Just picked up my first saw...used MS 290

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danneal

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I'm new here, and new to saw ownership. I grew up running Stihls - cut my teeth on my grandfather's Stihl 028 Wood Boss that is easily as old as I am (and still running to this day). The biggest I've ever run at length was an 044 Magnum on a farm I worked on as a teenager. The fiance' and I bought our first house about two years ago and I decided it was time to pick up my first saw that I could call my own. I found a decent deal on Craigslist the other day - traded an inexpensive single shot rifle for an MS 290 with original chain and bar. Owner bought it after Hurricane Katrina to cut two pecan trees, and then put it under the shed. He hadn't touched it since, and it needs a little work. I think the carb just needs to be cleaned - started fine with a little gas in the carb, but that was about it. It came with a 16" bar, and the chain needs to be replaced. Overall I'm happy with the deal, but I want to get the most out of this saw. I am wanting to run a 20" bar. I've read a little bit about the muffler mods and carb tuning, but I am not sure it is something I can handle on my own. I feel pretty confident I could do the actual mod, but I don't do to well with carbs. I've never worked much on smaller engines. Something else that intrigued me was that 390 short block from Bailey's - how hard is that swap? This is pretty much going to be a firewood and cleanup saw - Hurricanes/tropical storms happen every couple of years to some extent.

Any advice or help anyone wants to give would be phenomenal and much appreciated. My local dealer is anything but friendly so I don't feel real comfortable asking for advice there (plus I would assume most dealers frown upon modding saws).
 
Welcome to AS :cool2:

Like what was said before MM and retune your carb

The Bailey's 390 is pretty easy to put in

Here is a MS 290 body with a 390 inside of it with a Stihl ES 24 3/4 b/c

DSC_7996.jpg
 
Rebuild carb and remove limilter caps on Lo and HI needles. You can stick a sheet rock screw in the end of them and pop them off. This makes tuning the carb much easier. Open the muffler up by removing the front deflector and drilling a large hole behind it, say 1/2". This will improve the performance greatly.
Bob
 
Get the saw running correctly, then worry about learning how to keep the chain sharp. Not sure how much money you have in the saw but to replace a known good short block with a Chinese one( even if it is more displacement) would likely put you near the cost of a new saw with a warranty. A sharp chain is the most important performance item on any saw.
 
Get the saw running correctly, then worry about learning how to keep the chain sharp. Not sure how much money you have in the saw but to replace a known good short block with a Chinese one( even if it is more displacement) would likely put you near the cost of a new saw with a warranty. A sharp chain is the most important performance item on any saw.

Exactly... good advice.

Everybody jumps in with "port the muffler", "put a different top end on it", etc...

Most cats just want a saw to run correctly. Especially their first saw. Get it runnin'... cut wood... learn to sharpen a chain... have fun...

Then worry about all the supercalifragalistic awesome fantabulous cool stuff.

Gary
 
Here's a third vote for getting the saw in good shape and getting your sharpening up to par, and then (and only then) worrying about other stuff.

A pimped-out saw that is finicky or a chain that is poorly sharpened, these are not good attributes in a storm clean-up saw. You want something that works correctly when you need it. A 290 is a good candidate for that role.

You can run a 20"/.325" bar if you want. I ran one on mine for years and it was fine, and my father-in-law continues to run that saw with the same bar/chain combo to this day. In hindsight, though, I would probably have preferred a 16" bar with 3/8" chain for that saw, or maybe 18". I think the balance would be better, and the saw would not be trying to pull more cutters than it really wants to pull.
 
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Exactly... good advice.

Everybody jumps in with "port the muffler", "put a different top end on it", etc...

Most cats just want a saw to run correctly. Especially their first saw. Get it runnin'... cut wood... learn to sharpen a chain... have fun...

Then worry about all the supercalifragalistic awesome fantabulous cool stuff.

Gary

Also, always listen to the guys here that use big words that us common folk have to google, especially in the "oil" threads......
 
290

This 290 is your first saw. Right now I wouldn't think of "modding" anything...Just get it tuned to spec...someone can do it for you...once. You'll see it's not really intimidating or difficult. Then you'll be doing it but probably won't have to for quite awhile. Put a new chain on it, get some decent sharpening equipment so you can do it on/off the saw...no need for a grinder yet. A 3/8" chain, the right size file (I use 13/64 on my 310 20" bar), and file guide will start you out fine...learn about taking down "rakers"...learn how to sharpen it. Keep good bar oil in it, use Stihl oil at 50:1 (you'll hear opinions on this), and just get use to using it. It's a good saw and you can mod it anytime down the road once you get use to it. For now I wouldn't do anything but get it back to spec and it'll serve you well. Yes, a 20" bar works well on these saws but you probably don't really need it yet...or until you start cutting stuff you think would be easier w/a longer bar. Just get it running correctly w/a good chain and use it. Sounds like you might have gotten a bargain. And, if you want, you can search on AS for mods and read everything you can find on them. Quite a bit of info around, some of it going back 2-3 years...You'll be fine.
 
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