Friend of mine gave me an old saw to tinker with and see if I can get er goin. All the pieces are there and looks fairly simple. I noticed one flaw. A wire was used to pull the choke and seems that the wire was close enough to the stop switch, probably grounding out often. Compression seems too easy going as it doesnt have that tug tug but not too loose and also makes a klang noise with every revolution. Havnt pinpointed where thats coming from yet. I guess my question is, are these saws usually easy to pull and does someone know the proper way of adjusting the carb? Im sure all the idle and air screws were messed with.
Jonsered 535 acquired in pieces help
- Thread starter heathcom
- Start date
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I took off the carb and gave it a good cleaning. Was still in decent shape. Didnt appear to be any rip in the gaskets. I took a can of air and blew out all the holes made sure getting good flow. I put the straw of the air can into the intake nipple and blew out but when I did it to the other nipple it wouldnt allow any air in. Not sure if thats because of some vaccuum or its just a one way out. Anyways, I put it all back together, made sure I had spark, gave it a bunch of pulls but no sputter. I took off the spark plug to see if it was wet and it was bone dry. Appears no gas is getting into the piston chamber. Its either the output on the carb or maybe the piston ring? Since its easy to pull and maybe not allowing enough suction to suck the gas in?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
If the saw has been sitting, I'd say that you'll need to put a carb kit in it. The diaphragm is probaby stiff an isn't pumping fuel.
And those things really don't feel like they have a lot of compression, so unless it tests low, you might be OK.
And those things really don't feel like they have a lot of compression, so unless it tests low, you might be OK.
Thanks for the reply. The carb was a bit nasty and the diaphram was pretty stiff and had some rust build up on it. Im guessing its not pushing the needle to allow the gas flow. I'll try a rebuild kit.
While looking online for Walbro kits, theres a whole bunch of different types. On the carb it shows HDA, and some sets of numbers. 21-263-3-2. On the other side theres a small 52A and an M8. Most rebuild kits have the HDA model than a K** number. Do I go with the 21?
While looking online for Walbro kits, theres a whole bunch of different types. On the carb it shows HDA, and some sets of numbers. 21-263-3-2. On the other side theres a small 52A and an M8. Most rebuild kits have the HDA model than a K** number. Do I go with the 21?
Check [URL="http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product.asp?CategoryName=450&Series=HDA&partnum=HDA%2D52%2D1&GroupName=Saw&FamilyName=HUSQVARNA"]here[/URL].On right side of pic,they give you repair kit and gasket kit part #.Should be k22-HDA.
archibaldtuttle
ArboristSite Lurker
no grok how to find carb number
Hi-Octane:
your link is to a HDA-52-1
that would suggest that heathcom was right in using the number from the "other side" of the carb where there was a 52.
My carb is in the saw and I can read the numbers 21-283-3-3 off the cover (maybe the 8 is a 6 which would make it match heathcom's). But I'm not getting anywhere using that as a model number for the carb.
If the model number is actually on the opposite side I won't be able to read it without taking the carb out of the saw. It isn't intuitively apparent how to do that. The carb seems molded to a rubber boot on the cylinder side that is itself affixed to the cylinder entry by some kind of twisted off wire. I just see two twisted ends very close to the rubber. Not sure if they are sprung over each other and didn't want to try untwisting them unless that is the proper way. I would have expected some kind of clamp with a screw loosening feature but no such luck.
Do I need to pull the carb? If so how.
Thanks
Brian,
PS - saw is starting poorly, wanted to blow out the jets and maybe give a new diaphragm sheet. don't see any holes in the old one but it does look a little stretched and abraided or dissolved in its largest chamber. Assuming I knew which diaphragm and gasket set would be appropriate, can I do this without pulling the carb. It's nice that the top pops right off with the carb in place but not of much use if I can't effectively complete cleaning and gasket replacement on the saw.
Hi-Octane:
your link is to a HDA-52-1
that would suggest that heathcom was right in using the number from the "other side" of the carb where there was a 52.
My carb is in the saw and I can read the numbers 21-283-3-3 off the cover (maybe the 8 is a 6 which would make it match heathcom's). But I'm not getting anywhere using that as a model number for the carb.
If the model number is actually on the opposite side I won't be able to read it without taking the carb out of the saw. It isn't intuitively apparent how to do that. The carb seems molded to a rubber boot on the cylinder side that is itself affixed to the cylinder entry by some kind of twisted off wire. I just see two twisted ends very close to the rubber. Not sure if they are sprung over each other and didn't want to try untwisting them unless that is the proper way. I would have expected some kind of clamp with a screw loosening feature but no such luck.
Do I need to pull the carb? If so how.
Thanks
Brian,
PS - saw is starting poorly, wanted to blow out the jets and maybe give a new diaphragm sheet. don't see any holes in the old one but it does look a little stretched and abraided or dissolved in its largest chamber. Assuming I knew which diaphragm and gasket set would be appropriate, can I do this without pulling the carb. It's nice that the top pops right off with the carb in place but not of much use if I can't effectively complete cleaning and gasket replacement on the saw.
