Definitely, rec climbing is a good way to see how others climb, you always learn something new.
We could probably get some climbers to post photos of their SRT configurations. Many ways to skin a cat.
Here are some basic concepts:
Rope options
1. Static kernmantle, 11mm is a good baseline diameter
2. Arborist semi-static, 11mm is a good baseline diameter
Tie-in point (TIP) options
You must do a very good job of assessing the TIP strength, there's no compromise allowed here. Always bounce test before climbing.
1. Trunk anchor, rope goes over branch or multiple branches, anchored to same tree or another tree at the ground, 2:1 load on TIP.
2. Cinched branch anchor, backed running bowline or similar is cinched to the limb, requires that crotch be isolated, 1:1 load on TIP.
Ascent
Many different systems, Texas Rig, Frog, Rope Walker and all the variations created by climbers. The basic safety concept is always two points of life support attachment to the rope (and at or above the waist of the climber). Climbers use a variety of mechanical ascenders to attach to the rope, sometimes one, two or even three. If only one mechanical ascender is used there should be a friction hitch backup somewhere in the system. It can be done with two friction hitches (slower).
Switchover
Don't go up unless you know how to go down. Practice switchovers low and slow.
Descent
Many different devices to use to descend: rappel racks, Grigri, F8, ATC. Eddy, I'D, etc. F8 twists the rope, Grigri overheats on a long fast descent. Everything heats up on descent so you have to pay attention to how well (or not) your device dissipates heat. In general it's good to have "hands off" stop on descent. This means adding a friction hitch below some devices like ATC's and F8s. Racks behave so well once they're tuned for an individual system that many climbers don't back them up with friction hitch. No one's figured out a safe way to descend SRT on a hitch only, it doesn't work, not controllable.
-moss
