Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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Fyrebug said:
On power outage the primary air damper shuts down thereby slowing down your combustion considerably.

You could force it open I presume but with the forced air pushing the heat it'll just sit in your ductwork.

You could do like the Amish. Remove the blower and build a large inverted funnel like plenum with a large floor grating to get the heat upstairs.

Last solution is a generator backup.
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Convection will carry the heat up through the duct in an emergency to at least keep everyone from freezing. I was more concerned about damaging the firebox by holding the damper open and then voiding any warranty.

I actually did something like that last season only without the funnel like plenum. I ran the return to right above the wood stove and just opened it up. Not the best solution but could heat my entire house with an old hunter wood stove. I had no idea it was an Amish concept.
 
WV Mountaineer said:
Convection will carry the heat up through the duct in an emergency to at least keep everyone from freezing. I was more concerned about damaging the firebox by holding the damper open and then voiding any warranty.
Click to expand...

The fire will not damage the firebox. It's the heat build up in the ductwork that might be a concern, especially if you are running only 2 round duct. The heat will accumulate at your first bend and if you dont respect your clearance to combustibles you may be in trouble.

The reason the primary damper shuts down on power off is to avoid this scenario. We dont recommend you do this... but If you plan to force open the primary air on shutdown you should look at increasing your clearances. Even put a radiation shield (sheet metal) 1" away from combustible to help out.
 
hapec12 said:
So, the ONLY Difference in the two, are the side panels??:confused2:
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Yes... It's a marketing decision. Not every store wants to compete against everybody else on the same item. Car MFG do it with their brands and its a normal marketing strategy for the average consumer.

If you own a small chain of hardware store and have to compete against the big boys, it's nice to know that on the weekly flyer you are not selling the identical model and losing the deal by $9.95.

But you guys on AS are NOT average consumers! :msp_wink:
 
Fyrebug said:
Below $2,000
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I currently have a hooded wood stove that conveys heat up through the hood and into a ducted floor grate. If I were to put any sort of fan within the ducting, it would create bad drafting for the wood stove (epa type with air tubes) and over run the convecting heat coming off the stove. I notice this furnace is using a fan to push its heat up through the ducting. I would assume this uses more wood when the fan is running. How effective would the furnace be with just natural air convection and why does this fan not over run heat being produced by the furnace?
 
arrow said:
I currently have a hooded wood stove that conveys heat up through the hood and into a ducted floor grate. If I were to put any sort of fan within the ducting, it would create bad drafting for the wood stove (epa type with air tubes) and over run the convecting heat coming off the stove. I notice this furnace is using a fan to push its heat up through the ducting. I would assume this uses more wood when the fan is running. How effective would the furnace be with just natural air convection and why does this fan not over run heat being produced by the furnace?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind this furnace has been in the market for 8 years under the PSG label. So it's fully tested and been proven over that period of time.

Think of it as any other furnace oil/gas/electric... you have heat produced by an element or fuel and the heat needs to be extracted in a 'usable' form ie. in your ductwork. Therefore, the furnace designers build in components such as a combustion chamber, an extraction chamber (Heat exchanger) and a means to push & transport heat (air via the blower).

If you design your furnace properly, you can calibrate the efficiencies and other parameters. Test results are published to show it indeed works and 8 years of satisfied customers is nothing to sniff at either. If you want to see the specs of this furnace they are published here... Furnaces | Wood | Medium | Products by size | Drolet

Amish folks use our furnace with natural heat convections and it also works fine for them.
 
Will the user's manual be available soon so that we can see installation instructions, use instructions, clearance distances and all that other technical stuff we like to read about? :)
 
goatguy said:
Will the user's manual be available soon so that we can see installation instructions, use instructions, clearance distances and all that other technical stuff we like to read about? :)
Click to expand...

Putting the finishing touches as we speak.
 
Fyrebug said:
Putting the finishing touches as we speak.
Click to expand...

Frye, thanks for all the info. I like the ash catcher size as I like to not deal with ashes for at least a couple of weeks. As far as cosmetics, I think the font size for "Drolet" is on the garish size it is so large. I think letters about 3/4" tall would have made for a classier and more business like presentation. Its not like these things are out in the street and you're trying to advertise your product with some "eye catching" lettering because visual target distances are so large. It will not stop me from purchasing the unit however.
 
I have decided to build a new chimney as the old one is pulling away from the house. Previously, I was simply going to line the 7x11 flue tile with a stainless rigid pipe. Now that I'm starting fresh, I think it best for the liner to be cast clay tile, 6" round (inside diameter). If this type of liner presents a problem to the Drolet furnace Frye can you please inform me? Thanks
 

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