It's Super and it Splits...
- Thread starter davec
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davec
ArboristSite Operative
Shipping was $216 via FedEx freight. Should be a little less than that to Ohio. I picked up at the terminal in Mpls/St Paul with my PU, so they could just place it right in the bed. Then I just had to get it down... Picking up at terminals is really quite easy as they are generally open 24 hrs, or at least much more than 8-5, and they will fork it right into your truck or trailer. Saves the hassle of waiting around for someone to show (or not...) and the extra expense of tailgate lift service (if even offered).
sawkiller
ArboristSite Operative
I also would like to see one of those split the nasty tangled up hedge and knarly trees that we usually harvest for fire wood. After all all the straight trees get logged for timber not firewood.
Curlycherry1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well we gave it about a 1.5 cord workout this afternoon and in cherry, elm, willow and maple it had no problems whatsoever. These were logs from complete trees ranging from 18" down to 3" and it never gave us a problem. It really loves oak. Because oak splits so cleanly and fast it just pops them and moves on.
I gotta say I am inpressed. I have split thousands and thousands of cords of wood in all matter of means and this splitter is a darn good unit. Only a handful of times did we have to give a piece a second whack. IMPRESSIVE machine!
I gotta say I am inpressed. I have split thousands and thousands of cords of wood in all matter of means and this splitter is a darn good unit. Only a handful of times did we have to give a piece a second whack. IMPRESSIVE machine!
sunfish
Fish Head
When I get to using mine good this fall, I'll find some stringy, knarly stuff and report back with pictures.
From what little I've used the SS, I sure do love it.
When I get to using mine good this fall, I'll find some stringy, knarly stuff and report back with pictures.
From what little I've used the SS, I sure do love it.
I got into some stringy stuff today, and it will slice more than it will split that kind of wood.
727sunset
ArboristSite Operative
My Super Split arrived at the terminal Tuesday and I picked it up in the crate yesterday. Thanks Davec for the pic at the start of this thread showing how it's shipped...rep sent. It was helpful seeing that it would definitely fit under the topper of my P/U. The assembly was all straight forward and everything went together in an orderly fashion.
I got it running today with 3 pulls and split a trailer load of ash this afternoon. From what I've seen so far I am impressed with the simplicity, strength and quality of this machine. It was bought sight unseen, and highly based upon the experiences of AS members and the online videos. No regrets. A very smooth transaction and Paul is great to deal with.
There's really no means of moving it around other than man handling, so I might have to fab some handles and add a trailer coupler. Has anyone done a similar mod?
Here's what they look like shiney and new.
I got it running today with 3 pulls and split a trailer load of ash this afternoon. From what I've seen so far I am impressed with the simplicity, strength and quality of this machine. It was bought sight unseen, and highly based upon the experiences of AS members and the online videos. No regrets. A very smooth transaction and Paul is great to deal with.
There's really no means of moving it around other than man handling, so I might have to fab some handles and add a trailer coupler. Has anyone done a similar mod?
Here's what they look like shiney and new.
davec
ArboristSite Operative
I've been noodling on a trailer hitch for it. Not for pulling on roads, but just because is durn heavy and a vehicle is the best way to move it. More to come as I get to it...
Congrats on the purchase. I was much the same as you - I've never seen one in person either.
Congrats on the purchase. I was much the same as you - I've never seen one in person either.
Dr. Hackemoff
ArboristSite Operative
No one's ever bent a wedge or beam on one of those?
I'm not a disbeliever, but the wedge and beam appear to be prone to bending. Or do they bend, but not yield?
Curious...
I'm not a disbeliever, but the wedge and beam appear to be prone to bending. Or do they bend, but not yield?
Curious...
Curlycherry1
Addicted to ArboristSite
These machines are built like a tank. Don't let the jiggle in the videos fool you. The reason they wiggle in the videos is because the center of gravity is high on these, and they have balloon tires which are very squishy. These machines are welded to oblivion. They could cut out costs if they lightened it up a bit, but that would defeat the purpose of having a machine capable of holding up to constant use.
The wedge and beam are welded and strong as can be. Also the wedge is sharp so when it encounters a knot it cuts right through it like a straight razor. No crunching and bending like a normal wedge. I have seen it cut black cherry from one end to the other on a split. It is very impressive.
I have an older model and it has worked quite well for me when splitting straight wood with no knots. I believe there is something wrong with it. Everytime I try and split a knotted up round the knob you pull on slams down and disengages the rack and pinion. After a couple times of that the rod connected to knob broke. I have only had it for a couple months and really unfamiliar with these machines.
Dr. Hackemoff
ArboristSite Operative
OK, thanks. Very impressive then. My 35 ton Speeco grunts like heck on knots, even after I upgraded the 10.5 HP Briggs engine to a 17 HP Kawasaki twin (picture attached- check out the "Command Center"). The wedge isn't well worn but it wasn't sharp from the factory. Do you (or anyone else) recommend putting a nice sharp edge on it?
Curlycherry1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds to me like something is wrong with your splitter that 10 Hp cannot handle everything you throw at it. I have never used a splitter (all of them homemade) that ran on anything over a 10 Hp BS or Kohler engine, and every splitter I used could cut any log off crosswise. My last two splitters were 4 way splitters and I used to test them by putting an 8" log in sideways and making sure it could crunch it for a full cylinder stroke. I'd be checking into your pump if I were you. You have an impressive looking machine there, seems to me that should eat anything.
sunfish
Fish Head
You need to call Paul at Super Split, number on the web site. There are a few small adjustments to be made in the cam lock deal that engages and disengages the ram. Also on the bearing spring that holds the ram up off the gear on the return stroke. Paul can explain it all and provide parts if you need.
sunfish
Fish Head
No bent wedge or beam on these. Different kind of force applied, nothing at all like a hydro splitter.
I pulled some rounds out of the junk pile the other day, these were some that I could not slip by hand last Spring. The SS grunted a bit and it took a couple or three hits but it split them all.
kgreer
ArboristSite Operative
Kevin at speeco weighs in
I believe there could be a problem with the pressure output or cylinder integrity on your 35 ton splitter. When you say "grunting" are you simply referring to when the pump slows and shifts in to the high pressure stage or is the ram actually being stopped? I have never known any of our 35 ton units to grunt or have any problems when operating correctly. They are beasts! Let me know if I can help you.
thanks
Kevin at Speeco
I believe there could be a problem with the pressure output or cylinder integrity on your 35 ton splitter. When you say "grunting" are you simply referring to when the pump slows and shifts in to the high pressure stage or is the ram actually being stopped? I have never known any of our 35 ton units to grunt or have any problems when operating correctly. They are beasts! Let me know if I can help you.
thanks
Kevin at Speeco
Dr. Hackemoff
ArboristSite Operative
Hi Kevin,
First of all, I may have mislead people with my Kawasaki "upgrade." The Briggs ran just fine until it began to start very hard, then I switched it out. Turns out it was just a troubled fuel pump. Starts like a champ again (I sold it).
I split a lot of knotty ash. I don't expect it to power through at full speed, but it does shift to the high pressure stage very often and slows significantly. I can't outright say there's a problem. Overall I am very happy with it and recommend it without hesitation.
I bought it new in June 09 and have probably split 12-15 cords with it. I haven't changed the hyd filter yet - maybe I should (maybe partially blocked?).
Also, the wedge sharpness is about the edge of a fifty cent piece or dollar coin. Should I sharpen it?
Lastly I am sorry to derail this thread from the original SS intent. I'l buy the first round...
Thank you for any help! Da Hack
kgreer
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the info. And sorry as well for hijacking the thread. Sounds like you don't have any real problems. When the pump shifts down it cuts the oil flow down significantly. usually, once your through the know it speeds right back up again. empty cycle time down and back should be in the 14 -16 second range. If yours is much greater than that there could be cause for concern. Sounds like your operating normally. Feel free to sharpen your wedge but too sharp and the force may blunt the edge.
727sunset
ArboristSite Operative
Subaru Robins engine
This little 6 HP engine holds 0.6 litre of oil...that's like 2 cups. Then it says the initial oil is good for 20 hours, thereafter change every 100 hours.:jawdrop:
Heck, I wont put 100 hours on it in a year lol.
Well I ran my SS for about 3 hours so far (worked super slick) and drained the oil when finished today. I do my own maintenance and have peace of mind always doing the first oil change early. This time to make it easier I added a 4" piece of clear tubing on the funnel and measured out the oil ahead of time....worked much better.
And of course a picture to help others when it's time.
This little 6 HP engine holds 0.6 litre of oil...that's like 2 cups. Then it says the initial oil is good for 20 hours, thereafter change every 100 hours.:jawdrop:
Heck, I wont put 100 hours on it in a year lol.
Well I ran my SS for about 3 hours so far (worked super slick) and drained the oil when finished today. I do my own maintenance and have peace of mind always doing the first oil change early. This time to make it easier I added a 4" piece of clear tubing on the funnel and measured out the oil ahead of time....worked much better.
And of course a picture to help others when it's time.
davec
ArboristSite Operative
Sunset - that's what I did to fill mine (but a smaller funnel and tube). Not like it's the first time I've had to deal with something like this, but still it just grates on me that the maroons in the engine design group would lay an oil fill port at 30 deg. Cripes sake. If they had turned it vertical or even 45 it would have been easy. But they don't care about this as most of these small engines are rated for 50 or 100 hrs (really - it's quite pathetic), so nobody does more than 1 oil change on them, typically. If that. Most people never change oil in small engines, I'd bet.
