I've never been stumped by a saw until now.... Stihl 026

[StihlGuitar]

I'm interested to see what you find wrong with the carb by pulling the cylinder?

What? You wouldn't find anything wrong with the carb by checking the cylinder...I simply stated that I wasn't going to troubleshoot the carb if I found a problem in the cylinder, i.e. circlip damage etc. Jesus, no need to be a prick. You're the one who misread it.

 

[Simonizer]

Pressure test the carb to see if it has an internal leak. If nothing is obvious and you have a pressure drop, do it in a bowl of water.

 

[StihlGuitar]

You couldnt check the P&C through the intake and exhaust ports?

come on....of course I did that. I wanted to see if a circlip damaged the cylinder elsewhere....dig a little deeper...i made sure there was fuel in the gas tank when i tried to start it too. I even used mix gas!

 

[bullseye13]

Carb diaphrams/gaskets in the wrong position/order installed can cause your problems, ive had them wrong when i get a saw someone else messed with. My first order of business is always pull muffler, second by REBUILD carb. When your pulling your hair out, its often easier to just foot the coin for a good used carb to get a baseline off of. you can always re-sell it later.

 

[StihlGuitar]

Pressure test the carb to see if it has an internal leak. If nothing is obvious and you have a pressure drop, do it in a bowl of water.

Will do...thanks for posting constructive advise....you gotta sift through a lot of idiocracy to get to it sometimes...what do ya do though?

 

[StihlGuitar]

Carb diaphrams/gaskets in the wrong position/order installed can cause your problems, ive had them wrong when i get a saw someone else messed with. My first order of business is always pull muffler, second by REBUILD carb. When your pulling your hair out, its often easier to just foot the coin for a good used carb to get a baseline off of. you can always re-sell it later.

i disassembled the carb and cleaned it early in the game. I would have noticed if it was assembled incorrectly. Thanks though.

 

[Simonizer]

Will do...thanks for posting constructive advise....you gotta sift through a lot of idiocracy to get to it sometimes...what do ya do though?

Just passing on some experience bro.

 

[watsonr]

in the absence of hemos I zip-tied a tweezers around the fuel line. i had the saw sitting upside down with the plug out already to purge any excess fuel. I put the tweezers on, put the plug in and it fired right up. Thanks. So i guess a carb rebuild is in order??

Yes, it needs a rebuild kit or the metering needle set correctly or the gasket may be set in the incorrect order.

Check the choke is working right? doubt that's it, though.

If the choke is closing when you start it because of a weak spring or not working correctly it will act flooded, that was pretty good advice to check.

You pulled the P&C before a simple carb repair kit? Did you pull the needle? Set metering lever height? The saw is 18yrs old.....I woulda started with a carb rebuild....just sayin.

He read the same thing I did apparently?

really? I'd rather not order a rebuild kit until I take the 5 minutes to pull the cylinder and see if the carb is worth fusing with. I don't keep carb rebuild kits around seeing as I have to use one every 50th saw or so....I've had a lot more scored pistons than failed carbs...

You said that you were going to pull the cylinder before you decided to mess with the carb from what I read. But why? It ran with a pinched hose restricting the fuel flow.. that points to the carb, just pull the muffler and look into the exhaust and see if there is any damage. If a clip went through it you will see that kind of damage easily.

Everybody reading your thread is saying or thinking the same thing, the carb is causing the flooding condition. Not the piston or a cir-clip.

you gotta sift through a lot of idiocracy to get to it sometimes...

I will agree with you there!

 

[woodyman]

This past spring the neighbor brought over an 024 Stihl that was sitting in his barn for a few years and asked if I could make it run.I told him yesI brought the carb to a small engine repair shop a mile away because I didn't have a kit and he was paying for it and I wanted to BS with the guy and look at his old saws he has laying around.So when I got it back on it just flooded out and would not start so I reset the metering level of the needle and it poped right off.I hate trying to get those little springs in when doing a carb rebuild.There isn't much to an 026 carb,make sure everything is cleaned and set right and you should be good to go.Almost forgot,I bought an aftermarket air filter for my 026 and when mounted it kept chocking and flooding it out.Got an OEM air filter $32.00 and it runs perfect.

 

[kr5258]

Pressure test the carb to see if it has an internal leak. If nothing is obvious and you have a pressure drop, do it in a bowl of water.

Had a similar problem like this drive me crazy too. Found that the previous "tech" had blown high pressure air into the carb and damaged the main nozzle check valve. Replaced it and it was good to go.

Find good info here: http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf

 

[StihlGuitar]

You said that you were going to pull the cylinder before you decided to mess with the carb from what I read. But why? It ran with a pinched hose restricting the fuel flow.. that points to the carb, just pull the muffler and look into the exhaust and see if there is any damage. If a clip went through it you will see that kind of damage easily.

Everybody reading your thread is saying or thinking the same thing, the carb is causing the flooding condition. Not the piston or a cir-clip.

OMG...you're not tracking. We determined it was the carb when I clamped the line. That was solved and case closed... After we figured that out someone asked why I pulled the p/c. That was in reference to my doing so BEFORE the carb was determined to be the problem... You're obviously not tracking and this was solved on page one so don't worry about it. I never thought that the piston or circlip was causing the flooding... You're ridiculous. keep with the timeline or just shut up. You're useless.

 

[sefh3]

Is this one of the most common problems with these saw. Besides the seals on the flywheel side. Is it a WT194? I think that is the right number on these. They can cause numerous headaches because of over fueling the system. I would look for another carb. Kits sometimes don't fix these.

 

[Saw Dr.]

i disassembled the carb and cleaned it early in the game. I would have noticed if it was assembled incorrectly. Thanks though.

OMG...you're not tracking. We determined it was the carb when I clamped the line. That was solved and case closed... After we figured that out someone asked why I pulled the p/c. That was in reference to my doing so BEFORE the carb was determined to be the problem... You're obviously not tracking and this was solved on page one so don't worry about it. I never thought that the piston or circlip was causing the flooding... You're ridiculous. keep with the timeline or just shut up. You're useless.

Dear Mitch,

You have hacked off at least a handfull of the regulars here in the past. Please forgive many of them if they're not jumping up to help you out.

That aside, the fuel only gets to the cylinder one way, and that is through the carb. I am sure there is no chance that you could have missed anything inside that carb. If I had rebuilt it, there might be a chance that it was assembled wrong. Sometimes I get distracted or interrupted entirely when working on a saw, which is why I double check things alot. If it is flooding and the carb cannot possibly be put together wrong, then the only option is to go to the dealer and get a new one. Should be somewhere in the $75 range. That is what they just quoted one of my tree service buddies the other day for a 260 carb anyway. Good luck.

Saw Dr

 

[watsonr]

Then why is it that every response you've gotten from this thread keeps telling you its the carb and what to do since it was solved on page one!

couldnt lean it out enough to keep it running

Carb!

The only thing I can come up with is perhaps its getting too much fuel from the carb???....any input would be appreciated.

You got plenty! Lets count shall we....

I tried 2 plugs although both were used. one bosch and one champion.

Not the plug.

Start it up with hemostats on the fuel line. If it runs great for a few secs release the stats and see if it loads up. That will point directly to over-fueling.

So i guess a carb rebuild is in order??

Yep, should have said thank you right here and went on your merry way.

no, its the opposite of that...lol. it fired with no filter on and with a pinched fuel line.

I tried a different diaphram out of another wt carb but switched it back when it didn't work.

Looks like were still digging for an answer by your post's

really? I'd rather not order a rebuild kit until I take the 5 minutes to pull the cylinder and see if the carb is worth fusing with. I don't keep carb rebuild kits around seeing as I have to use one every 50th saw or so....I've had a lot more scored pistons than failed carbs...

Pressure test the carb to see if it has an internal leak. If nothing is obvious and you have a pressure drop, do it in a bowl of water.

And another

REBUILD carb

And another

i disassembled the carb and cleaned it early in the game. I would have noticed if it was assembled incorrectly. Thanks though.

Still not convinced?!

So when I got it back it just flooded out and would not start so I reset the metering level of the needle and it poped right off..

Another saying its the carb and still giving advise because you haven't said "sounds good, I'll order a kit" OR thanks for the advise I may just take it this time or thanks, that worked...

Dear Mitch,

You have hacked off at least a handfull of the regulars here in the past. Please forgive many of them if they're not jumping up to help you out.

That aside, the fuel only gets to the cylinder one way, and that is through the carb. .

Saw Dr

Knock, knock... who's there?

Thanks Doc... have any aspirin?

 

[fastLeo151]

I am going through this with a 028 I had to switch carbs from a neighbors saw to fix the prob. I also rarely buy carb kits, i simply clean them. I am going to get a kit and try if before looking for a carb. can anybody explain what fails in a carb to make it flood all the time?

Btw I also pulled the p/c on mine before buying a kit so i could see with my own eyes everything was good. I always check further into a saw before spending any money on them. spending 12 bucks every time theres a prob can get spendy when you got 20+ saws.
good luck

Andrew

 

[powerking]

I'm starting to think the REAL issue here with my 028 is the carb now! Grant it, mine is not stock, but It floods out easily and drinks 93 like its 99 cents a gallon! i have a WT 16 on mine, funds don't allow for a new carb now, but some more experimenting is an order! I also don't know how well this saw ran before, when I got it, it had been staright gassed and was scored very badly!

 

[RalphJenner]

Very old thread but it got me sorted - in a way, knew I was trying the right things. Same model saw Stihl with WT carbie. In the end traced problem to one of three things. I did them all at once. Fitted very springy float diaphragm, lowered float arm by around half a millimeter, JUST below carb body level splines, and had a good look at the needle. Was coated in very fine ally cak. Swapped it for a new one , set low end to 1 1/4 turns same for top and of she went, Normal adjustment from there. Hope this helps.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not just Stihl saws, I have a junkie little 14" Homelite 33cc only a year or two old, only used a couple of times. A guy gave it to me. He had it in the shop and they couldn't figure out why it was flooding, or didn't want to. The case\cyl would fill with gas. If you let it sit overnight it won't start the next day till you turned up upside down and drained it. I must have taken this carb off 10 times and reset the metering lever. I have it running but still not totally right. I think its a malfunction with the carb itself. This saw is not worth buying a new carb, but I hope another one comes along to try just to put this to rest. Good luck with yours.

To tell you the truth when I'm using one of those junky little Super 2 saws on small to medium wood I can tell little difference between them and saws that cost hundreds more. Mine are a bit more than a few years old though and I keep them pretty well tuned. On big wood it's a different story though.

 

[XSKIER]

To tell you the truth when I'm using one of those junky little Super 2 saws on small to medium wood I can tell little difference between them and saws that cost hundreds more. Mine are a bit more than a few years old though and I keep them pretty well tuned. On big wood it's a different story though.

I concur. While the SUPER 2 is a neat concept, it was manufactured to be a low quality saw. It'd be like comparing a wild thing to a MS 241 C-M.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I concur. While the SUPER 2 is a neat concept, it was manufactured to be a low quality saw. It'd be like comparing a wild thing to a MS 241 C-M.

Yep, not high quality, just something for us homeowners to cut a few limbs with. A few years ago a Super 2 was the only saw I had for all my firewood cutting, now I just pull one out occasionally for the heck of it. I also have about three Poulan 25s which are fun to cut with on small stuff.