Log Splitter Beam

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wampler234

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
66
Reaction score
3
Location
Kansas
im just getting into burning and splitting wood and have been wanting to build my own splitter for along time now and have tons of scrap metal, my cylinder, motor, etc... i found some beams but question if it would be a good idea or not.

This is what it is----its a three flanges submerage arc welded togather, 6 wide and 8 inches tall, the 6 inch flanges are 1/2 and the center web is that is 8in is 5/16 thick

what do you guys think go find another true i beam
 
I would see about another beam. I would go at least 1/2" all the way around. I have a tendency to overbuild everything I build. With that being said I have never "broke" anything I have built.


Jeff
 
im just getting into burning and splitting wood and have been wanting to build my own splitter for along time now and have tons of scrap metal, my cylinder, motor, etc... i found some beams but question if it would be a good idea or not.

This is what it is----its a three flanges submerage arc welded togather, 6 wide and 8 inches tall, the 6 inch flanges are 1/2 and the center web is that is 8in is 5/16 thick

what do you guys think go find another true i beam

I'd look for something a little wider, and a true H beam, like an 8 x 8. When I built my first splitter I used a 6 x 8 and I could see the beam flex when splitting.
Plus with a wider beam you have more surface for the wood to sit on when you are splitting. Get one wide enough you don't need wings or a table! :laugh:
 
The beam could be fine depending on the cylinder you have. It will handle a 4" bore 24" stroke cylinder (20 ton). It will handle larger bore cylinders if the cylinder is kept close to the beam and the wedge and push plate heights don't get excessive.
Consider that Timberwolf 20 ton splitters use only a 5x5 beam and most other manufacturers use a 6x6 beam sometimes even on their 30 ton models.
The main thing to remember is that the further attachments are from the center-line of the beam the greater tendency to bend the beam.
 
keep your cylinder close to the beam when mounting it. the higher you go, the more stress on the wedge end.
 
im just getting into burning and splitting wood and have been wanting to build my own splitter for along time now and have tons of scrap metal, my cylinder, motor, etc... i found some beams but question if it would be a good idea or not.

This is what it is----its a three flanges submerage arc welded togather, 6 wide and 8 inches tall, the 6 inch flanges are 1/2 and the center web is that is 8in is 5/16 thick

what do you guys think go find another true i beam

Do your self a favor go to TSC

http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoo...itters/huskee-reg-22-ton-log-splitter-1032822

and just buy one of these
 
Go to TSC and you'll miss out on an adventure. It may not be a good adventure, but how will you know if you don't try it. I've built 3 splitters, and all had very different beams. I do like the Heavy H beam the best. The splitter I use, has an I beam 12" tall X 5" wide, 3/8" web,with a 1/2" plate added to the top. It flexes none. You can use the beam you have, but it may flex a little, depending on all the other components. This splitter was built in 1986 I believe, I did rebuilt the pusher 1 time.



PyO98l.jpg

b2CsVl.jpg
 
dang jerry how narrow is that one??? i have a 4 3/4 inch i beam but i think that would be to narrow
 
Go to TSC and you'll miss out on an adventure. It may not be a good adventure, but how will you know if you don't try it. I've built 3 splitters, and all had very different beams. I do like the Heavy H beam the best. The splitter I use, has an I beam 12" tall X 5" wide, 3/8" web,with a 1/2" plate added to the top. It flexes none. You can use the beam you have, but it may flex a little, depending on all the other components. This splitter was built in 1986 I believe, I did rebuilt the pusher 1 time.



PyO98l.jpg

b2CsVl.jpg

I love the Bi-plane looking wing on top. To keep the rain off?
Also, when can I come take it for a test flight? :D

:)
 
I went with a pair of 6"x4"x1/4" wall sq tubes welded together with a 3/8" top plate weld to them. Wedge on end welded to the sq tubes and the top plate. Top plate welded all around as well as plug welded to the tubes, no twist or flexing that I have seen yet. 5" cylinder set low, push block is 8" high, wedge is 12"
 
I love the Bi-plane looking wing on top. To keep the rain off?
Also, when can I come take it for a test flight? :D

:)

The top is just to keep some of the weather off of the engine, tanks, cyl. etc. It is the roof of an old Allis Chalmers Roto Bailer. worked out pretty good, it's like a tilt cab, the rear lifts up, hinged in front. That, and those mag wheels really make this thing fly.Come on over and try it any time:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
im just getting into burning and splitting wood and have been wanting to build my own splitter for along time now and have tons of scrap metal, my cylinder, motor, etc... i found some beams but question if it would be a good idea or not.

This is what it is----its a three flanges submerage arc welded togather, 6 wide and 8 inches tall, the 6 inch flanges are 1/2 and the center web is that is 8in is 5/16 thick

what do you guys think go find another true i beam


I myself would go with the biggest thickest beam you can afford. I have a 8" by 8" half inch thick beam with a six cylinder that flexed when I built the splitter 20 years ago so I boxed it in with half flat and it hasn't flexed since. I should have used a bigger beam but it has worked for 20 years.
 
Have read some fun stuff on here about steel splitter beams. Well, fun to me maybe.
You see, as a veteran structural steel designer and certified welder, I may know a little more than average about steel beams.
First off let's use the correct terms for different beams.
The red one shown here on the splitter with the plates attached is known as an 'S' shape and in profile looks like the letter 'I"(why it's sometimes called an I beam). These are most often only used for overhead crane beams or heavy lintel beams. They are very heavy and have great loading strength. The more common "W" shape beam is called w for "wide flange" (but there are also "HP" and "M" shapes that look similar). The "W" shapes are by far the most common beams and can be extruded rolled shapes from the mill or fabricated by welding three plates together and then called a "WWF" - welded wide flange.
Second of all, the strength of a steel beam is mostly found in it's depth, not width. (Of course in this case wide beams are better to keep the log on it).
Also a beam can be strengthened by adding plates to each side of it. These should be stitch welded or continuously welded along each upper and lower toe on both sides.
The reason a beam flexes can be a result of too much force applied too far away from centre. Like stated by others here, try to keep the piston and flat push plate (which ever your configuration) low to the face of the beam and if it's a smaller size you can simply add sides to the beam by way of welded plates of equal or greater thickness as the centre web.
There is no such beam called an "H" beam(this is more likely called a "W" shape beam)....sorry guys, but it's true.
You can find out all of this information and more by looking in a "Handbook of Steel Construction". It's our steel design bible.
I see some great designs for splitters on here and some guys are having fun building them I'm sure.
Good luck building the splitter and hope I didn't offend anyone with the tech talk.
 
Have read some fun stuff on here about steel splitter beams. Well, fun to me maybe.
You see, as a veteran structural steel designer and certified welder, I may know a little more than average about steel beams......
Good luck building the splitter and hope I didn't offend anyone with the tech talk.

Thanks for the great info!

7
 

Latest posts

Back
Top