Just got a Homelite Super XL Automatic but have a few questions

[GeorgiaVol]

Hey guys, Im new here and thought this would be a good place to start. I picked up this chainsaw for $8. All it needed was a pull cord. I replaced that and it cranked in just 3 pulls. Now It needs a new bar. It has a 16" bar on it now, but I was thinking of going up to an 18". I dont know much about chainsaws, will that put too much strain on the saw. I only need it to cut a few trees and buck firewood for my heater. Just a couple of the trees are kinda large at the base. Any help would be appreciated. Also does anyone know approx. how old this saw is?

 

[watsonr]

The red XL's started in 71', they were blue before that and finished in 81'. They are good firewood saws and run like crazy. 58cc and had automatic oiler's in the later productions. The saw was sold with up-to a 20" from the factory and 16" was probably more typical, it will pull an 18" with ease.

Probably wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel line and filter. If it has trouble keeping up at WOT or seems to not run right, it may need a carb kit too. Parts are everywhere and that was probably the #1 selling saw of all time! Bar and chain can be had at HD/Lowes still today, your local saw shop probably stocks them too.

My favorite old school saw, run mine quite a bit, cut hundreds of cords of wood with one!

Welcome and that was a nice find by the way, you will enjoy it!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Mine has a 20" bar on it and pulls it easily. I think I could even go to a 24 but won't because of price. If you're going to an 18" might as well go ahead and put a 20 on it.

 

[oldsaw]

Still one of my favorites. I paid $20 for mine, but it was a bit prettier. Good job. Fix it up and run it like you stole it.

 

[TonyRumore]

My dad used to run a 24" bar on his back in the early 80's. I ran it quite a bit myself and don't recall it having any trouble pulling it.....but then again, it was rarely buried in 24" wood.

Tony

 

[Mad Professor]

I ran one with a 24" bar and dropped/bucked a 52" white ash . Was not fast but those old homies do have a lot of grunt.

I think that tree gave 4-5 cords of wood

 

[jackstock394]

I ran one with a 24" bar and dropped/bucked a 52" white ash . Was not fast but those old homies do have a lot of grunt.

I think that tree gave 4-5 cords of wood

Those are tough old saws,i had one i got at a yard sale for 15 bucks 18inch bar, used it as a backup saw for years. Gave it to a friend to use for a hunting camp saw and it still runs.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Why do you think it needs a new bar? That one doesn't look too bad. They can be serviced, you know..

 

[Eccentric]

Hey guys, Im new here and thought this would be a good place to start. I picked up this chainsaw for $8. All it needed was a pull cord. I replaced that and it cranked in just 3 pulls. Now It needs a new bar. It has a 16" bar on it now, but I was thinking of going up to an 18". I dont know much about chainsaws, will that put too much strain on the saw. I only need it to cut a few trees and buck firewood for my heater. Just a couple of the trees are kinda large at the base. Any help would be appreciated. Also does anyone know approx. how old this saw is?

18" is my favorite bar length on these saws. They will run 24" (within limits) but they're much happier, and balance better with 18-20" bars. The whole "they switched to red from blue in 19XX" thing has been argued to death. I won't get into it (yet again). The auto oiler was available in certain versions of this saw starting in 1965. I have a 1965 dated IPL which has both parts breakdowns.

Some were manual only (XL12, Super XL12). Some were auto only (XL12-Automatic and XL-Automatic). The Super XL-AO had both. There were 54cc manual only versions (XL12) sold almost to the end of the run (right alongside the 58cc SXL-AO saws). I'd guess they were sold at a lower price point (and or in different regions or venues, such as chain stores).

This series of saw was made (with minor changes) from 1963 until 1994. Yes that's over thirty years! In the archives there should be a few posts discussing how to decipher a Homelite serial number for the year of manufacture. The search engine in the forum doesn't go back that far however, so you'll have to dig in the archives.

Looking at your SXL-AO pics, I'd say your saw was manufactured towards the end of the series. The manual oiler plunger looks to be the black plastic one-piece later version (as opposed to the multi-piece brass unit with the black button). That change was made somewhere in the early '80s. Pull the air filter cover. Look at the carb. If it has "Zama" cast into the top cover, then your saw was made right at the end of the run. Otherwise, it wil have "Homelite" or "Walbro" and "SDC" stamped into it (both of those carbs are actualy the same Walbro SDC).

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Thanks guys you've helped out a bunch. Lots of interesting info on this old saw. This one runs like a champ, but cut half moons out of larger cuts. I looked at the bar and the bottom side looks pretty worn. I also noticed when you start the cut the chain shifts to one side, causing the crescent cuts. I am new to this but it just appeared the bar was worn. Still cuts smaller stuff better than my new one. lol

 

[GeorgiaVol]

I know you said the UT # was difficult to decipher but I thought I would try. This saw UT# 100453. If any more info can be found please let me know. Thanks again guys.

 

[rarefish383]

We used one version or another of the XL12 commercially as our #1 ground saw from the late 60's through the mid 80's when my Dad retired. We had 20" bars on all of them, they would pull more bar, but we had bigger saws to do that. When Dad passed away I sold all of his old saws except 2 big ones, and have kicked myself ever since. I have picked up 2 more XL12's in the past year or so and would never turn down one with compression found cheap at a sale.As eccentric mentioned, the color changes aren't quite in any logical order. I have one blue one that a friend gave me. It's in pretty pristine shape and has a red handle bar support. I asked how a saw in that good of condithion broke that heavy of a piece and didn't get damaged any more? He insisted that it was bought new with both colors on it. Just repeating what he told me, can't prove it. Anyway, great saw, enjoy it, Joe.

 

[Saw Dr.]

Chains can cut crooked for several reasons. Uneven bar rails can be squared up with a file or grinder. Loose bar grooves can be tightened with a squeezer, or careful attention with a shim in the groove, and a hammer. I would try to salvage that bar and get a new chain for it. You can always get a longer one also, and have a backup in case you stick the saw in a cut.

 

[MnSam]

Nice old homie, they sound cool too. Rub a little Mequiars Endurance Tire Gel on that top cover. It will take away all the fading and protect it.

 

[MnSam]

And I agree with Saw Dr. Put a new chain on it or have it sharpened correctly. That is probably the reason for the strange cutting (uneven cutter sharpness/angles).

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Ok I will give that a try. How do bars look when they are worn? Is the grove too shallow for the chain, or is the grove widened out so the chain is wobbly?

 

[HomeDelight Man]

Hello, You are correct. The guide bar track normally wears or bows open, not being able to hold the drive tooth of the chain straight. Normally, guide bars don't wear so much that the chain drive tooth bottoms out. Other that the track wearing out, the rails can get uneven from pushing a dull chain for too long. If you are cutting severe bananas, the rails are probably uneven. You could try and file them parallel again. Nice saw, good luck!

 

[Little Al]

We used one version or another of the XL12 commercially as our #1 ground saw from the late 60's through the mid 80's when my Dad retired. We had 20" bars on all of them, they would pull more bar, but we had bigger saws to do that. When Dad passed away I sold all of his old saws except 2 big ones, and have kicked myself ever since. I have picked up 2 more XL12's in the past year or so and would never turn down one with compression found cheap at a sale.As eccentric mentioned, the color changes aren't quite in any logical order. I have one blue one that a friend gave me. It's in pretty pristine shape and has a red handle bar support. I asked how a saw in that good of condithion broke that heavy of a piece and didn't get damaged any more? He insisted that it was bought new with both colors on it. Just repeating what he told me, can't prove it. Anyway, great saw, enjoy it, Joe.

I have a XL12 that I bought new in 1971, It was all red except the bar support which was blue,the shop had several Homelites with mixed colours at that time which i thought rather strange

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Well here it is all dolled up with her new bar and chain, and let me tell you guys, I LOVE THIS SAW!!! This is only the 4th saw I've used, but man it beats the others hands down. It is soooo much easier to start, and now it cuts like a hot knife through butter. Even that Osage Orange I've been cutting on didn't stand a chance. (they aren't kidding about those sparks). Thanks guys for all your help. I had the other bar looked at and it was definitely worn out. I'm LOVIN the new 20" now!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looks Good!
Just went all over my brothers - looked like it lost a war but still cut great. Keep the air filter clean and run good mix and it'll last a long time. I just used plain silicone grease on the air filter cover and it came out nice.