? And no he wasn't holding the flywheel, why would he have to, he used a impact wrench. I think he went the wrong way trying to take it off and that hammering from the impact wrench tighenting instead of loosening did the number, pretty obvious since nothing was broke untill that impact wrench got ahold of it. Good reason not to use one don'tcha think,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
I had the same thing happen to a guys MS200T, he didn't do it but another shop. He brought it in and said he just had it over at shop X, and he took it out and used it for a couple minutes and the clutch fell off. They broke the end of crankshaft clean off.
 
Just had this saw come in. Fellow used a impact wrench to remove the clutch. Though this doesn't always happen its a good idea never to use a impact wrench on a chainsaw. Look at his flywheel key, history.

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I have used impact wrenches without a problem for many years - even used a 3/8 drive CP air wrench to remove & install spark plugs & 1/4 " bolts when I was a flat rate mechanic in my youth. I currently use a DeWalt 18V 1/4 inch drive impact wrench on crankshaft nuts and - personally have never had to use any kind of a piston stop - even to remove a clutch. The impact wrench is the way to go in my view.

Ed
 
Blown 2 clutches apart with a impact...

Notta good idea....I never broke a crank,,,but blown 2 clutches apart with my 7-10A Mcc....That was a pissy design cause of the right hand nut,,keyway in the clutch part and shaft.Get some wear it's gonna come loose...Mcc finally got smart and went to the left hand nut without a keyway in the clutch,,shaft with the newer generation saws..*Late 70's to 80's*...Last clutch I blown apart I took to work and tigged the crap outta it around the key and the other weak points,,then I trew my impact on it and torqued the heck outta it,,,never came back loose....Good idea,,no,,but a man got his limitations......... :laugh:
 
I have used impact wrenches without a problem for many years - even used a 3/8 drive CP air wrench to remove & install spark plugs & 1/4 " bolts when I was a flat rate mechanic in my youth. I currently use a DeWalt 18V 1/4 inch drive impact wrench on crankshaft nuts and - personally have never had to use any kind of a piston stop - even to remove a clutch. The impact wrench is the way to go in my view.

Ed

Like I said at the beginning of this thread many survive the impact wrench. This one did not. Hard to argue with the obvious when your paying the bill for it. He won't be using that impact wrench on saws anymore after paying for this one, that I'm pretty sure we can count on. As for me I'll go by the book, no impact wrenches on chainsaws. Call Stihl and they will tell you the samething. I think the pic shows the reason why pretty clearly.
 
I have used impact wrenches without a problem for many years - even used a 3/8 drive CP air wrench to remove & install spark plugs & 1/4 " bolts when I was a flat rate mechanic in my youth. I currently use a DeWalt 18V 1/4 inch drive impact wrench on crankshaft nuts and - personally have never had to use any kind of a piston stop - even to remove a clutch. The impact wrench is the way to go in my view.

Ed

I use a 3/8 impact on mine. All you have to do is turn down the outlet pressure so your not cranking 150 psi at it. Start it low and increase a little at a time.

I like you idea with the 18v DeWalt impact.... Looks like I need to get one.
 
Sounds like your full of yourself today Gregg. Why wouldn't he have that OEM clutch on that saw, don't new saws come with OEM cluthes on them?? And no he wasn't holding the flywheel, why would he have to, he used a impact wrench. I think he went the wrong way trying to take it off and that hammering from the impact wrench tighenting instead of loosening did the number, pretty obvious since nothing was broke untill that impact wrench got ahold of it. Good reason not to use one don'tcha think,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Howdy,
I'm always full of myself. If you didn't wipe your nose after you shake my hand, you might not even know. I threw this in "And now back to your regular programing." hoping folks would know I was kidding. We pretty much dealt with Husqvarna as far as sales go. Until the recent past they all had outboard clutches. 8 tooth rims were pretty popular in these parts. We would have customers show up and buy 20 or more saws at a time and want the rims changed. By the time we changed the rims, fueled, oiled, and adjusted them, we were into it a couple hours. You add R&R top covers, R&R spark plugs, R&R piston stops, and it could double the time. Our way the customers could go have a meal, and a couple beers, and be on their way. This was important because we're in the middle of nowhere. We would have people drive a few hours to get here without a heads up, and expect to leave with everything they needed. If it was late in the day, the old man would have to pay overtime, and buy the beer. This was frowned upon.
I"ll have to agree with you that the impact wrench might not be the best suggestion for the end user.
P.S. This might turn some peoples hair gray but, we torqued them with the chainbrakes.
Regards
Gregg
 
Damn molded flywheel. Instead of new key, which are either free or dirt cheap, the guy has to go with a new flywheel at the tune of 90 bucks.:bang: Being cheap helps Stihl in production costs and parts sales.:chainsawguy: I do understand that technically, there is no reason for the key to shear, but #### happens and the wallet is really hurting.

I just put together a 361 like this. Key was sheared, so I just lined it and cranked it down. Hopefully it stays put, but it would have been really easy to just get a new key. It is a professional saw for a reason. Don't neg rep to bad 361 gods:bowdown::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
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