Jonsered 670

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HUSKYMAN

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Any opinions or experience with saw? is it 70cc's? I have had a couple opportunities to get one and would like some input. thanks
 
Huskyman, the Jonsered 670 was one of my favorite saws until I got my 2171 of course....they are a very reliable and durable saw..easy to work on...and parts are so very easy to come by...You can use parts from the Jonsered 625 and 630..as well as the Husky 61(to an extent) 261, 266....I have several loggers here in town that were very dissapointed to see the saw come off the lineup....I actually just built two of them out of extra parts that I had....I have nothing but good things to say!!

66.8 cc/4.1 cu in
50mm bore
34mm stroke
max rpm 13500
max power 10000rpm
13.8 lbs dry
 
Hi There, a friend of mine has the 670 and he wont part with it. I think is is better than the Husky 266.. When I was in B.C. I knew some Finlanders that swore by them. Get the saw if you can, even if it needs work.
John
 
John you were too late. Dennis twisted my arm into buying it. Should have it by after Christmas. I think I paid close to top dollar for it but the saw is in great condition. All right now comes the fun. I already have a 16" bar with a brand new 72lg chain waiting for it. It comes with a 20" bar so I am set there. Will also need a bigger bar, probably 28" for the occasional large job. Should I use 72lg on that also? I would try Stihl chain but how many drive links would I need for a 28" bar? thanks

Also--How about the muffler on this bad boy. Should I dual port it like Johns 026? I dont want to get radical, Just help it breathe and stay cooler.

Finally it comes with a cover premade for a K&N type filter. Is it worth it to buy something like that?
 
Hi Huskyman, you have some of us green with envy now with your recent purchase. I would at least have your muffler done. This will give an instant 1/2 hp advantage. If you use the 28" bar it will require at least 92 drivers if you use an 8 tooth sprocket, but I would use a 7 tooth. I would think that the K&N filtre would give you more unresticted and cleaner air. Have fun with the great saw you purchased, you bought it from the right person.
John
 
Howdy,
Howdy,

Do me a favor, and don't screw up one of the finest saws to come around, by trying to racehorse a little more out of it. This machine will cut anything you care to walk up to, if you will learn to file the chain. I would suggest using it with a 3/8 professional chisel chain either LG or RS, makes little difference, but learn to file it correctly, and do not overly lower the depthgauges. You will find that the Carlton file-o-plate will make the perfect depthgauge tool, progressively lowering the depthgauge as the cutter is filed back, until at the end of life it will be at .035, which is plenty enough if the cutters are sharp.

Use a 7 tooth sprocket to get maximum torgue out of the unit, and minimum damage to the chain in severe contditions. Many people will convert these units to 8 tooth sprockets to get higher chain speed to cover for improper filing. This is the wrong way to go. This saw will do best if equipped with a professional sprocketnose bar of the best quality you can lay your hands on. Either Windsor, Oregon, or Stihl. Oregon has at least three different quality levels of bar, and I do recommend you spend the money and go for the top of the line. The saw will balance and perform best with a 20 inch in my opinion. This saw is not for prunning the rose bushes. You need to cut wood, as in serious. Otherwise it is a terrible waste of a really fine unit.

When it comes time to re-ring, you will find this saw to be a joy to work on (Should you live that long, or make a mistake and try to run with "only a small hole" in the airfilter).

Regards,
Walt Galer
 
Dont worry Walt, I wont hot rod her to the sky, I truly believe some light muffler and intake work will extend the life any stock saw. I have read your warnings about depth gauges in the past and almost never go more than .025. I think in my limited hand filing experience I have gotten fairly decent at it. Though at the revival it would be nice to get some first hand experience with it. John unfortunately I did not get the saw from Dennis but I did get it from another member of this forum. Though I am going to be counting on Dennis for some advice later I am sure:) .
Like I said though I dont want to pull a Ken Dunn and try to get 10hp, But I do want her to get up and talk!
 
Huskyman, you will be very pleased with that saw.....even stock they are a fantastic unit.....personally I like to try to get the 10hp like Ken...lol...but that is just me...I have a 630 hybrid here right now I am just finishing..waiting for the correct throttle linkage...this saw has a 266 crankcase...670 head and piston, 625 gas tank...side covers are Jonsered...with a Husky labelled bar...

regarding the #72 chain use....I am wondering about that...do all Huskies and Jonsereds (3/8) come stock with .050 guage chain and bars?? Here the biggest majority, and all the pro saws, come stock with .058 guage bars and chain.....:confused:
 
I am getting a little fuzzy here but I thought .058 chain was all .325", and 3/8 came in .050 and .063. Most of my experience has been with .325 so help me here a little. Also isnt .050 usually on say 20" or smaller and .063 on the longer chains?
 
570 jonsered

Hello Huskyman
You dont have to build 10 hp into it. just go for 6-7hp, just a good fallers saw .at least do the muffler and the inlet system.there's a lot of performance available. Chainsaw saw motors are detuned 2- cycle engines. Raising the port timing up to stock go kart settings will not harm the motor in any way.we do a lot of these motors for the fallers and if anything they last longer. Now stihl hot rodded the 066 at the factory with almost the same port timing figures as a stock kts-100 yahama kart engine. you dont see any premature engine failure with that saw. it cuts very fast. anyway it looks you got a nice saw.
ken
 
Ken you talk about port timing and pipes alot, but I dont hear too much about intake systems too much. Do you usually use a velocity stack? Do you use a K&N type filter with them? Or is it sufficient to use just a different filter. I dont want to get into carbs either.
 
alright..this is what we get here in Canada...*singing*...."the true north strong and free..." ...ok anyway....all our 3/8 Huskies and Jonsereds come with .058 gauge with the exception of smaller saws that run a 3/8 low profile...#91 in Oregon....our .325 Husky and Jonnys are .050.....and Stihls, in 3/8 , are .050....as well as their .325.....we do have a ripping chain available to us as well....is either 3/8 regular (73r) or 3/8 low pro (91r) for a lower curf(sp?)......is this not the norm for our fellow Americans?
 
3/8 low pro is .050. The Stihl crap is .043, IMO the worst chain avail today. My 55 has .325 .058 gauge (34lg) I am sure. I really like that chain. Havent bought any new saws with 3/8 on it. Tundraotto what did your 372 come with.
 
Hey Huskyman,I saw that you just bought a 670 on Ebay.I think I ran that saw.I think the idiot that sold it super glued the broken crankshaft back together along with the broken engine case.LOL
I just looked for you and it has 50 gauge chain on it.If you are not happy with the way that saw works,I will give you back what you paid for it and also pay the return shipping.
Dan
 
Thanks Dan, but I dont think the guy that sold it is an idiot. And as long as you used Crazy Glue everything should be fine:D . The .050 gauge should be fine for the 20" bar, but for the 28" I plan on getting I will get .063 for less stretching. The two can be interchanged without changing the sprocket, right? I know the bar will have to be the right gauge.
 
One more question about this model--was this one of the last designs Jonsered produced before being taken over by Electrolux and having basically the same saws as Husqvarna, or as is said in Dennis's post is this the same basic design as the Husky 266? Thanks.
 
Huskyman...if I recall correctly..the 600 series Jonsereds started around 1982 with the 630....Electrolux took over Jonsered in about 1990-1991....they continued making the 600 series up until last year....there are still a few brand new 625's around..but hard to find....

-Dennis
 
Hi Huskyman, there is a World Class Hotsaw man in California that says it is ok to run a 1.5 mm chain in a 1.6 mm bar. This may give you added lubrification advantage, but the bar and chain must not be worn excessively.
John
 
Hello to all.
I don't know all the differences but it appears to have the same crank&rod of the 268 Husky and the piston of a 266, as well as sharing some misc small parts. The cylinder and crankcase are different.
But being a newbie to the saw world I will defer to those of greater knowledge
 

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