May I please lean upon and learn from, you experienced pros?

[GASoline71]

Frickin' suh-weet...

Gary

 

[tramp bushler]

Randy . Wow . Cool . Those block faces look like they work real good but would take alot of time . A great face for day waging .

 

[Gologit]

The block face doesn't take a lot longer to do once you get used to doing it. It's not as fast as a Humboldt but it's worth the little bit of extra time. If you're trying to save out valuable timber it can help you keep your job.

If you're cutting big brittle wood like Redwood or Cedar a lot of guys will snipe the bottom of the face, that helps let it off the stump a little softer and it gets the money log part of the tree on the ground first. Very little breakage that way.

 

[KiwiBro]

I lifted this from an earlier post.
They are basic examples

Thank you very much for this. What's going on with the blocking idea please? Less impediment to the butt of the log while angling over as it falls so less chance of premature ejectulation ? Also, does it allow the holding wood to be pulled forward and hang on longer before breaking, giving more chance of the hinge influencing the direction?

Is it daft to be thinking of blocking + siswheel combos for swinging leaners?

 

[KiwiBro]

In the case of falling a tree leaning 30 degrees off the intended lay, with the bore cut, how you release the strap can help. Once all you have left is the strap, instead of just cutting the strap from the back, try inserting the tip on the compression side and cutting toward the tension side, that way the last of the strap will pop but help pull the stem toward the intended lay, aiding the hingewood, hleping it pull around. A little more hinge wood on the tension side can help too, unless its to the point of causing a minor fracture at the hinge, which in some cases can propogate all the way through the log.

A little while back I was trying to swing a heavy leaning poplar 90 degrees, i though I had it fine and dandy and was escaping my 45 and the barberchair from it twisting/breaking/busting up the hinge, it caught my shoulder as it busted and fell 45 degrees from the intended lay, that was a bit unnerving and a good reminder that there are limits.

I have been a very boring cutter lately. After months of heavy to poplar jobs with lots of humbolts and backcuts, I've been forced to open up my faces a bit and bore lots. Just the nature of the timber, lots of heavy leaning oak.

Thanks for this. I think the next time I go experimenting I'll leave a big strap and release it from the compression side like you say, taking small bites and :
a. look up as much as possible and see if she ( I dunno why but I tend to think of trees like boats and call 'em 'she') is cooperating.
b. try pick a tree where the strap won't be sitting above any flared out section of trunk that's likely to get a little funky and flail around when the strap finally pops.

What's quite encouraging is that it doesn't seem to take much strap to hold 'em so perhaps I could at least get 'em starting to creep their weight over a hinge that's set offset from their natural lay before that strap pops. Just a bit tricky in high winds - there was just too much wind for my inexperienced self to notice any significant influence coming from the strap. the tops were going one way, straight down wind most of the time.

 

[KiwiBro]

Do I earn a barber chair patch or somefink?

Finally, had to use the basic uploader as the advanced one is broken for me now.

 

[StihlKiwi]

I hope those 'kikes aren't gunna end up as firewood KiwiBro :jester:
Whereabouts are you based?

 

[Samlock]

Finally, had to use the basic uploader as the advanced one is broken for me now.

Oooops. You've must been in a hurry there...

I haven't seen the whole deal and certainly have no idea about the tree species, but perhaps a deeper face cut would have spared you a good dash. A face 1/4 - 1/3 of the diameter is usually ok.

 

[RandyMac]

Yep, a deeper under cut would have saved you the dash and some wood as well.

 

[tramp bushler]

If you are chairing them like that u r in too much wind . And like Saam said . You didn't have quite enough face on that one .
When u put in the face . U can use the tip and just hog out ( bore) the venter of the face out . Just leave a post of holding wood on both sides . Unless u r using a swing cut .

 

[tramp bushler]

Mis spells . SAM # center.

 

[RandyMac]

Mis spells . SAM # center.

don't sweat the typos

 

[tramp bushler]

:msp_thumbup:

 

[KiwiBro]

Thanks guys.
Boring the face and having a deeper face - are they essentially arriving at the same destination, that being less hinge wood?
I mean, if I didn't deepen the face cut on that tree and just had less holding wood in the hinge (cut it thinner on the backcut), would that have been acceptable?

 

[KiwiBro]

I hope those 'kikes aren't gunna end up as firewood KiwiBro :jester:
Whereabouts are you based?

They may, sadly. There was just a 1/2 dozen or so of them so not permitted. Finding a mill that will dare to touch non-permitted native timber is not easy. It's not worth the risk for them.
If I won lotto, I'd be buying a mill. Have almost got enough standing saw logs lined up to pay one off next Summer, but at the mo' my experience levels would ruin too many trees and that's just not fair on them. So they get a reprieve until next Summer. I am hoping to find a portable miller who'd take me under their wing and teach me on some of their jobs if I give them a hand for free.

Based North of Auckland until I run out of trees and get more experience/training, then I'll chase trees anywhere....if still alive!

 

[RandyMac]

Maybe the butt swell threw you off, that was like, way shallow. On a tree that size, boring at the center of the back cut, through to the face would work and insure that the cut would match. Sometimes boring through the face will be under where the backcut should be.

 

[KiwiBro]

Maybe the butt swell threw you off, that was like, way shallow. On a tree that size, boring at the center of the back cut, through to the face would work and insure that the cut would match. Sometimes boring through the face will be under where the backcut should be.

thanks.

 

[tramp bushler]

Thanks guys.
Boring the face and having a deeper face - are they essentially arriving at the same destination, that being less hinge wood?
I mean, if I didn't deepen the face cut on that tree and just had less holding wood in the hinge (cut it thinner on the backcut), would that have been acceptable?[/QUOTE

]

They can . But arn't the same . This wind thing is gettin me cranky ..
by going a bit deeper in the face you gain steering and control with the tree .
Since the heart is usually the toughest part of the tree if you already have it cut its not hampering the tree from falling into the face . It also helps keep from pulling the guts out of the tree

 

[hammerlogging]

It just looks like too thick of a hinge to me.

 

[RandyMac]

It just looks like too thick of a hinge to me.

Hesitation wound?