Makita Dolmar Oil Leak Fix

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sepia

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
1,815
Reaction score
2,780
Well, this hasn't been touched on in awhile so I thought I would do a thread on addressing the dreaded Dolmar puddle problem. The saw being repaired is my DCS4300i, but this repair applies to Dolmar109,110,111,115,ps540 and Makita DCS430,4300,520,5200,540 and possibly others I have forgotten about or not aware of.

Here is the saw cleaned up, and a good view of the 1/2" hole in the crankcase that the oil line passes through. Tank has been drained and clutch, oil pump and the 2 oil lines have been removed at this point. When disassembling these parts, take careful note of the order you remove them. There are a few small washers that need to be oriented in the proper direction, and installed in the proper order.
IMG_20170311_193957.jpg

This are completely cleaned and degreased before going to the next step.

Here is the new oil supply line that will be insatalled. Ensure it is clean also. Also, if your new line does not come with the wire strainer already attached, you will need to carefully remove the strainer from your original line and attach it to your new line.
IMG_20170311_194327.jpg

Incidentally, I checked the grommet diameter of the new line and it was 0.540". The original line that was leaking and loose fitting was 0.510", or 30 thousands smaller. Not much difference, but enough to cause a leak. I assume they must shrink with age and heat cycles.

Here is the goop I used as a sealing compound. Permatex Ultra Black - Maximum Oil Resistance.
IMG_20170311_194515.jpg

Case opening and oil line lubed up and ready for assembly.
IMG_20170311_194922.jpg
IMG_20170311_194940.jpg

And here is the line inserted into the case.
IMG_20170311_195241.jpg

Next up is the output line that feed the bar. It is a really poor design imho, but it's what we have to work with. The line is not attached to the pump! Rather, it is compressed between the pump output hole, and the crankcase when the pump is tightened to the body of the saw. At the other end of the line, it merely rests in a loose fitting slot that feed the bar oiler slot. Al I can say is good luck getting that arrangement sealed up tight.

Here is the output line, and the depression in the case where it sits.
IMG_20170311_195432.jpg
IMG_20170311_195440.jpg

I put some goop at the outlet of the line to try to seal it up a bit better at the bar slot (careful not to block the exit hole in the line). I also added a very small amount to the face of the line where it is compressed by the pump body when the pump is tightened down.

Line installed.
IMG_20170311_195849.jpg

Next, install the pump. Nipple presses into the line below the crank with little effort.
IMG_20170311_200019.jpg

Continued below...
 
killer. Thanks for this post with the pics. Can't wait to do this repair on my 111i. Time to order a few parts!
 
Good job, good info. I have done many repairs on the Sachs Dolmar, Dolmar and now Makita saws and the oil leak is a common problem on those saws. On many of the leakers I could stop them by judiciously cleaning all the parts like you did to get all oil off all parts including the existing oil line, then used the same black Permatex to seal it all back up again. This was done on saws that the owner did not want to wait for a new line to be ordered and shipped, just fixed and put back into service. Thing is, not one of those saws ever came back to get a new line or to even have an oil leak again.
 
in another thread someone used cereal box cardboard behind to pump trying to push it up to the outlet line? i skipped it also... TY again, finally did it!
 
Well, this hasn't been touched on in awhile so I thought I would do a thread on addressing the dreaded Dolmar puddle problem. The saw being repaired is my DCS4300i, but this repair applies to Dolmar109,110,111,115,ps540 and Makita DCS430,4300,520,5200,540 and possibly others I have forgotten about or not aware of.

Here is the saw cleaned up, and a good view of the 1/2" hole in the crankcase that the oil line passes through. Tank has been drained and clutch, oil pump and the 2 oil lines have been removed at this point. When disassembling these parts, take careful note of the order you remove them. There are a few small washers that need to be oriented in the proper direction, and installed in the proper order.
View attachment 564278

This are completely cleaned and degreased before going to the next step.

Here is the new oil supply line that will be insatalled. Ensure it is clean also. Also, if your new line does not come with the wire strainer already attached, you will need to carefully remove the strainer from your original line and attach it to your new line.
View attachment 564281

Incidentally, I checked the grommet diameter of the new line and it was 0.540". The original line that was leaking and loose fitting was 0.510", or 30 thousands smaller. Not much difference, but enough to cause a leak. I assume they must shrink with age and heat cycles.

Here is the goop I used as a sealing compound. Permatex Ultra Black - Maximum Oil Resistance.
View attachment 564283

Case opening and oil line lubed up and ready for assembly.
View attachment 564285
View attachment 564287

And here is the line inserted into the case.
View attachment 564288

Next up is the output line that feed the bar. It is a really poor design imho, but it's what we have to work with. The line is not attached to the pump! Rather, it is compressed between the pump output hole, and the crankcase when the pump is tightened to the body of the saw. At the other end of the line, it merely rests in a loose fitting slot that feed the bar oiler slot. Al I can say is good luck getting that arrangement sealed up tight.

Here is the output line, and the depression in the case where it sits.
View attachment 564292
View attachment 564293

I put some goop at the outlet of the line to try to seal it up a bit better at the bar slot (careful not to block the exit hole in the line). I also added a very small amount to the face of the line where it is compressed by the pump body when the pump is tightened down.

Line installed.
View attachment 564296

Next, install the pump. Nipple presses into the line below the crank with little effort.
View attachment 564297

Continued below...
Better than YouTube. Well done. But you got one thing wrong CJ, Makitas aren’t leaking oil, their like my old shovel head, their just marking their territory. All my Makitas mark their territory.
 
Fabulous presentation! My Makita 520i suffered from the same problem. I was able to fix it with a blast of Stop Leak in the same input line area first and then a 1/8" thick layer of Permatex over that. I let it dry two days before adding bar oil and then ran it. No leaks and problem solved (I hope). Output line seemed OK.

These are great saws. Mine never seems to fail and this leak was its only quirk. And, my thanks to Dahmer and Joe Kool for the bump.
 
behind the oil line to push it up more, not the pump i would not tho scared of over compression, maybe if it leaked there.... TY again, 2nd attempt i hope will be the charm!
 
I'm picturing all your Makitas with little saddle bags full of kitty litter :laughing:
someone told me run em out, they all leak, i think i got er good this time tho and will wait a few days to move it out of the house...the cold maybe was my problem? who knows i was going to ultra black the holecavity goin in the tank LOL...
 
I'm trying to fix a secondhand bought Dolmar 115 that was neglected by the previous owner. It was leaking more oil at rest than what was spent sawing. I noticed your thread and ordered the hoses and a new seal between the crankshaft and pump.
There is at least one difference between your saw and mine. The metal chain deflectors in mine seem to be riveted. So I had to drill it out leaving me a larger hole than expected. Another problem to solve.
I have also replaced both hoses but I noticed that between the pump and the output tube, there was no barbed connector. Is the seal just working by the pressure of the pump on the hose ?

As I couldn't wait, I 3d printed a connector in PETG to connect the output of the pump and the short hose. STL available for those who need it.

After having all mounted, still no oil. I cleaned the pump inside out before assembling it again but neglected to fill the tubes and pump manually. Just added a tad of oil on the intake to avoid a dry run of the pump.
Can I consider that the pump is auto priming or do I need to fill the intake and the pump body first ?
 
im about to get into my dolmar and i also have a riveted chain deflector. is drilling it out the only way or is there a better way to get it off? and when im done how do i get it back on? or do i just leave it loose and pinch it between bar and body?

also, if i adjusted the oil all the way down would it shut the oil off completely or would it still let some oil thru? basically use it like a shut off valve and then open it up when i use the saw and shut it off again for storage.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top