Been having trouble with it. Took carb off today and cleaned it. I noticed the foam or rubber gasket that sits below the carb was gone. It needs that to run correctly am I right? Something to do with the pulse ?
I forgot to mention! did you check the fuel line and filter for failure/blockages ? fuel lines don't last forever and filter do block up. regards captain dangerousBeen having trouble with it. Took carb off today and cleaned it. I noticed the foam or rubber gasket that sits below the carb was gone. It needs that to run correctly am I right? Something to do with the pulse ?
All lines are brand new as is the fuel filter. I had the carb kitted at the same time. Ran good for a couple of hours when I brought it home but got progressively worse to the point it will start but but then dies. It can't be adjusted to keep it running.. I noticed the foam doughnut which sits under the Dophragm on the carb missing
Brand new coil. I called the saw shop who didthe work on it last year. I specifically asked that he check the crank seals when he worked on it. Today he says it sounds like the crank seals are bad. It only has a couple of hours of run time on It since I got it back from him. Obviously I didn't get what I paid for. It starts running like crap just sa soon as it starts warming upwhen it dies pull the plug out and check if it has a spark straight away as your coil my be burnt out ?
the crank seals wont be bad to change, and not expensive. as far as I'm aware, you don't need to split the cases? they can be done by removing the clutch and flywheel like Husqvarna. but I'm sure an expert will clarify? regards cdBrand new coil. I called the saw shop who didthe work on it last year. I specifically asked that he check the crank seals when he worked on it. Today he says it sounds like the crank seals are bad. It only has a couple of hours of run time on It since I got it back from him. Obviously I didn't get what I paid for. It starts running like crap just sa soon as it starts warming up
He said seals were no longer available. I already found new ones on eBay. Hope you're right about not having to split the case.
Will do thanks.be carful not to score the shafts where the seal lip runs, when removing the old seals and apply a little grease to the inside lip when fitting the new ones some people put a little smear of grease around the friction fit part to secure a good seal on the crank case. cd
He said seals were no longer available. I already found new ones on eBay. Hope you're right about not having to split the case.
Thanks and I will check. The fuel filter and carb rebuild only have few hours run time on them. It's been coming on for a while now. Just as it starts to warm up it starts dying. Hi revs when letting off throttle. Could be a lot of things but ive been thinking crankseals for sometime just by how it was acting. Bought it new over 20 years ago and it's been an absolute workhorse . New seals are on the way.
usually an early sign when seals start leaking is that the saw wont tick over properly, they race, which in turn due to the air leak creating a leaner mixture, the cylinders and piston get damaged. When you bought the saw did it have a scored cylinder and piston or had it been replaced? because if it has and the seals weren't? then there's your likely problem. for what the seals cost and take to fit , for peace of mind, at best they will cure it. at worst you can eliminate the seals as a possible cause. cdThis is the 670 champ. All lines are new. Gas tank is plastic and 1 piece ignition. I know for a fact the seals and o rings were not changed. He did get the hi idle problem fixed. I checked the screen in the carb. It was clean. I better get o rings on the way. I'll be surprised if the seals and o rings aren't the prob. Like I said it's gotten bad enough that just as soon as it starts to warm up it dies and then you can't keep it running. Is that a symptom of seals going bad?
if you bought it new and its an old saw now and it must have done a fair bit of work by now so I would assume its the seals. as far as the compression side goes it will only need a new piston ring, you will feel a significant difference in the way it pulls over with new seals in, if the old ones are warn. stick the seals in and give her ago, I've just been looking in my pile of unopened stock and there's a jony 630 in there, been there 3 months, haven't even looked at it yet, in fact to be honest, I forgot I had it ;o) cdBought it new. Saw shop did compression check and said it has some wear but good enough compression to last a while yet
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