Hello all, I've been reading this site for some time, thanks to all the contributors.
I own a Husky 51, 61 and now a Stihl 180(my limber). My main thinning saw is the 51 and on it's last legs. I use to thin in Alaska and found the 51 to be just the right size.
My question is what to replace it with. I'm at 2200 ft elevation and don't have the need for a "smart" carb that adjusts for that. When thining, I'm talking about 6" and under trees and brush. I'm on and off the throttle all day when in the brush, mostly 3" and under material. I do get into 1-2" whips in clusters and mow 8-10 at a time when they are sitting right.
But again, on and off the throttle continuously.....
So, my main concern is what type of carbed saw should I be running when constantly on and off the throttle. I've read plenty on the pros and cons of Mtronic from Stihl and AT from Husky. Not sure if I'm sold on either. Considering a MS 251 because it fits in the middle of my line-up, plus I'd be able to tune it which has never been a problem.
If I were sawing logs all day for firewood I'd probably go Mtronic or AT, but since my 61 rips like the day it was born I'll not be upgrading to anything larger soon.
So, it's between the 550XP, MS 261, MS 241 or the MS 251....I think. Please feel free to suggest other options.
I've always been a Husky guy till I bought a Stihl BR600 blower and their super extendo pole saw. I know both make good products.
Thanks for looking and replies in advance,.
welcome to the site
You obviously were not cutting west coast hemlock stands in Alaska with a 51? You get payed by the acre when you cut???
If your a professional thinner, you don't pick a thinning saw
You run the best that's proven.
The definition of thinning by the peice is:
Going as fast as you can
as hard as you can
for as long as you can.
That sums it up!
Its no doubt the hardest test by far you can put a saw through.
Something's you say makes me feel you and I have different definitions like having the dealers steer you away from buying a homeowner's?
Some things don't add up here.
You don't need to run a tight chain..that's just bad for your saw, bar and hands. Sure you are going to get chain throws cutting bush but a lot can be avoided with technique like keeping the revs up when you bar is in range of bush and not slaping at the bush like is likely to happen at times when you start to get tired. Obviously coming in low and straight. None of all that matters if your gear is worn out or you have the wrong saw for the job. Lots of saws you could potentially use in the interior that have the engine power to weight for the DBH and density to cut the stand but they don't have the design to keep a chain on or on for long or take the punishment from that constant on and off the trigger, which can exceed 1000 times a gas tank (I has actually counted, contrary to popular belief on here...I can actually count that high, I just can't spell it).
You have to look at the structure of the guides and what is vulnerable when the chain comes off? how good is the chain protector and is it going to start punching a hole in the tank the first week. I remember in '92 I had a good friend wrenching for Shindiawa and could give me a good deal on a saw. The specs were really good on these saws so I tried on up in the interior. Nice little saw but mounting system was placed wrong and chain throws cut the aluminum and the head of the rubber mount, and it poped through and separated.
That was the end of that saw in under a week. No you can't use homeowner's. the guide are inadequate generally not structured properly.
I couldn't emphasize enough on keeping the guides fresh with extra's on hand as well changing sprockets after 2-3 chains. I flip my bar daily and use a rail puller to keep the gauge tight now and then. A raker gauge is a good investment for you as well, use a good one (one that sits on an angle & not sit across the top)
Chain in my experience can not always be detected by eye or the way it cuts as to when its time to pull it from aggressive activities. Its generally a revolution thing. Oregon chains generally I have half the meat left but the drivers wear and you will notice the difference from morning to afternoon with throws just that quick. Its a game of thous.
I don't have to second guess other things. I know when its something I did wrong buy certainly do an inspection. I find the stihl chain will go longer. If its derails to much, especially with a new chain and the bar is good then change your guides. Sometimes it can be one bad chain throw like in the case of nylon guides like the 365/371/372. Sometimes the guide will fall out when you have the side cover off. Some don't know any better and crank the chain up in an attempt to keep it going. I wish I has the theory behind me back in the day that I do now.
Keep your parts fresh and you save more and make more in the end.
I had an older 61 in the '90s that I picked up. They were good work horses in the day, kind of the 365 of these days.
It made a huge difference when I put a mod muffler on it with an 8 tooth.
I didn't really use it though. I had ported 266 with 16" bars as well one with a 272 top so it would have been a little under powered for north Vancouver Island west side Hemlock stands. As a matter of fact there was no other choice. The only other saw before the 272 was the O44 but they
couldn't stand up for long I bought a 272 and used it one day and went back to the shop after work. He charged me a $100 but he took it back. That thing was rough on the hand but he said "Its just how the saws are....??? I liked my ported 262 with 20" bar for the interior.
Then in '96 I got a 371 and still with the 372. The builds are a little different and the bars are 20" longer.
I know guys were using the 562 for slashing seismic line. One I tried for a sec about 5 yrs ago, the mount was shot but maybe it was him or they have improved it. Other guys seemed to like them. I tried a 550 for the first time last week with a tree company. I thought it was a 562. It was a really strong saw. I was surprised when I noticed it was the 550 only. Barky little saw for sure.
"I've been dazed and confused
for so long its not true
Needed a chainsaw
Never bargained for you
Lots of people heard
and a few of them know
That soul of a thinning saw
was created below.
