Jonsered Chainsaws

[sawfun9]

a couple of nice little jonny's

Comparing a Jonsereds 80 with a 111S View attachment 211027
Jonsereds 80 with a 90 top end and a 24" roller nose bar and a 111S with a 42" barView attachment 211028

 

[cambl]

New find, triple 670s

Look what landed on my tailgate. The 670 Champ is going to run pretty easily. The other two need some work... might become parts on the Swap Meet thread.View attachment 211586

 

[cambl]

670 serial numbers

I did a little searching but could not find a "legend" to figure out the year of some newer 670s. All of them have the newer black serial # tag, so wondering what year these would be ...

2360314
9360049
0202334

Thank you.

 

[taplinhill]

I did a little searching but could not find a "legend" to figure out the year of some newer 670s. All of them have the newer black serial # tag, so wondering what year these would be ...

2360314
9360049
0202334

Thank you.

314th built in the 36th week of 1992
49th built in the 36th week of 1989
2334th built in the 20th week of 1990

 

[Mo. Jim]

314th built in the 36th week of 1992
49th built in the 36th week of 1989
2334th built in the 20th week of 1990

That info is worth a rep,enjoy

 

[cambl]

314th built in the 36th week of 1992
49th built in the 36th week of 1989
2334th built in the 20th week of 1990

Great, thanks.

How would we know that the 1989 model is not 1999?

 

[taplinhill]

Great, thanks.

How would we know that the 1989 model is not 1999?

Well for one, they stopped making the 670 in 1997.
And the 1999's would be something like this: 99 010001
FYI:
They started the black tag in 1987.
1997's say 1997 above the serial
1998's are like the 1997's

 

[cambl]

Saving a 670

Here are before and after pics of a really hammered 670 that now runs again, using parts I had or was able to swap for. We have a pop-riveted sheet metal reinforced top cover, patched up muffler, new(er) piston/cylinder, epxoy/taped rear handle, and a full wrap handle modified to half wrap.

And a whole lot of clean up. Runs great!

 

[Cantdog]

630 West Coast about a far as it can get from there and still be here!!!LOL

My "new to me" 630 West Coast arrived yesterday. This saw I got off ebay and looked about as nice in person as it looked in the pics. I kind of went over it, dressed and squared the bar, filed the chain...all seemed well so I gased and oiled and stepped outside. It started right up on the third pull ..seemed to idle OK and spooled right up so I grabbed a carb screwdriver and went off to the woodpile. Made a couple of cuts and it ran well and cut OK. I didn't know what to expect as I have never used a full skip chain but it did good. The idle got real screwy...would idle way to fast and when you gassed it it would idle down and stall. Of course I expected the worst...back to the shop and off came the covers. I started checking the throttle as it seemed to be sticking....while I was fussing with it I noticed that the throttle shaft was able to be moved back and forth (left and right) much more than it should so off came the carb. It has the large 630 carb (225A) and on inspection of the throttle itself I found that the screw that holds the throttle plate in place was about 2 turns loose.....allowing the plate to silde back and forth in the adjustment slot. EEEEKK!!!! I cleaned everything up good and put a drop of ble loctite on the threads and put a good tighten on it. Man talk about "in-th-nick of time"!!!!! The saw is very sweet and runs great and idles fine now. It is a very very low hr saw...the wear points that are common on these saws are nonexistant....machine marks are still very much visible on the piston. Some pics to follow...

 

[Cantdog]

Couple more

 

[cambl]

Cantdog

Nice 630! Those are great saws and probably my favorite. With a little work they can pull almost like a 670, and they don't have that nasty boot and pulse line setup.

I'm looking at an early 630 Super on CL but the guy wants $325 and it's the wrong time of year for that!

 

[Cantdog]

Cantdog

Nice 630! Those are great saws and probably my favorite. With a little work they can pull almost like a 670, and they don't have that nasty boot and pulse line setup.

I'm looking at an early 630 Super on CL but the guy wants $325 and it's the wrong time of year for that!

Thanks....The 630 can be made to pull much better...the ported SuperII in my sig is the happiest turning 14,400 and will really zip through hardwood up to 16"-18". I am building a 630 right now that will be identicle to the 61/268XP in my sig which is an awsome saw, except it will be the proper color. Here are a couple pics of this build in progress. The cases are done and the top end components are just dry fit in these pics to make sure I have all the correct bits and they fit together well.

 

[cambl]

Using a 268XP P/C kit? What does it look like, and does it use a intake block or the boot? Thanks.

Oh and that saw stand- used to have one that dissapeared. What brand is that?

 

[Cantdog]

Using a 268XP P/C kit? What does it look like, and does it use a intake block or the boot? Thanks.

Oh and that saw stand- used to have one that dissapeared. What brand is that?

The 268XP setup uses the block. I tap into the impulse corridor in it to pick up the impulse using a fuel line inlet nipple from an older Tillotson carb. Or you can bore the carb body for the impluse and replace the top cover of the carb with one without the impulse pickup. The hole is already started in the end of the carb so you just have to be careful not to overbore!!

I got that stand of ebay from a going out of business saw shop in the PNW....no idea what brand...not a mark to be seen anywhere and I've looked it over hard trying to find out where to get another. It works great!! I lucked out and picked this one off for $90.00 delivered.

 

[Chris J.]

A stupid question :msp_ohmy::

When using that type of saw stand, do you worry about (ever a problem with) the weight of the saw putting too much stress on the bar studs?

 

[8433jeff]

A stupid question :msp_ohmy::

When using that type of saw stand, do you worry about (ever a problem with) the weight of the saw putting too much stress on the bar studs?

I wouldn't as there would be more torque on them while cutting wood, with the longer bar. Maybe in a plastic case, but even then it should take it.

 

[rburg]

I like the looks of the 630 you have.I have had a 625 and a 670 and think that series of saws is one of the best. How does the 630 compare to the 625 and 670 powerwise in actual use? I hope one of these days to get to try one out.

 

[almondgt]

The 268XP setup uses the block. I tap into the impulse corridor in it to pick up the impulse using a fuel line inlet nipple from an older Tillotson carb. Or you can bore the carb body for the impluse and replace the top cover of the carb with one without the impulse pickup. The hole is already started in the end of the carb so you just have to be careful not to overbore!!

I got that stand of ebay from a going out of business saw shop in the PNW....no idea what brand...not a mark to be seen anywhere and I've looked it over hard trying to find out where to get another. It works great!! I lucked out and picked this one off for $90.00 delivered.

Thought I was just finishing my Jonsered 670 conversion using a 268xp top end until I read this post. The carb I am using is the Jonsered 670 recirculating style carb ( 2 fuel lines that travel to the fuel tank) . I changed the top on this Jonsered 670 carb so it doesn't have the impulse line anymore. I will drill the bore on the Jonsered 670 carb body for the impulse to function. I compared the Jonsered 670 carb to a Husqvarna 272xp carb I have and it appears the main idea is to drill straight and not to far in.

 

[Cantdog]

I like the looks of the 630 you have.I have had a 625 and a 670 and think that series of saws is one of the best. How does the 630 compare to the 625 and 670 powerwise in actual use? I hope one of these days to get to try one out.

The 630s fall roughly halfway between the 625 and 670......the 630, though the same ccs as the 625 is much more powerful than the 625 due to the closed port cyl and windowed piston as opposed to the open port slab side piston of the 625. With the supers and super II being a bit more powerful even still.

 

[Cantdog]

Thought I was just finishing my Jonsered 670 conversion using a 268xp top end until I read this post. The carb I am using is the Jonsered 670 recirculating style carb ( 2 fuel lines that travel to the fuel tank) . I changed the top on this Jonsered 670 carb so it doesn't have the impulse line anymore. Do I need to bore the carb body for the impulse to function inside the Jonsered 670 carb to be compatible with the 268 xp top end? If so, do you have a picture of the location I need to drill a hole?

I don't have a pic at this time, but the impulse hole should already be started in the throttle end of the carb (top right ..1:00... looking at the throttle plate), so you can use this as a guide. You have to drill in until you hit the verticle shaft that would be directly under the impulse pickup on the 670 carb top. As I said though, on my 61/268XP conversion with the 250A (also a recirc) carb I just picked up my impulse off the plastic isolation block using a fuel intake nipple from a tillotson off a 49sp. Either way will work..boring the carb can be tricky...but boring the manifold has to be acccurate as well. If you chose to bore the manifold, keep the fitting closer to the carb than the cyl because of interference with the partition in the top cover.