mathematic formula for choosing a chainsaw

[The Count]

when somebody tries to explain an concept, but doesn`t cover all the fields, sometimes it is likely to fail seing the bigger picture.
ever since I got that crappy chainsaw in my hands, I thought about what saw to buy that suits everything this big world has to throw at me.
for me it will be an ONE SAW PLAN

however, I was not able to decide so I was thinking to make a formula based on every possible characteristics of a saw and my needs.

for example:

best saw for felling..........xxx cc
best saw for bucking........xxx cc
best saw for limbing..........xxx cc
etc

then my needs:
felling x %
bucking x %
limbing x %
etc

in the end, I will be able to tell what cc suits me most of the time
I must conceive an correction quatient......
some jobs that are not that frequently will suffer a bit;

ok. what do you say ?
will you help ?

the point is that for past few months, I have streched my mind and when I have thought I have it, another Q arised: would it be ok for that other job?

I am thinking to find out what class (power) will suit better rather than what make.

another example is that I buy an 365 with 20" standard, and for smaller jobs I put an 14" would that saw fit the bill?


I don`t know if I make any sense now so I`ll stop.

 

[JayB]

when somebody tries to explain an concept, but doesn`t cover all the fields, sometimes it is likely to fail seing the bigger picture.
best saw for felling..........xxx cc
best saw for bucking........xxx cc
best saw for limbing..........xxx cc

in the end, I will be able to tell what cc suits me most of the time
ok. what do you say ?

A big part of the "field" you refer to is what size trees? Hardwood? Softwood? What's your woodcutting purpose?

I'm a Husky fan, so a smaller do it all saw would be a 372. If you need larger, a 385/390. Limbing would be a 346, unless you're poor like me, then a 350. If you're under 36-40" felling the 50 cc saws will work. At that point, it's time vs. money.

 

[DangerTree]

You know I think you are taking this too seriously. You are putting way to much thought into it. There is only one possible solution to your dilemma. These are the factors that decide what saw to get.
-What is the average size wood you will be cutting?
-Are you felling or bucking or both?
-How many hours/ days will you be using the saw?
-Is the saw making you money?
-How well do you sharpen?
-How fit are you?
-How big is your budget?

Ultimately if you make money cutting wood then limiting your self to one saw is not reasonable or smart. If; however, you are predominately cutting wood not exceeding 24" then I would select a saw that allows you to trim and buck without bending over ( arms straight and body not bent over ) power head and bar should be long enough to touch but not so long as to drag on the ground. That creates a good ergonomic posture. Select a powerhead that has ample power to weight ratio a Husky 357Xp is a fine example- not too big and not too small. Combined with a 20" bar makes a very versatile saw. Allowing you to cut wood up to twice the bar length if necessary. There is no perfect saw. Horsepower changes with elevation and air cleaner condition. Cutting speed changes with sharpen, temperature and wood type. And ultimately the skill of the sawyer plays the largest part. After all it's not the guitar that makes the music.

 

[dingeryote]

Dude,

I gotta tell ya, you have got the bug as bad as anyone ever has.

Mathematical formula.....wow.


A limber/utility saw like the 346 or 260, and a heavy utility/felling saw like the 372/MS440/460/7900.
Done.

The one saw plan guys are always fun to watch, as they quickly break down and add a 70-100cc saw for the want of power, and then just as quickly add a smaller limb saw to keep from having to snip saplings with a 20lb saw....then they add others to keep the "New saw High" going LOL!!!

It's all fun.

Just leave a variable in your equasion for the "Just cuz'" saw that seems to follow everyone home sooner or later.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[DangerTree]

Yah that's my point the tree in my logo there was taken down w/ a 357 My penis doesn't need enlargement. You can accomplish lot's with very little.

 

[WVshooter]

If you're not trying to make money with your saw(s) then there's nothing shameful about a one saw plan. Truth be told, though, I can count on one hand the people I know that own only 1 saw. Personally, for some unknown reason, I have a soft spot for small saws. I digress.

For one saw, I still say a 60cc whatever. The main brands' offerings in 60cc saws are quite competent and can comfortably be used to fell, limb or buck. The key there is if you're willing to take more time by using one saw than doing a quicker job with saws meant for a specific part of the job. If you want to see the weight savings of a 60cc over a 70cc+ saw, I'd stay away from the 365, IIRC, it's the same as a 372, but with a smaller bore. Good saw, but no weight savings. Either way, I wouldn't likely worry with a 14" bar. A 20" bar is very handy, and a 60cc saw will balance better with an 18"-20" bar.

Have you been to any of you're friendly local Romanian dealers to handle any of the saws? I'd say that would be more informative than coming up with a mathmatical equation. And to that point, I'd hate to think you'd accidently move a decimal and end up with a 6cc saw.

 

[DangerTree]

Yew bet small is good. The smallest saw you can sharpen and still do the work is way easier on the body. And yes these days the division in quality is not that big. Stihl - Husky not that different.

 

[jimdad07]

If I had to choose one saw, I agree with the above. I would stay in the 60cc range. My 64cc Dolmar has handled every job it has had put to it and hasn't let me down or created more work. It is not too heavy and runs like a tank. I have knocked a few trees down with it, bucked 30" hardwood, noodled and even milled with it. But like was also said, you will ultimately end up with more saws that are more task specific, that is why my milling saw is now a 75cc saw. If money is the issue, you would be amazed at what you can find and fix for close to nothing.

 

[HittinSteel]

No saw will be perfect, so choose a nice all around saw to start with. Then as time goes by, buy any and all saws that are good deals. Try them out, keep them if you like them, sell them if not. Before long, you'll have at least half a dozen saws to choose from when it's time to cut wood.

 

[The Count]

yeah... I probably won`t be making any money with it. mostly I`ll be bucking firewood and fell some not too large trees, few limbs here and there....
I guess that the big amount of work would be on bucking...
I was actually considering 365. here is the same price as 346 XP, wich I like more but for bucking I think will be ... you know...
372xp is too much more and not sure it is worth from my need point of view.
I am fit and I could handle heavy. I won`t work that much with it and again weight would be ok, I guess...
359 also great, I have to look at stihl also. Farm boss is really cheap....

 

[fearofpavement]

If you are working in the woods, I think everyone that does it regularly would never be without a second saw. It becomes a safety issue. If you have a fell gone bad and your saw is hopelessly pinched you head for the vehicle to get "the other" saw. A one saw plan is fine if you mean a primary saw to use for almost everything but I never go to a felling situation with just one saw even though i fully intend to not use the "backup" saw.

This second saw can be a real junker as long as you keep it sharp and have confidence in your ability to start it when you need it. A cheapo Homelite, Poulan, or whatever can be had pretty much any day of the week for $50 or less and if it saves your butt just once it is worth having.

And there isn't anyone on this site I would wager that has gone through a can of gas that hasn't gotten a saw pinched so badly that they had to make additional cuts with additional saws to free it. If we were all as skilled as we make out it would never happen, but...

At the very least, a spare bar and chain would allow you to disassemble the saw and leave the pinched bar, freeing the power head to install the back up bar/chain and then go back to work.

I consider that a much lesser solution than just having a back up saw.

 

[TRI955]

Yah that's my point the tree in my logo there was taken down w/ a 357 My penis doesn't need enlargement. You can accomplish lot's with very little.

Yew bet small is good. The smallest saw you can sharpen and still do the work is way easier on the body. And yes these days the division in quality is not that big. Stihl - Husky not that different.

Smart man, some here should listen up....my self included.

 

[MacLaren]

If I had to have just one saw to do it all it would be a 2171/372 or ....a 2172/372xt

 

[JustinM]

A big part of the "field" you refer to is what size trees? Hardwood? Softwood? What's your woodcutting purpose?

This.

You know I think you are taking this too seriously. You are putting way to much thought into it.

And this.

 

[DangerTree]

If you are working in the woods, I think everyone that does it regularly would never be without a second saw. It becomes a safety issue. If you have a fell gone bad and your saw is hopelessly pinched you head for the vehicle to get "the other" saw. A one saw plan is fine if you mean a primary saw to use for almost everything but I never go to a felling situation with just one saw even though i fully intend to not use the "backup" saw.

This second saw can be a real junker as long as you keep it sharp and have confidence in your ability to start it when you need it. A cheapo Homelite, Poulan, or whatever can be had pretty much any day of the week for $50 or less and if it saves your butt just once it is worth having.

And there isn't anyone on this site I would wager that has gone through a can of gas that hasn't gotten a saw pinched so badly that they had to make additional cuts with additional saws to free it. If we were all as skilled as we make out it would never happen, but...

At the very least, a spare bar and chain would allow you to disassemble the saw and leave the pinched bar, freeing the power head to install the back up bar/chain and then go back to work.

I consider that a much lesser solution than just having a back up saw.

Dude you don't need a second saw for a pinched bar. And no Feller packs 2 saws into the bush. You already have tons of sh.. to carry. all you need is a second bar and chain it doesn't even have to be a big one.

 

[The Count]

what if the second bar gets pinched?
bet you that then you are sorry for not having a second chainsaw with an extra bar and chain; and two hand saws....

 

[DangerTree]

What if the second saw gets pinched, bet you will fell like a total idiot then eh! I figure if you get two saws stuck you got no bidness cuttin' with em'.

 

[jeepyfz450]

You can do a lot of work with a 60cc saw. people argue about how many saws you need and or how big of saws you need. I have a varied selection of saws because I CAN......simple as that. If i was to have only one it would be in the 70cc range with a 24'' bar. I dont mind the added weight of a bigger saw but like the power and speed. My father will take a 50cc saw all day long and cut bigger wood no matter how long it takes to get threw it.

 

[The Count]

What if the second saw gets pinched, bet you will fell like a total idiot then eh! I figure if you get two saws stuck you got no bidness cuttin' with em'.

you shouldn`t translate what I have said. It was best left implied.

 

[fearofpavement]

Dude you don't need a second saw for a pinched bar. And no Feller packs 2 saws into the bush. You already have tons of sh.. to carry. all you need is a second bar and chain it doesn't even have to be a big one.

.......................................................................
If you re-read my post you will find no reference to taking the spare saw into the bush with you. I leave it into my vehicle which in my situation is always nearby. So do you only have one saw available to you when you're working?