Anyone else seen this? Just curious as to the pro's and con's. I think Wade is a lot smarter than he sounds sometimes
This knotch lock thing, while not a bad idea, is really kinda pointless since it relies on a trigger strap anyway, plus if the tree is going to chair because of too much hold wood it will chair anyway as soon as it clears the knotch.
I had to watch his vid a couple times to understand what he was doing, does seem a little more complicated. I'm just a firewood cutter but I have examined a few hundred stumps cut by local loggers and am pretty certain that I can say no one uses a Coos bay cut around here. ( probably too much fiber pull on high $$ timber?) They all bore cut and then trip a trigger. after seeing an 880 fly thru the air on another vid I will doing all mine with an upcut instead of a downcut from now on!Leaners? Try the Coos Bay cut. Boring or the SSD have their place but the Coos Bay gives you a little better chance of not 'chairing.
I prefer the V cut because it seems easier to match your cuts but either way will work.
Leaners? Try the Coos Bay cut. Boring or the SSD have their place but the Coos Bay gives you a little better chance of not 'chairing.
I prefer the V cut because it seems easier to match your cuts but either way will work.
Nothing against these cuts,BUT in the Midwest and in the hills of the South when you're cutting a veneer Walnut or White Oak, for example, there isn't enough room to leave this kind of holding wood if the tree isn't at least 30 inches or larger, let alone you can't leave any heart wood to tear or pull--so it isn't just the lean you're fighting, but also the value of the butt log you might lose.
Where these cuts where developed is a place where a hard wood can and will follow a steep hillside fighting for light and they are high dollars sticks as well.I had to watch his vid a couple times to understand what he was doing, does seem a little more complicated. I'm just a firewood cutter but I have examined a few hundred stumps cut by local loggers and am pretty certain that I can say no one uses a Coos bay cut around here. ( probably too much fiber pull on high $$ timber?) They all bore cut and then trip a trigger. after seeing an 880 fly thru the air on another vid I will doing all mine with an upcut instead of a downcut from now on!
I agree we have all spent too much time on an alder or a blow down stump to see our saw or worse someone killed.It always bugs me to see guys risk so much to save out board-inches. I'll always err on the side of safety, which means to cut it efficiently and get away. I want to spend as little time at the stump as possible.
I agree, but that butt log can be worth double or more what the rest of the tree is worth. It just needs to be cut up right and can be done safely without a lot of bs.It always bugs me to see guys risk so much to save out board-inches. I'll always err on the side of safety, which means to cut it efficiently and get away. I want to spend as little time at the stump as possible.
I don't remember the last time i bored a tree. ... Typically i use the "strip" or what looks like a "T" shape if you include the hinge. If you do it right (one quarter of the back then the other) you will have the middle sawn out and the tree will pull the back of the stump out of the ground as it goes. ... .
I agree, but that butt log can be worth double or more what the rest of the tree is worth. It just needs to be cut up right and can be done safely without a lot of bs.
Also I still hold the theory that a lot of chairs are caused by stalling the tree, usually by not having the face cleaned out good enough, but also by not cutting through the back fast enough, tree starts to go but then stops for whatever reason, puts a tremendous amount of stress on one tiny point, that just so happens to be where your saw is currently cutting. Kinda the whole point of having a big fast saw is to get through that danger point as fast as possible, as well as methods like the Coos, cut that back up quick like and GTFO.
Just an assumption on my part, based loosely on experience, seems that the face cut has as much or more to do with fiber pull than anything. Narrow little face and the stem will want to lift off the stump rather then fold and break the fibers. But the down side is that a wide open face will let the tree more or less free fall and smash hard into the dirt? That part I'm still kinda working on though...
Granted hold wood still has an effect on both speed and fiber pull, its finding that balance between the two that I may never find... every tree is different and they all have their own issues, can't just say here's the magic formula and go.
Also I still hold the theory that a lot of chairs are caused by stalling the tree, usually by not having the face cleaned out good enough, but also by not cutting through the back fast enough, tree starts to go but then stops for whatever reason, puts a tremendous amount of stress on one tiny point, that just so happens to be where your saw is currently cutting. Kinda the whole point of having a big fast saw is to get through that danger point as fast as possible, as well as methods like the Coos, cut that back up quick like and GTFO.
More or less. The entire saw is never in the compression zone at any one time. Each quarter can be sawn from the side or behind the tree. This way you can pull the saw out more quickly and kind of read what the tree is going to do. You don't have a full bar stuck in the tree for it to sit on.Bitzer, I am trying to visualize your cut and am guessing with the root pull that you are essentially cutting out the strip front to back and though technically not using a bore cut, you are doing the same thing. If not, what am I missing?
Ron
Yep.Exactly right.
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