Windthrown prolly laughing like crazy you taken him seriously get a grip already. Gullible whats gullible whos gullible am I gullible .
Surprisingly, the word gullible is not even in the dictionary.
Windthrown prolly laughing like crazy you taken him seriously get a grip already. Gullible whats gullible whos gullible am I gullible .
Surprisingly, the word gullible is not even in the dictionary.
Eureka! That must be where the 1450 comes from.
Isn't it great when someone calls you out for not looking closely enough at something when, in fact, they didn't look at it closely enough themselves in the first place. I wonder how crow tastes?
Bah I want to see a race in Lignum Vitae. Only wood that's so dense and hard it won't float as far as I know.
Crow? Probably tastes just like chicken. Have some crow:
http://www.crosscuthardwoods.com/Lumber/Random_width/pacific_coast_maple_rwl.html
Bah I want to see a race in Lignum Vitae. Only wood that's so dense and hard it won't float as far as I know.
err, it is, but I'm not sure I want to admit I went and checked in both the Concise Oxford English and Macquarie Dictionaries.Surprisingly, the word gullible is not even in the dictionary.
Whether something floats or not is not a good reference, Redwood, a very soft wood, will often sink to the bottom of log ponds. Dry Pepperwood (Bay Laurel) is pretty hard, I avoid it when I can.
Ur missing Madrone, kid. And Oregon white oak. And depending on where you live, Califronia black oak. Those are the species I go after in slash piles for firewood (trash trees from clear cutting) along with maple and doug fir tops and cull logs. Alder is great stuff too, but light. Good for cooking and smoking with, along with apple wood. Not found in slash piles though, it is too valuble at the mill. Similar to cedar. BLM does not let you cut cedar for firewood here either. Cedar is good for planking salmon on the BBQ (soak it in water first).
Most of what we burned at the ranch in central Oregon was Doug, Madrone, white and black oak, alder, and piss fir (grand fir, also incorrectly called white fir and really crappy fire wood but there was tons of dead snags and culls that we had to thin and dispose of). Here in Clack. Co. we have almost all alder and Doug firewood and some maple and oak that I dragged back from some tree jobs. Maybe 10 cords now. We are good to go this winter.
While we're at it, what wood has the highest tensile strength ?
No one answered so I will.
Yate or Eucalyptus Cornuta has been measured at 17.5 tonnes per square inch which is only 3.5 tonnes less than wrought iron. It is a smallish (up to 70 ft high and 3 ft diameter) tree that occurs in a thin strip of land in south west western australia. Shame there are very few millable logs of it still standing.
It's 79 lb/cuft green and 71 dry
Geez, things are crook in bedrock when you have to answer your own Q Bob !
Nice info BTW.
for that very hardwood why dont you guys outfit your saws with water system for lube and to heat down along with chain designed to cut concrete
for that very hardwood why dont you guys outfit your saws with water system for lube and to heat down along with chain designed to cut concrete
Been there and done that! It's all in this thread. What I eventually found was it does keep the chain cool and clean, but the water - even just a dribble - still washes too much chain oil off the bar and bar and chain wear is greater and it's not worth it. Also I prefer treading on and being covered in red sawdust than in red mud.
I get "more/better" performance and cooler cutting by keeping the chain as sharp as possible and use an Auxilliary oiler with plenty of oil. In wide slabs I touch up after every slab. Sometimes even in the middle of a slab.
Some people do use carbide but it's not necessary unless you are in the very hardest wood. You get really good at sharpening and being really patient, but it's really worth it!
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