making chain - all my saws the same??

[nstueve]

Not too far, how many stock echo 670 bars would be needed to use up 100 feet of chain assuming you didn't hit rocks wire etc more than 25% of the loops. I know needed is relative and there are other variables I just seem to recall 5 loops per bar somewhere until control becomes less.

I believe the capilary hole as you call it is trade marked lubriwell by Oregon and is one of the differences between many commonly used sizes chain vs Carlton.

Yes the hole I'm talking about is called "Lubriwell" by Oregon however I have rarley seen the 72/73/75 LGX series with the lubriwell feature on it. I more commonly see it on 3/8 Stihl branded chains but do not know what they call. it. Either way stock/OEM Oregon bars may last through 5 chains but my Totals can get me through many more... Steel quality is the main factor and I don't personally use Oregon bars now b/c I feel they have inferior steel when compared with Total/GB/Stihl/Windsor bars. Bars also need to be properly filed, greased, and maintained at least once a year but most people don't bother with it. The OP will have to decide how much chain he uses and wheather it's worth it for him. I have more than 12x 100' rolls on the shelf here to feed friends needs (mostly oregon/carlton chain bought at auctions). Which brings me to another point... If you run into chainsaw bars at auctions or pawn shops that will fit your saw (or can be lightly modified to fit) chances are you may have a different DL count and may need to lengthen or shorten several chains you already have. Done this a ton since I got all this chain.

And if we are going to hit all the points here; you might need to determine how many years you actully plan to be cutting firewood. I don't plan to be doing it much past 65yr/old at most. That's 34 years from now for me...

 

[unclemoustache]

This thread is starting to make me chuckle! The oil spreading abilities of the various chains is way over my head!

Anyway, I'm thinking that, as much as I love to cut and hope to do it the rest of my life, I don't see myself using enough chain to justify the expense of getting the tools and roll of chain. I'll just get the loops for now.

 

[nstueve]

good spirited debate is always good...

 

[Gypo Logger]

The biggest advantage to a riveter and spinner other than making your own loops is you can shorten, lengthen and repair any pitch chain.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Thanks for the help. This does get rather confusing.

According to the Oregon website, http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
the Mac and Echo take the 7/32 file, and all the others take the 5/32. They refer to both as 3/8" chain with .050 gauge.

I think I'll wait a bit on chain making. I'm planning on getting a new saw in a few months, so I'll make sure it takes the same as the Mac and Echo, so perhaps later I can make my own loops.

Speaking of files a friend asked me to file his 325 chain. So I pulled out a 7/32. First thing he said was the file was too big. So I said, yes and no. Because the cutters were 50% used up the file fit in there nice and did a great job on the gullet and under the top plate with no exaggerated hook. It cut pretty fast for 325 on his Stihl homeowner saw.

 

[rd35]

I just keep reading these posts about chain......and I get closer and closer to ordering a roll of chain and a breaker/spinner. One of these days I'm gonna pull the trigger and buy them! I have just recently started a little hobby business of sharpening chains and I think it's only a matter of time before folks start asking about buying new chain from me! Will probably start out with a roll of .325/.063 and then a roll of .375/.050. Just can't decide whether to go full chisel or semi.

 

[nstueve]

I just keep reading these posts about chain......and I get closer and closer to ordering a roll of chain and a breaker/spinner. One of these days I'm gonna pull the trigger and buy them! I have just recently started a little hobby business of sharpening chains and I think it's only a matter of time before folks start asking about buying new chain from me! Will probably start out with a roll of .325/.063 and then a roll of .375/.050. Just can't decide whether to go full chisel or semi.

Semi-chisel is the safest bet. 90% of everyone will pick slower cuts over a chain that dulls quicker.

 

[Gypo Logger]

I just keep reading these posts about chain......and I get closer and closer to ordering a roll of chain and a breaker/spinner. One of these days I'm gonna pull the trigger and buy them! I have just recently started a little hobby business of sharpening chains and I think it's only a matter of time before folks start asking about buying new chain from me! Will probably start out with a roll of .325/.063 and then a roll of .375/.050. Just can't decide whether to go full chisel or semi.

Maybe consider getting a dealership with Oregon.

 

[nstueve]

Maybe consider getting a dealership with Oregon.

Not worth it for "hobby"... New business tax ID, 1/3 earings going back to taxes, chain direct from oregon will be more expensive or about the same as if you would buy from western bulk buyers.

 

[Philbert]

I was about to order some new chain loops and I thought about making my own loops. I searched here and watched a couple vids, and it looks pretty darn easy and they it say saves money in the long run.

It is not hard to learn - actually fun to learn a new skill, and a good one to have. Here are a couple of related threads:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/baileys-chain-breaker-and-spinner.144859/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/spinning-chain-fess-up.170216/

It may save you money if you use a lot of chain, and it is mostly the same size/type. If you shop carefully, and buy pre-sized loops on sale, you may save even more!

Where it can really save you some money is in repairing damaged chains, and re-sizing chain loops to fit other saws. Since you have a lot of saws, I imagine, this could open up a lot of opportunities for you!

I've been hand-filing with 2 different sizes, and looking at my saws and trying to determine what chain I need, everything says all my saws have the same size chain.

I looked at putting the same size type chain on a bunch of saws, in order to buy chain in bulk. Was going to cost a lot in replacement bars and sprockets to accommodate the 'uni-chain'. A side from that, I am glad that we did not, as I believe that most saws have a 'sweet spot' combination: power head; bar length; sprocket; chain pitch that work as a system. You might miss that if you put the same chain on all of your saws.

Next question - one of the vids showed a guy using an anvil, punch, and ball-peen to break and install the master links. . . . what do you use and recommend? Baileys has three kits from $99 to $330.

I bought one of the Bailey's kits after seeing it used in person, at their shop. I would buy either one of their $100 +/- sets, and encourage you to buy a few extra punches (see comments in threads above) and a bunch of tie straps. Then take some old or scrap chain and play around with it. As with everything, there are some good and bad videos on YouTube.

You will wonder how you got along without it!

Philbert

 

[unclemoustache]

I just keep reading these posts about chain......and I get closer and closer to ordering a roll of chain and a breaker/spinner. One of these days I'm gonna pull the trigger and buy them! I have just recently started a little hobby business of sharpening chains and I think it's only a matter of time before folks start asking about buying new chain from me! Will probably start out with a roll of .325/.063 and then a roll of .375/.050. Just can't decide whether to go full chisel or semi.

Semi-chisel is the safest bet. 90% of everyone will pick slower cuts over a chain that dulls quicker.

I have semi on everything now, but was thinking of going full-chisel with my bigger saws. I don't mind sharpening, and I've now got a stump-vise in my Baileys cart.

 

[rd35]

Hey thanks for the input nusteve, Gypo, and uncle. I, personally, love to cut fast with full chisel, but I also love sharpening chains! I have found that by putting out some extra effort to protect my chains from rocks, dirt, and dirty wood, I am able to cut several ricks of wood on one full chisel chain before it gets dull. And that is cutting oak, ash, and spignut hickory. Shag bark hickory dulls chains pretty quick no matter how clean it is. I always go to the woods with at least two sharp chains in the box along with a freshly sharpened one on the saw. If I dull them all, well then it's time to go back to the shop anyway! But, when selling chain to the public, I was not sure what the market consensus would be. I plan to offer chain sharpening services, bar tune-ups, and, now, new chain as well. Just gotta get my act together and make this happen. Hopefully, there will be a retail merchants license in works shortly!!!