looking for a new stihl

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Im looking for some peoples opinions about what stihl to get. I went down to the pawn shop the other day and noticed that had a few saws there for a decent price. They had a ms250 for $189 but the chain on the darn thing was filed PAST the small line on the cutters. Then they had a nice 029 there that was $198 but the chain and bar looked to be brand new since the bar lettering hadent even been worn off and the chain looks like it was factory sharpened still. my question is Which saw would be better to get. The 029 had an 18inch bar on it but was a pretty hefty saw.
Im looking to use this saw as a logging saw since im probably going to have to bring my own saw at the job im trying to get. so which saw would better suit my needs the 250 or the 029? which has more power and cutting ability? and which is overall a better saw?


Buy the MS280 that way you can tell Red what a dumb azz he is and if you want to take it further buy it with the CQS that will wedge the Troll's panties.
 
Zackster,
3-5 person crew sounds like a lot for a residential clearing job,are you sure you want to work for this outfit?
Sometimes you got to do what you got to do,specially to get experience.Safety is not only watching what your doing,but sometimes more importantly having to watch what the other guys are doing.
- Work smarter,not harder-
just my .02 duckets
ak4195
 
Buy the MS280 that way you can tell Red what a dumb azz he is and if you want to take it further buy it with the CQS that will wedge the Troll's panties.

he said he wants a saw to go to work and cut wood, not spend half the day pulling a starter cord or bogging down.




:greenchainsaw:
 
i do like the sugestions but im open to almost any pro saw i can get for my money. by the time i start this job which will be who knows when i might have enough money to get a better saw, but im not opposed to Jreds, Huskys, and the like since i have run all of them and really like them all. Although im only in the market of running a 16 inch bar since everything up here can be taken down with the 16 incher. the pine is big up here but the bigest ive seen is only about 36" diameter and thats not too common for where i live.
I also dont think that the clearing job is too residential since we clear new house lots most are going to be a bit off the beaten path since all of the house lots in the towns seem to be already cleared out or never were wooded to begin with. Although safety on this job atleast as far as PPE is questionable i know i will be wearing my chaps/pants and helmet, boots and gloves but my friend seems to laugh at that fact. He thinks its funny that he can get away with wearing shorts and sneakers in the summertime because it keeps him cool, i think he a downright moron for even attempting such a feat once let alone for a whole summer.
 
OK, if you're able to get by with a 16" bar, go find yourself a lightly used or rebuilt 036. Make enough money with that to upgrade to an 044 or 046, and keep the 036 as a backup.

And wear your PPE. Hack idiots run around in shorts and sneakers...and end up in hospitals for it.
 
OK, if you're able to get by with a 16" bar, go find yourself a lightly used or rebuilt 036. Make enough money with that to upgrade to an 044 or 046, and keep the 036 as a backup.

And wear your PPE. Hack idiots run around in shorts and sneakers...and end up in hospitals for it.

Good solid advice ConpUser.

Zackman. It's good to here you're only looking to run a saw with a 16" bar, that will keep the cost of the saw down. Considering you only need a small saw for now, you should be able to find a good used Husky 353, Dolmar 510/5100 or a ms260.
 
im hopefully going to be able to get to look around soon at some of the saw shops in my area that might have some used saws. i actually have a stihl and husky dealer less than a mile from my house i just never have any time to go up there and look around, although he runs a pretty TINY shop and his prices are sometimes a little more than the bigger shops around.

BTW i know this is a bit off topic but im interested in knowing what kinds of notches that you use to cut trees. I have been taught to use the open faced notch with a bore cut, leave a strap, insert wedge, then cut strap and run. but im just worried since this cutting method takes a while to execute that i will be too slow and not have enough productivity. should i be worried and try to use another felling technique or just stick with what i have been taught. I talked with my friend who is trying to get me a job and by the way it sounds he normally just uses a conventional notch and then makes a back cut untill the tree falls....although hes not the safest of people.
 
BTW i know this is a bit off topic but im interested in knowing what kinds of notches that you use to cut trees. I have been taught to use the open faced notch with a bore cut, leave a strap, insert wedge, then cut strap and run. but im just worried since this cutting method takes a while to execute that i will be too slow and not have enough productivity. should i be worried and try to use another felling technique or just stick with what i have been taught. I talked with my friend who is trying to get me a job and by the way it sounds he normally just uses a conventional notch and then makes a back cut untill the tree falls....although hes not the safest of people.

"cut strap and run"??

The strap (ie hinge) controls the fall. Felling technique depends on the size of the tree, condition of the tree, lean, market value of the timber, surrounding area, wind, etc.

You can study felling technique in books or watch some videos in the video forum but you really need to work alongside someone to gain experience.

When it comes to the felling cuts you only have one chance to get it right and if you don't you risk safety and property damage.
 
no no no you misunderstood me, what i call a strap is a small section of wood that is left after the bore cut in the back so that i can move around to the back of the tree and insert my wedges and not worry about the tree coming over backwards or falling. i will draw a diagram and post it. all of these techniches though were taught to me by my forestry class instructors who actually took us 1by1 and showed us the proper way to do it. and both teachers are CLP certified.
the strap is the area i highlighted in Bright green, and the borecut is red.

View attachment 62891
 
Zach have you considered looking for an excavation company that does there own clearing?Like I said earlier,3-5 people is alot for a clearing job.Especially with a minimal amount of training and a lack of focus on safety.It only takes one bozo to ruin your day.With an excavation outfit,youll get saw time(hopefully some instruction)and learn several other trades as well.Find an outfit with a very large chipper that eats 18-20" trees,or perhaps a tub grinder.
One experienced man and a sharp chain should be able to clear any size lot in a couple of hours,then you can stand around and watch the excavator work for the rest of the day,perhaps he'll put you on the dozer as well.
After working up a sweat running around the woods,its nice to have a fun sitdown job for a while and really tear some sh:censored: t up.Good luck
ak
 
yeah i would agree with that....bulldozers are a hell of alotta fun to drive. but i dont know anywhere around here where i could get a job, i live in a small town, i dont at the time have a car and im still in high school which sort of puts a damper on things.
 

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