Jonsered Chainsaws

[SawTroll]

...... The 920 I had was standard Husky - why did they change?
And the muff is sad. Someone has given it a redneck mod so I am on the look out for a better replacement. What other models would fit?
Anyway, it was fun to cut some wood with it. Very strong indeed.

Other than that muff, you have a nice saw there! I don't recall the bar mount ever changing, should have always been the D176. I suppose someone could have used a Husky mount and opened up the slot?

Any 820/830/920 muffler should fit. Somebody out there must have a decent one, but then again most of the pro cutters couldn't leave the muffler alone.

The bar mount should either be D024 (old Jonsereds) or D009 (large Husky - after production was moved to the Husky factory), not D176.
D176 bars often fit on D024 studs though, maybe you have to widen the slot a little, and often are used as replacements.

D009 bars can be adapted as well, but the slot have to be opened more to fit the D024 studs.

 

[cambl]

Ran across a 621 that I have only seen pics of but it is supposed to be complete and running. I may go look at it tomorrow, but I don't need another project right now.

Anyone interested?

Update: I thought this one was going to be a basket case, but turns out it is a very nice compete runner. I need to focus on other saw projects, so this one is posted in the classifieds if anyone has been looking for one.

 

[timberdollars]

2051 2054

Just completed the rebuild on a 2054, complete including bearings, seals, piston, oil, pump. Saw was a Decomp EPA 46mm, 1997, Turned out good runs great, pictured with my 2051 with wrong recoil cover, (says 2055)

Note: anyone rebuilding these , make sure you put the proper screw (with point) back into the hole on top of oil pump, between case halves. it holds the pump shaft down. If you don't NO oil and complete cylinder removal is required. Ask me how I know this!!!!!!

Duane

 

[cambl]

Just completed the rebuild on a 2054, complete including bearings, seals, piston, oil, pump. Saw was a Decomp EPA 46mm, 1997, Turned out good runs great, pictured with my 2051 with wrong recoil cover, (says 2055)

Note: anyone rebuilding these , make sure you put the proper screw (with point) back into the hole on top of oil pump, between case halves. it holds the pump shaft down. If you don't NO oil and complete cylinder removal is required. Ask me how I know this!!!!!!

Duane

Looks good Duane, always nice to see a couple of clean Jonys side by side. Is the 590H making chips yet?

 

[timberdollars]

590

Looks good Duane, always nice to see a couple of clean Jonys side by side. Is the 590H making chips yet?

Oh yah its making chips, gotta take it back apart though looks like the ring is catching on the corner of the exguast outlet, no biggy I'll clean it up and install another ring. I didn't need the P/C mine weren't bad at all, just one small scratch on the side.

Duane

 

[apse]

 

[JRepairsK70e]

sweet old j red is that a 20 inch bar ?

 

[Cantdog]

Nice and very fresh too from the looks!! Sweet Saw!!

 

[Modifiedmark]

The bar mount should either be D024 (old Jonsereds) or D009 (large Husky - after production was moved to the Husky factory), not D176.
D176 bars often fit on D024 studs though, maybe you have to widen the slot a little, and often are used as replacements.

D009 bars can be adapted as well, but the slot have to be opened more to fit the D024 studs.

Hey Nikko, you feeling ok?

I know you know better then what you just said here.

A D176 Poulan/Echo mount is only a 8mm slot, no way is it fitting any D024 10mm studs without alot of fileing. The D009 is a 9mm slot and would have to be opened up less then the D176 mount.

I think your confusing the Homelite D096 mount with a supposed 3/8" or 9.5mm slot.

I plan on having my 920 converted very soon to 9mm studs so I dont have to go through the BS of having 10mm bars here for it.

 

[Whiskers]

Jonsereds 80 Crank Seal

I've got a leaky seal on the clutch side of the Jreds 80 I'm almost finished bringing back to life. Any idea where I can get one. I'll eventually try in the BST section, but thought I'd try here first. Thanks

 

[bama]

I've got a leaky seal on the clutch side of the Jreds 80 I'm almost finished bringing back to life. Any idea where I can get one. I'll eventually try in the BST section, but thought I'd try here first. Thanks

You can get them from an auto parts store, but I don't have the measurements for it. One of the other guys will jump in and help you on that. Sorry I am not more help.

 

[PB]

Does anyone know if Meteor or Episan make a non-windowed piston for a Jonsered 625? I can't find the part number in any of my IPL's, and everything I have found is for a windowed piston.

 

[almondgt]

Not positive but I think the Husqvarna 61 non windowed piston should be a direct fit for the Jonsered 625.:msp_biggrin:

 

[Cantdog]

Not positive but I think the Husqvarna 61 non windowed piston should be a direct fit for the Jonsered 625.:msp_biggrin:

Yes it is......the windowed 48mm ones are for the 630...

 

[Cantdog]

I've got a leaky seal on the clutch side of the Jreds 80 I'm almost finished bringing back to life. Any idea where I can get one. I'll eventually try in the BST section, but thought I'd try here first. Thanks

Hey Wiskers Here is what you need......15 mm X 30MM X 7MM double lipped seal...this is the size but there are other brands but this one works super for me on all the older Jonsereds. Any bearing supply house can get these. Just buy the best brand you can get don't cheep out.... and you might just as well do the flywheel side at the same time 'cause they are most likely the same age and if one is gone the other will be right behind it. Just more work and another $7-8.00...

 

[Whiskers]

Thanks a ton Cantdog, that's what I needed to know.

 

[PB]

Not positive but I think the Husqvarna 61 non windowed piston should be a direct fit for the Jonsered 625.:msp_biggrin:

Yes it is......the windowed 48mm ones are for the 630...

Thanks guys! That is what I thought until I started researching the 61 pistons and found 3 or 4 different variations. Hopefully I will get it figured out. The piston I have still has the machine marks on it but it is pretty beat up, not bad, but would feel better with a new one. Someone took it apart and left the piston exposed and it looks like it got knocked around pretty good.

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks guys! That is what I thought until I started researching the 61 pistons and found 3 or 4 different variations. Hopefully I will get it figured out. The piston I have still has the machine marks on it but it is pretty beat up, not bad, but would feel better with a new one. Someone took it apart and left the piston exposed and it looks like it got knocked around pretty good.

Northwoods lists 1 for the 625 48MM SKU P667 and several for the 61 but that's probably the one you want.

 

[Whiskers]

Jonsered 80 Flywheel stuck

Alright, I've got the correct seals, thanks for the advise Cantdog. Clutch side came apart with the puller I fabbed up, but the flywheel is a different story. I've managed to pull the threads out of one of the 5MM threaded holes in the flywheel in an effort to pull it. Is there any problem with tapping them out a little larger, 6MM?

I've researched all the tricks to get the flywheel to pop, and tried them all. I'm going to have to resort to prolonged pressure with the puller and periodic tapping and penetrating oil to see if it will eventually give up. I'm not a very patient person, so we'll see what happens.

By the way, here's a before and after pic of the saw. As soon as I get the last seal in I'll be good to go, trick is not breaking anythign in the process.

 

[Cantdog]

Nice 80 Wiskers..did you get that off ebay??? It looks familiar...I would see no problem retapping the holes but one word of caution...there are things to damage in there. I would reach down through the hole with a length of wire (12-2) or something similar to "sound" for the deepest part of the interior and only work with the flywheel in that position, which will probably be around 2 o'clock looking at the flywheel. You will need to use all three holes/w bolts to pull with and make certain that the bolts don't extend below the inner side of the flywheel. If you have a 3 way puller, fine if you don't you can fab one out a piece of 1/4" plate. You may have to cut the bolts be be the correct length. Put the flywheel nut on the threads to protect them and you can also adjust the height of your puller with it as well, if it seems your bolts are extending to far. Take a good strain and a smart rap with a hammer should pop it right off.