List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252

[stumper63]

Apex, sounds like another good way, I don't have a torch setup though.

Bigstumps, not much sand here, more clay, some rock, so we'll see what the experiment yields. I did put in 4 pumps in each bearing to start, nothing purged, just in case factory didn't fully grease them.

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

Just for giggles go to E Bay or Google and type in that UPC208-24 Bearing part number and you can probably by them for about $20.00 a piece like I do.

By the way Stumper63 I finally got the rebuilt pump and motor for the big beast 252. Just waiting on a couple of valves and hoses and the Alien will finally be running.

 

[stumper63]

Plyscamp,

Yeah, I saw those, but for this test wanted to get exactly what the stumper up in Seattle used, still way better than Vermeer's pricing. Got a day's grinding in on them, so far no issues. Amazing how quiet things run with good bearings, you kind of forget once they start making a little noise.

Have you ever tried NOT greasing the bearings as I posted above? Results? How long do you usually get out of a set of bearings?

Glad to hear the 252Alien is about ready. PM or email some pics when u can.

Talked to Keith a few days ago, looks like he's making progress on the new MultiTip teeth, may be ready to beta-test in a few weeks. Bet he'll send you some.

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

I can't remember the last time we changed a bearing. We give them a pump or two about once a month. I had a bearing guy tell me a couple of years ago we were killing bearings by over greasing them, We have been using the cheap bearings for quite a while. I dont think we ever wore one out, we usually hit someting real hard and with the extra power we break the outer housing, At 20.00 a piece who cares I can afford to break one or two a year.

 

[demigh0d]

Source for 163s1009 rebuild kit

Who did you order the kit from? Quality Control Corp just quoted me $107.31

Thanks,
Duane

rebuild kit complete with everything below: 163s1009, cost me $69.95 plus shipping.
main seal assembly: 48000
shaft seal: 46255
anti-extrusion block: 38029
wear plate: 36163-1
insert gasket: 38028
insert bridging: 38027
o-ring: 163m6036 (2 needed)
key square: 21021

 

[DocUSA]

Better ground SC252

My SC252 was getting sluggish when starting. I measured the voltage at the starter and it bounced all over from 10 all the way down to 7 volts. I measured the resistance from the motor housing to the battery negative terminal and found it to be near 10 ohms. The resistance varied from 10 to 50 ohms depending on where the boom swing was. Way too high! When I thought about it, I realized there is no direct metal to metal path for the return (negative) path. Every path goes through multiple pins that are greased or rusty. A quick trip to the local salvage yard and I returned with a three feet piece of #6 stranded insulated copper wire (looks like old starter cable or welding cable) for $3.00. I polished an old piece of copper pipe the wire just fit into and cut 2 2" pieces (length is not critical). I next smashed one end of each piece in a vise until it was flat for about 1" and drilled a 1/4" hole in each flat section. Trim about 3/4" insulation from each end of the wire and solder the pipe pieces on. Remember to heat the pipe (not the wire) and flow the solder into the strands of the wire. I used a Benz-A-Matic propane torch and played the flame over the pipe to keep from getting the joint too hot. Leave a small piece of wire exposed from the pipe - don't butt the insulation against the pipe.

I found a bolt on the motor I could attach the wire to. The hole in the pipe was a little small but a minute with a rat-tail file fixed that. Clean - Clean and clean again the housing, use new washers or clean the old one, and attach the wire by replacing the bolt. Run the wire where it will not pinched when the motor swings. Attach the wire to the motor or base plate with a tie wrap to relieve the strain on the solder joint.

At the other end find an existing bolt or drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole. I found a bolt doing nothing near the opening where the hydraulic and electrical lines entered the big metal case. Clean - Clean and clean again the area under the bolt. Remove all paint and grease, you must have bright shiny metal for a good electrical connection. Attach your wire, tie wrap it down, and check it is clear when the motor swings side to side. The wire can flex but there can not be any movement at the soldered ends or it will break. Spray a little battery terminal protector on each end to help fight corrosion.

Result: WOW, starts now and as a bonus the charger for the battery (built into the motor) now keeps the battery up.

I am a retired electronics engineer and just for fun ran some numbers:
resistance of #6 wire is 0.000465 ohms/foot (so I have 0.001395 ohms of wire)
resistance of wire to metal - 0 ohms (I made sure the metal was shiny and tightened the bolts firmly)
voltage drop in the wire: V=DIR where D=distance in feet I= current (I measured almost 40A at start) R=resistance of wire/foot
so V=(3)(40)(0.000465)=0.0558 volts, not very much!
resistance from motor housing to battery negative terminal: too low for my digital volt/ohmmeter to measure - a very good thing

End result: for about $4.00 and a little over an hour (not counting the fun time at the scrap yard), my SC252 starts much easier and faster and charges much better. Money and time well spent.

 

[stumper63]

Hey Doc, thanks for the post, now educate me as I'm not too experienced in electrical stuff. I've had a couple 252's now, haven't ever had a charging/voltage problem yet.

Why do you need a separate wire to go from boom to frame? Doesn't the negative battery cable that runs to the engine mount bolt provide the ground path back to the battery, since starter is bolted directly to engine block?
I can understand if you started bolting on accessories and tried to ground to frame where there could be a problem, but since both the electric clutch has a ground wire going to engine block and the starter is a direct-connect, how does there come to be a charging problem?

Just curious,

Stumper63

 

[topdrop]

operator presence

Disable it? :greenchainsaw:

I too have been having troubles with the operator presence any ideas on how to disable anyone... it dose not appear to be the same simple soulution as removing the fuse for the sweep...hope this thread is still alive there has been some awsome info in here for 252 owners. cheers

 

[Arboristo]

Now, to start with, you cannot wear rubber or (too dry) leather gloves when operating the handles, but I guess you figured that our yourself.


I've had troubles with the operators presence only once. I searched for hours, changed the computer with one from another sc252. But it turned out the solenoid was broken. So change it and likely you'll be fine again.

 

[derby66]

vermeer 222 clutch torque setting

Just put a new bearing in my clutch assembly,was hoping someone has the torque setting for the shaft bolt that holds cluth onto shaft? Thanks derby

 

[stumper63]

Probably depends on if yours has the Kohler 25hp or Honda engine. If the Kohler the service manual says a Grade 5 5/8-18 fine thread bolt torque is 145 ft. lbs. The Honda bolt is much smaller, not sure what that would be.

Stumper63

 

[NCgrinder]

Starting to round up the parts for a 35 Briggs conversion on my 252. At the same time I will do the 1 1/2 " countershaft conversion, needle-bearing swingarm,new hyd. pump,new clutch, re-gear the drive sprocket,etc...

I also want to do the 3 belt conversion on the c/shaft to cutter shaft at the same time.. Anyone have the part numbers for a 4" 3 groove (c/shaft) & a 7" 3 groove (cutter shaft) pulley? Will also need P/N for 1 1/2" hub for the 4" pulley.. I want to have all the parts that I can ready, so I won't be down ,stuck trying to track down everything..The companies locally play pingpong with you when you carry in pulleys and try to get them to change sizes ,widths,grooves etc. They don't want to deal with it ,so they send you somewhere else...and the local Vermeer dealer is outta sight on prices

The more part numbers I have ,the less downtime I'll have.
Thanks,
Stan

 

[Wherewolf]

Swing Bushings and drilling the Pins

I'm curious about those that have replaced the swing bushings with bearings and drilled your pins. Did anyone cut a shallow grease groove around the pin in the center of where the bearing rides? Or is that overkill?
I'm getting ready to drill my pins and wanted to find out if I should bother. I suppose we could pop the bolts and spin the pin 1/2 way every 6 months or so....

Thanks for the great idea,

Wherewolf

 

[Plyscamp]

I drilled mine Vertically then Horizontilly at the center of the bearing, this allows the grease to come out on both sides of the shaft. I dont think you would gain much with a groove.

 

[ApexTreeService]

Check out the new paint job.

$650 to paint it. My guy went above and beyond. I have my company number, email address, and "stump removal" red 3M scotchcal reflective lettering on white back ground (company colors). I have to paint the trailer new cause it looks so horrible, he said $150. I'm on that.View attachment 239943

 

[timberrrrrr]

Bigger Engine

Hey folks-

Been following this thread . . . Installed smaller pulley on Hydraulic motor, replaced cutter wheel drive sheaves and belts to use 5/8 belts "B" belts for less slippage.

This machine doesn't quite have enough power for me, but gets into really tight access situations nicely!

I am going to install a larger engine. I noticed Plyscamp installed the 35hp Briggs, I am considering the 40hp Kohler.

Anyone have experience enough to answer if this machine is too light for 40 hp and will maybe climb the stumps while grinding or other issues?

I will presume it will smoke the current clutch and so will need to be upgraded to a larger clutch the 352 uses Ogura's 527 323 gt5c-ve01 and this would be an option.

I would also upgrade the belts from the engine to 5/8" as well

By the way, the 40hp is not much more weight or size difference.

Just looking for feedback from those with larger engines installed as to whether they would shy away from 40hp or not

 

[Arboristo]

timberrrrrr, why would you choose a 40HP Kohler?
Quite a few guys on the forum here report happy results with the Vanguard 35HP...


I'm also in de process of converting my late 2008 sc252 with the Vanguard. My only concern is actually the extra weight of the vanguard. It weights about 29 lbs (13kg) more than the Kohler 27hp does. I cannot put on duals as I have to move through very narrow gates most of the time.

I'm a little worried the sc252 will tip easily with the heavier engine. How are the experiences on this subject so far?

 

[timberrrrrr]

timberrrrrr, why would you choose a 40HP Kohler?
Quite a few guys on the forum here report happy results with the Vanguard 35HP...


I'm also in de process of converting my late 2008 sc252 with the Vanguard. My only concern is actually the extra weight of the vanguard. It weights about 29 lbs (13kg) more than the Kohler 27hp does. I cannot put on duals as I have to move through very narrow gates most of the time.

I'm a little worried the sc252 will tip easily with the heavier engine. How are the experiences on this subject so far?

I agree with you, the Briggs 35hp has been a successful upgrade.

I'm just thinking that it is only 8hp bigger, for an extra $500, I can go 13hp bigger with the 40hp.

Just don't know if that is too much for the size of this machine.

The weight difference between the 27 hp (94lb) the 40hp (132 lb) and the Briggs 35 hp (125 lb) I can see being an issue. I feel it would be a good idea to have the double tires on because the machine can be tippy without a taller heavier engine.

The tires come off quickly, I think it is wise to use them

 

[Plyscamp]

I would not run a stock 252 without the extra wheels. If your having to go through a lot of narrow areas , get a battery operated impact gun and remove and put back on as necessary. Or live with it on it's side occaisionally.

I agree with you, the Briggs 35hp has been a successful upgrade.

I'm just thinking that it is only 8hp bigger, for an extra $500, I can go 13hp bigger with the 40hp.

Just don't know if that is too much for the size of this machine.

The weight difference between the 27 hp (94lb) the 40hp (132 lb) and the Briggs 35 hp (125 lb) I can see being an issue. I feel it would be a good idea to have the double tires on because the machine can be tippy without a taller heavier engine.

The tires come off quickly, I think it is wise to use them

 

[Arboristo]

So far I only tipped mine once in 3 years (the first time I used it).

I'm considering getting the duals, especially when I'm getting the heavier Vanguard.

Is unlocking possible with duals?