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JRED 49sp question

Picked up a real nice 49sp from a member. As my usual steps I like to look at the internals. Just nosey I guess. I did notice that when I squeeze the throttle there is still about 1/8in. or so movement left in the carb throttle lever. Seems there is a metal bar in the handle stopping the throttle lever from moving forward further. Is this a manuf. design? If so how do you get max rpm's from saw? Carb also looks like a bear to remove due to the screws being inside the (black)intake tube w/o much room to work. Just though I'd ask the JRED guys. Thanks
Bob
 
redunshee said:
Picked up a real nice 49sp from a member. As my usual steps I like to look at the internals. Just nosey I guess. I did notice that when I squeeze the throttle there is still about 1/8in. or so movement left in the carb throttle lever. Seems there is a metal bar in the handle stopping the throttle lever from moving forward further. Is this a manuf. design? If so how do you get max rpm's from saw? Carb also looks like a bear to remove due to the screws being inside the (black)intake tube w/o much room to work. Just though I'd ask the JRED guys. Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

If you pull straight up on the black tube it will slide right off. Underneath that is a metal plate that is much easier to access. You will need an 8mm wrench to get the bolts out. The metal throttle bar should be sliding through a little plastic piece on the right side of the carb. If that is mounted upside down you will not be able to get max RPM's. First try flipping that piece upside down and see if that helps.
 
PB said:
If you pull straight up on the black tube it will slide right off. Underneath that is a metal plate that is much easier to access. You will need an 8mm wrench to get the bolts out. The metal throttle bar should be sliding through a little plastic piece on the right side of the carb. If that is mounted upside down you will not be able to get max RPM's. First try flipping that piece upside down and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

Great tip thanks. However its not the metal throttle bar that slides through the plastic guide that is the problem. It does as you describe. I was referring to the horizontal metal piece that's attached to the rear handle with screws. The throttle lever itself stops at this bar so the rod won't open the carb lever fully.
Bob
 
670 to 268 update and run-in

Finished up the 670 to 268 top end/ top cover conversion last week and ran 5 tanks of fuel through it today falling and bucking up some 14-16" oak. It ran flawlessly once it was dialed in and the air filter and airbox were pretty much spotless after a full morning of cutting.

I really like this setup... think I might do another one.

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Cantdog said:
As I said earlier...a great family of saws to work with!! But I can tell you the XP cyl ported will really put a smile on your face if you like the Gillardoni cyl!!
Click to expand...

Oh yes I believe that, but $75 for the Italian P/C fit the budget!
 
That sure is a pretty 670 you have there - great work.
I do not have much inventiveness to show but as I am slow getting round to cleaning up my 1020 I thought I would show the 930 I picked up last month. It appears to be well used and I was expecting it to need a lot of work. I was waiting on a filter and just got around to pulling it down and rebuilding it. Well the good news is I did not even put a set of rings in her. Compression is 155 lbs and the jug is clean. I cannot believe how clean this saw was - absolutely nothing to do. All the AV's fine, the carb spotless, not a mark under the sprocket cover. A disappointment is the 20 inch bar - but it came with two chains, one brand new. It has a weird bar stud and the only bars that I have to fit are from my big Poulans. The 920 I had was standard Husky - why did they change?
And the muff is sad. Someone has given it a redneck mod so I am on the look out for a better replacement. What other models would fit?
Anyway, it was fun to cut some wood with it. Very strong indeed.

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Al.
 
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Nardoo said:
That sure is a pretty 670 you have there - great work.
I do not have much inventiveness to show but as I am slow getting round to cleaning up my 1020 I thought I would show the 930 I picked up last month. It appears to be well used and I was expecting it to need a lot of work. I was waiting on a filter and just got around to pulling it down and rebuilding it. Well the good news is I did not even put a set of rings in her. Compression is 155 lbs and the jug is clean. I cannot believe how clean this saw was - absolutely nothing to do. All the AV's fine, the carb spotless, not a mark under the sprocket cover. A disappointment is the 20 inch bar - but it came with two chains, one brand new. It has a weird bar stud and the only bars that I have to fit are from my big Poulans. The 920 I had was standard Husky - why did they change?
And the muff is sad. Someone has given it a redneck mod so I am on the look out for a better replacement. What other models would fit?
Anyway, it was fun to cut some wood with it. Very strong indeed.

Other than that muff, you have a nice saw there! I don't recall the bar mount ever changing, should have always been the D176. I suppose someone could have used a Husky mount and opened up the slot?

Any 820/830/920 muffler should fit. Somebody out there must have a decent one, but then again most of the pro cutters couldn't leave the muffler alone.
Click to expand...
 
cambl said:
Finished up the 670 to 268 top end/ top cover conversion last week and ran 5 tanks of fuel through it today falling and bucking up some 14-16" oak. It ran flawlessly once it was dialed in and the air filter and airbox were pretty much spotless after a full morning of cutting.

I really like this setup... think I might do another one.

attachment.php

attachment.php
Click to expand...

I am getting ready to do the 670 to 268 conversion also. What did you use for a carb?
 
Nardoo said:
It has a weird bar stud and the only bars that I have to fit are from my big Poulans. The 920 I had was standard Husky - why did they change
Click to expand...

Nice 930. Mine always turns heads.

Far as the studs, the 920 you had was the odd duck. You could buy replacement Husky studs to use the modern mount--the 2094/2095 were all large Husky mount. My 930 came to me converted, and also has a spring for top AV mount--have never figured what parts were used to set it that way. If you can find 2094/95 studs, you may be able to convert you 930.

Chris B.
 
nhlogga said:
I am getting ready to do the 670 to 268 conversion also. What did you use for a carb?
Click to expand...

I had an old (new) early model 670 carb that had the impulse though the boot, so I didn't have to do anything other than rebuild it. There is some info another member posted in this thread about drilling the impule passage on the standard 670 carb and swaping the carb top cover to the 630 type. Easy to do.
 
520sp

Need some help from the J-red guys.Picked up a 520sp on ebay,doesn't seem to have the oiler hose inside tank. How big of a project is this? I have the hose already, looks like a tear down to get it in. Any help or comments would be appreciated! Thanks guys
 
Chris J. said:
Like a 111S is not going to get noticed by us Jonsered nuts :msp_blink:.




How many running 111Ss have you seen recently :confused: :)?
Click to expand...

Just 2. One belongs to a member here, and one belongs to a Stihl dealer I frequent. Which may be for sale, with a much longer bar.
 
fulstrut said:
Need some help from the J-red guys.Picked up a 520sp on ebay,doesn't seem to have the oiler hose inside tank. How big of a project is this? I have the hose already, looks like a tear down to get it in. Any help or comments would be appreciated! Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Well you picked a good one! Either someone put the saw back together and forgot the oil pickup, said "oh crap" and sold it to you, or the oil hose broke off inside and they pulled it out throught the oil fill cap.

If I remember right you have a complete teardown to do. You'll need to replace the other rubbler line that goes from the pump to the bar pad anyway. once you have the cylinder/case split you can see what is going on with the oil pump.

Have fun! Send pics!
 

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