Is softwood really that soft?!?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Windthrown prolly laughing like crazy you taken him seriously get a grip already. Gullible whats gullible whos gullible am I gullible .

Surprisingly, the word gullible is not even in the dictionary.
 
056cull and pgg are gay.

that, or they really are that stupid.nor cal, 95255, is where I live.ready and willing to teach manners,hell,I wont even charge ya,just have your insurance paid up.lmao.
 
Bah I want to see a race in Lignum Vitae. Only wood that's so dense and hard it won't float as far as I know.


:laugh: angle grinders at twenty paces :cheers:

apparently used for ship prop shaft bearings, amongst other things :jawdrop:

oh, and Bob posted above the density of "Western Australian Black Desert Oak with an unknown hardness but a density similar to Lignum Vitae 81-83 lb/ft^3." so there's another one, at least.
 
Bah I want to see a race in Lignum Vitae. Only wood that's so dense and hard it won't float as far as I know.

About 1/3 of those species on my list wont float either :)

Tuart can also be used where Lignum Vitae, except there's stuff all of it left now.

While we're at it, what wood has the highest tensile strength ?
 
Last edited:
Whether something floats or not is not a good reference, Redwood, a very soft wood, will often sink to the bottom of log ponds. Dry Pepperwood (Bay Laurel) is pretty hard, I avoid it when I can.
 
Whether something floats or not is not a good reference, Redwood, a very soft wood, will often sink to the bottom of log ponds. Dry Pepperwood (Bay Laurel) is pretty hard, I avoid it when I can.

We're talking about dry wood sinking and I mean instantly like a stone. Dry redwood might sink over time but thats because it absorbs water.
 
Ur missing Madrone, kid. And Oregon white oak. And depending on where you live, Califronia black oak. Those are the species I go after in slash piles for firewood (trash trees from clear cutting) along with maple and doug fir tops and cull logs. Alder is great stuff too, but light. Good for cooking and smoking with, along with apple wood. Not found in slash piles though, it is too valuble at the mill. Similar to cedar. BLM does not let you cut cedar for firewood here either. Cedar is good for planking salmon on the BBQ (soak it in water first).

Most of what we burned at the ranch in central Oregon was Doug, Madrone, white and black oak, alder, and piss fir (grand fir, also incorrectly called white fir and really crappy fire wood but there was tons of dead snags and culls that we had to thin and dispose of). Here in Clack. Co. we have almost all alder and Doug firewood and some maple and oak that I dragged back from some tree jobs. Maybe 10 cords now. We are good to go this winter.


well i live near eugene oregon. and yeah, there definately are more types of tree's than i stated, several types of maples, wild cherry, couple oaks and such, but all that i just stated are really rare where i live, basically 3 types of wood take the market for firewood or lumber here. maple alder and fir. but yes, madrone is very nice and near the hardest wood around. also you're forgetting chinqupin or however you ####en spell it. its rock hard when it dries and burns forever. theres really no white oak near my domain, except on private propert, and i only know of 2 cali black oaks, and private property once again. understand what im saying now? alder, maple and fir are just the most common, cant look around without seeing one or the other. :dizzy:
 
While we're at it, what wood has the highest tensile strength ?

No one answered so I will.
Yate or Eucalyptus Cornuta has been measured at 17.5 tonnes per square inch which is only 3.5 tonnes less than wrought iron. It is a smallish (up to 70 ft high and 3 ft diameter) tree that occurs in a thin strip of land in south west western australia. Shame there are very few millable logs of it still standing.
It's 79 lb/cuft green and 71 dry
 
No one answered so I will.
Yate or Eucalyptus Cornuta has been measured at 17.5 tonnes per square inch which is only 3.5 tonnes less than wrought iron. It is a smallish (up to 70 ft high and 3 ft diameter) tree that occurs in a thin strip of land in south west western australia. Shame there are very few millable logs of it still standing.
It's 79 lb/cuft green and 71 dry

Geez, things are crook in Bedrock when you have to answer your own Q Bob ! :laugh:

Nice info BTW. ;)
 
Last edited:
Geez, things are crook in bedrock when you have to answer your own Q Bob ! :laugh:

Nice info BTW. ;)

You can always count on Bob to whip out the good data.

Bravo once again Bob.

P.S. I've still got a couple of 3 foot Tuarts to knock over down the South East for the inlaws! Have already cut a few - hard stuff.
 
for that very hardwood why dont you guys outfit your saws with water system for lube and to heat down along with chain designed to cut concrete
 
for that very hardwood why dont you guys outfit your saws with water system for lube and to heat down along with chain designed to cut concrete

Been there and done that! It's all in this thread. What I eventually found was it does keep the chain cool and clean, but the water - even just a dribble - still washes too much chain oil off the bar and bar and chain wear is greater and it's not worth it. Also I prefer treading on and being covered in red sawdust than in red mud.

I get "more/better" performance and cooler cutting by keeping the chain as sharp as possible and use an Auxilliary oiler with plenty of oil. In wide slabs I touch up after every slab. Sometimes even in the middle of a slab.

Some people do use carbide but it's not necessary unless you are in the very hardest wood. You get really good at sharpening and being really patient, but it's really worth it!
attachment.php
 
Last edited:
Been there and done that! It's all in this thread. What I eventually found was it does keep the chain cool and clean, but the water - even just a dribble - still washes too much chain oil off the bar and bar and chain wear is greater and it's not worth it. Also I prefer treading on and being covered in red sawdust than in red mud.

I get "more/better" performance and cooler cutting by keeping the chain as sharp as possible and use an Auxilliary oiler with plenty of oil. In wide slabs I touch up after every slab. Sometimes even in the middle of a slab.

Some people do use carbide but it's not necessary unless you are in the very hardest wood. You get really good at sharpening and being really patient, but it's really worth it!
attachment.php


That grain is awesome!..What are the woodworking characteristics of that wood?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top