Large White Oak split down center

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THanks Bandit Man!! great this is what I was thinking. Ok three instead of two and chains instead of straps. good call.

Sure thing, but I have to add a disclaimer here. What I said is what I do. I'm not recommending you climb past the crack.
Now that being said, again Good luck.
 
Rope it together , put on a few ratchet straps and chase them with ropes . Also think about roping it to another tree to try to slow the sway . As far as climbing above the split your taking your own ass Into your hands , I would be flopping that tree for sure

thanks bro! forgive my ignorance but I'm from Tennessee and we don't use the term "flopping" here. please elaborate.
 
thanks bro! forgive my ignorance but I'm from Tennessee and we don't use the term "flopping" here. please elaborate.

I wouldn't climb it , I would find a place to drop it whole ...... Flopping it LOL , I have climbed trees with splits before , I did a nasty wild cherry a while back , scary as hell , my biggest worry was something I didn't see like a complete break that was not visible to the eye and the damn thing falling apart with me in it .
 
If the only things that are going to be damaged are understory trees and a road, I would drop it. What kind of road is it? Have you already sold the job? If not, you can always walk away from it. Tell the client you're going to drop it due to safety concerns for the climber. If he doesn't like it, walk.

sorry Zale this tree cannot be dropped. not gonna happen. aside from the barber chair risk at the bottom, the canopy is above many other big trees and branches. it will hang for sure. oh and its a road on a 30% grade!!!
 
I am not trying to be a ####ing did I here but you are familiar with round turns right , start about a foot above the crack , and put a #### load of round turns where the crack is , use100 ft or rope if need be , I say start from the top to use your body weight to set the turns tight , space em 6" if need be
 
I am not trying to be a ####ing did I here but you are familiar with round turns right , start about a foot above the crack , and put a #### load of round turns where the crack is , use100 ft or rope if need be , I say start from the top to use your body weight to set the turns tight , space em 6" if need be

great. yeah that sounds maybe the strongest option yet. good advice. thank you.
 
This is how I would set it up , 1st pic run em all the way down
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and don't Chince on the rope or you may be "flopping" into a casket ! Jack .
 
first off, lets go with the split. that split could well be within the core the whole length of the trunk. just because you cant see it, doesn't mean its not there. I would smash the trees under it and splash the road. whats the problem with that? risk your life to save a couple trees, """" that. it seems as though theres some large trees close enough to rig the whole tree down. throw some lines up and set 4 or 5 good rigging lines. climb the closest large trees and set blocks in the shape of a triangle with the tree to fall being the tip. strap the trunk. cut your notch chest height and butt tie the trunk to the stump. bore the center from the side and make a low back cut leaving a couple inches between it and the bore. get away from the tree. pull it over slowly until the vertical holding wood snaps leaving the hinge. slowly lower it. if this isn't possible, drop the tree would be my only option to the customer.
 
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first off, lets go with the split. that split could well be within the core the whole length of the trunk. just because you cant see it, doesn't mean its not there. I would smash the trees under it and splash the road. whats the problem with that? risk your life to save a couple trees, """" that. it seems as though theres some large trees close enough to rig the whole tree down. throw some lines up and set 4 or 5 good rigging lines. climb the closest large trees and set blocks in the shape of a triangle with the tree to fall being the tip. strap the trunk. cut your notch chest height and butt tie the trunk to the stump. bore the center from the side and make a low back cut leaving a couple inches between it and the bore. get away from the tree. pull it over slowly until the vertical holding wood snaps leaving the hinge. slowly lower it. if this isn't possible, drop the tree would be my only option to the customer.

Do you see the tree in the foreground? this is one of the trees that is under it that you would smash. there are more and as I said this is the tallest tree. it's limbs are well above and through the canopies of smaller but still very large trees. there is nowhere to drop it. it will hang and make a bigger more difficult mess. this is not a 101 question. the road was put in at considerable expense. the road is a good 50' BELOW the base of the tree. since it took significant cost and energy to put the road on the 30% grade hill, the customer wants to not risk losing his road, which if this tree comes down on from so far, it would do. just to be clear.
 
Do you see the tree in the foreground? this is one of the trees that is under it that you would smash. there are more and as I said this is the tallest tree. it's limbs are well above and through the canopies of smaller but still very large trees. there is nowhere to drop it. it will hang and make a bigger more difficult mess. this is not a 101 question. the road was put in at considerable expense. the road is a good 50' BELOW the base of the tree. since it took significant cost and energy to put the road on the 30% grade hill, the customer wants to not risk losing his road, which if this tree comes down on from so far, it would do. just to be clear.

but thanks for the 400 level rigging suggestion! LOL
 
T-man, I can tell you are going up this tree no matter what. Hope the $'s good!
But Miko is right about the split running the whole trunk. Throw a binder on about 3' up also, just for insurance.
Keep in mind also that area is rocky, so with the grade, a white oak root ball will be very shallow. Throw on a GoPro and video this ok. Would like to see how it goes.
 
Do you see the tree in the foreground? this is one of the trees that is under it that you would smash. there are more and as I said this is the tallest tree. it's limbs are well above and through the canopies of smaller but still very large trees. there is nowhere to drop it. it will hang and make a bigger more difficult mess. this is not a 101 question. the road was put in at considerable expense. the road is a good 50' BELOW the base of the tree. since it took significant cost and energy to put the road on the 30% grade hill, the customer wants to not risk losing his road, which if this tree comes down on from so far, it would do. just to be clear.

Best new addition to the site in awhile. I cant imagine how I would solve this riddle. Any experienced arborist knows just how delicate roads are. The stress of possibly hitting a road or a few saplings in the woods would keep me up for days. Good luck with this one.
 
ed

What is the price on this job. As I mentioned before I think this a perfected job for a tracked lift. If there is money in the job for one I think this is your best option. If you are going to climb above the split, good luck to ya.
 
Jeff, if you are trying to help then that's great. Maybe read more and post less. If you just have a little #### you are trying to compensate for, then bug off. I am not a homeowner which is why I am posting on a Commercial Tree Care and Climbing forum. I am a climber and I am asking other climbers advice. You are not a climber as you don't understand a homeowner has neither the skills nor tools nor balls to even consider tackling the removal that I clearly described.

Just got home, and actually caught up on the posts. You wouldn't believe how many homeowners post in the wrong spot, and based on the questions you asked without giving enough info, it certainly seemed likely. I don't know how it is in Tennessee, but in Texas when we come to a new place we have the common courtesy to introduce ourselves. As far as whether Ken or I are climbers, well, we ain't the guys asking for advice now, are we. Look at your original post and be honest with yourself. Did you really give enough info for an educated answer? Getting back to the tree, if there is another tree somewhat inline with the tree in the foreground, you can set up a highline safety independent of the tree you're taking down that will give you an additional safety, although there are additional risks with that as well. Jeff
 
Thnks for the advice to those who contributed. I knew there'd be some climbers on this site. Anyhow, this ol boy is paying 2G's for me to remove and not hit his other trees nor his road. So I ain't gonna let it hit his road, and his trees will look good when I'm gone, just a stump to show for it. A lift will not work on this terrain. This is black diamond steep and loose. I doubt I'll be a hero, but I will report back and let you fellers know how it goes. Maybe I'll get some more pics. Until next time.
 
As a new climber I have nothing to offer other than good luck and hope I don't see you in the accident section of the next TCIA magazine.

2 grand is nowhere near enough to get me to climb above that split. Any way you could set a crane up on his road and have the crane lift you in and use that as your TIP so if things go bad you still have a secure tie in?
 
so what happens if you remove weight that's keeping the split in tact and preventing the tree from total failure. you obviously don't know the meaning of no. your probably broke and desperate. 2 grand in the tree business isn't much cash. your customer built a glass road apparently. pad the road. pile 4' of logs on each side. trim the damaged limbs from the fall. if the oak is 120' tall once it starts going, providing you don't plow right into another tree, its coming to ground. but your not here for advice on whats right, are you?

I like your potty mouth and arrogant attitude though. it'll do you well from your future wheel chair. TOOL!
 
Good luck. I'm not bustin' balls but in the future, you might want to figure out how to take the tree down before you give him the price. You've got to take a picture of this road for me. It must be very delicate if a tree can't land on it.
 
so what happens if you remove weight that's keeping the split in tact and preventing the tree from total failure. you obviously don't know the meaning of no. your probably broke and desperate. 2 grand in the tree business isn't much cash. your customer built a glass road apparently. pad the road. pile 4' of logs on each side. trim the damaged limbs from the fall. if the oak is 120' tall once it starts going, providing you don't plow right into another tree, its coming to ground. but your not here for advice on whats right, are you?

I like your potty mouth and arrogant attitude though. it'll do you well from your future wheel chair. TOOL!

LOL. This is going well.I love you guys. Anyhow, if the stem is codominant, which it looks like it might from the pic, could you rig off the other stem? Just a thought. Like I said before,good luck to ya.
 

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