Jonsered 670

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I'm Curious!

How in the heck is running a 1.5mm gauge (.050) chain in a 1.6mm (.058) gauge bar supposed to improve lubrication? I would say the effect should be exactly the opposite!

Personally, if I am trying to milk the max out of a chain and bar, I regauge the bar to called gauge plus .002 to no more than .004. In no way should the next gauge fit, that's reject wear limit for a used bar.

You regauge a bar by tapping the groove down to slightly tight, and then grinding the groove out with a wheel that is called gauge plus .003 for about 2/3 of it's diameter. (Wheels vary a lot).
This operation requires a Hunziker Bar Shop machine and an operator who knows how to do it. The practice is extreemly dangerous, but the result is a heck of a lot better than a new bar.
Almost no-one goes to the trouble to properly re-gauge a guide bar anymore! (Kind of like getting a shop to properly sharpen a sawchain).

In addition, I tighten up the chain articulation just a bit for most chains. The manufacturing tolerance are too loose, if you can extend 20 inches of chain off of the edge of a table top, hold the rivet heads on the section left on the table down flush with the table surface securely, and then you observe the "droop" of the free end to exceed about 12 inches. Many manufactured chains will be far looser than this amount.

You can tighten up a chain assembly a might, but it requires great care. You just respin using a bench spinner, and press the turn or two of the spin enough to head the rivet down a might more. If you overdo the press, the rivet will expand down inside the flange, split the flange (which may already be split from the factory rivet heattreat by the way) and produce a tight joint that can not be repaired without replacement of the part. Because of this problem, this procedure is not recommended for general practice. The lower rivet head contour that results also helps improve cutting speed slightly.

Regards,
Walt Galer
 
huskyman - sorry for the delay in my reply. my 372 came with a 24" powermatch plus in the .050 gauge + 2 loops of LG in the same. After talking to the guys at madsens they emphasised that one should generally use the smallest gauge they can for the length of their bar as this saves chain weight and improves performance (ie. quicker throttle response). i dont think i'd go any longer with .050 than a 24" although i have had no problems.
Cheers.
 
I see what you mean about running narrower chain, but like I said I dont like the chain stretch of .050. I want to go 28" because I already have a 20" and it is not worth the expense to me to only gain 4" of reach. Guys please give me some feedback, should I go with .050 or .058 or .063 on a 3/8 pitch 28" bar. Thanks
 
Huskyman, I am not really in the league with you guys but here goes. I use a 28"husky bar on my 288XP Lite with no trouble. Chain stretch has not been a problem. I use a lot of the stihl chain but also use the 72LG. The 28" bar for extra reach is great. You can limb without even bending over. Oh, by the way I missed out on that 262XP we were talking about last week. I looked at the 357XP but I did not like the overall construction, translucient gas tank, the plastic clips that hold the top cover, chain brake attachment method on the sprocket side or the choke/kill switch. I just took to long to make up my mind and the 262 was sold. I have one already and to me its the better saw. One day I'll find another. Go for the 28" bar.
 
my 360 homelite stretched one chain so much that i had to take 2 links out of it to make it so i could actually tension the 24" bar on it. and people say homelites are guttless.
 
Huskyman, that was .050 gauge in the 72LP on the 28" bar mounted on the 288XP Lite powerhead. I have had no problems.I don't know if this helps?
 
I`m sure that someone will step forward to correct me if I`m wrong, so listen up boys. .050 and .058 gauge chain is identical in construction. The thickness of all components is the same with the exception of the drive tangs which all start as .058 and then are ground down to .050 for that particular gauge. There is no chain stretch advantage to using .058. Take a look at some 72LG next to some 73LG. I have also heard many times about the lower unsprung weight of .050 gauge causing you to cut faster, but how much weight could we possibly be talking about. Who`s to say that the extra weight of the .058, once at cutting speed, doesn`t impart some sort of flywheel effect, helping you maintain speed in the cut? .063 on the other hand is a heavier chain all the way around. It should provide for alot less stretch, but how much stretch are you guys getting anyway? When I first started sawing I always had to have a link removed from each chain before I could use up the whole tooth. Now that I am older, wiser, and lazier, I have learned chain maintenance to the extent that I can file 73LG down to the witness marks on the topplate and still have room on the adjuster. I think it all comes down to proper sharpening and lube. Russ:confused:
 
Thats the kind of response I was looking for, thanks Russ. So does anyone use .063 on a bar as short as 28" or would I be wasting money getting the heavier gauge. Also I take it 73LG is the .063 version of 72LG?
 
Hi Huskyman, 72 is 50 thou., 73 = 58 thou., and 75 is .063. One advantage to starting with a .050 bar, is that a .058 chain can be eventually fit when the bar is worn to that tolerance, however extreme caution must be exercised to make sure it does fit freely or the crank can be broken.
Hope this helps
 
Well john you would know. You use 33RS which is .050. I know you use it on the 372 with the 16inch bar, do you use it on anything bigger and have you had any problems?
 
Hi Huskyman,I have used 73LG on bars up to 32" with no problems that I could recognize. I use 73 vs 72 because I got started on it when all the Huskies I bought had .058 bars. I like to have as few bar/chain variables as possible because I need to live by KISS. Keep it simple.... Just last night I picked up a bar for a 345 I just got for the right price. The factory bar is only good for the lo pro chain I was told. At any rate, you can only get the upgraded bar in, you guessed it, .058. 34LG here I come. Russ
 
Hi Huskyman, although I use 34RS or 73LG on my Huskies, I have used 33RS on the Huskies with a Stihl bar that requires an adapter to make it fit. There may be nil to no avantage to the 3 different gauges other than the chip clearing and larger oil channel that the larger gauge offers. In the final analisis it doesnt seem to make any noticable difference, regardless of bar length.
John
 
Huskyman:
I use .063 on my chainsaws. Now for the eternal beating, my 029 is used to cut hedge ( osage orange ) and I dont have a problem with chain stretch. Hedge is the hardest and best burning firewood in this part of the country and not everybody likes to cut it due to extreme bar and chain wear. Just my two cents worth.

Mike:cool:
 
John:
If you want to try something good with hedge, get a pork loin or a good sized roast, and cook it up in a smoker with the heart wood sliced up in small chips. Best stuff you ever had.

Mike:blob2:
 
something like the blackjack trees over here - not fun to cut unless you have the neighbours saw!!!! sparks flying off the bar does not make one happy - its one tough sob - i never thought of the cooking potential??? is there any?? this is the hardest tree i have ever cut - is hedge even harder? hard to imagine if it is.
 
I own a 670 and have got almost 10 years of reliability out of her so far. I've also owned a 272 Husky which I sold to a friend after I hopped up the 670. Though he loves the saw I sold him, he is always disappointed when we put the saws head to head. Huskyman, instead of saying you love orange and now, red, you should say you love Electrolux.
 
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