McCulloch Chain Saws

[Warped5]

Hey fellers .. notice how the front part of the block is black and the rear part is unpainted?

Have any of you seen this?

The yellow (is that correct?) oil tank cover doesn't line up perfectly either .. ?

Where are Ron and the other 80cc experts at when I need 'em?

 

[joeymt33]

Look at this picture. All those macs and only one black case. It's the DE80. I bet you've got a Franken saw.

 

[joeymt33]

It's looks like there are two but one of them is the 8200 and its grey.

 

[Warped5]

Look at this picture. All those macs and only one black case. It's the DE80. I bet you've got a Franken saw.

.. you may be right up to a point.

I checked IPLs and the PM800 has a different part number than a 10-10 for that oil tank cover.

So far as is known, everything else is pointing at PM800.

 

[Warped5]

Like I mentioned .... doing a LOT of thinking while going through this saw. Maybe I 'over-think' it at times.

So I'm staring at this photo last night, wondering what doesn't look 'right' .... and in the middle of the night it hits me ... the little AV 'igloo' that goes in the front ...

Time to rob Peter to pay Paul again ....

 

[fechtichmac]

sp125

Decided to replace the leaking fueltank because corrosion inside as well.
The saw now is 97% black,dont know if this is correct?
Of course she runs great ! (fixed H-Jet Tillotson)

Thanks for looking!

E.

 

[IEL]

Decided to replace the leaking fueltank because corrosion inside as well.
The saw now is 97% black,dont know if this is correct?
Of course she runs great ! (fixed H-Jet Tillotson)

Thanks for looking!

E.

Looks like a stealth mcculloch. Just need to paint the lower handle part black.

I like the look of it!

 

[minosi]

Hey fellers .. notice how the front part of the block is black and the rear part is unpainted?

Have any of you seen this?

I have an SP80 with that same look, just means the cylinder/tank was replaced at some point.

Project looks good BTW:msp_thumbup:

-Andy

 

[minosi]

Decided to replace the leaking fueltank because corrosion inside as well.
The saw now is 97% black,dont know if this is correct?
Of course she runs great ! (fixed H-Jet Tillotson)

Thanks for looking!

E.

Looks bad A$$ E

 

[Warped5]

PM800 .. Day 5





Next step is to rebuild/install the Zama carb.

Ran into a problem with the clutch cover sent to me by a generous AS member. The pivot stud's broken off in the cover. I have an extractor set, but that hardened steel will be a PITA to drill. Will continue on with a PM*** or 10-10 cover from the parts stash.

 

[heimannm]

Try drilling it from the "inside", that way if the drill happens to get stuck you may luck out and break the stud loose and screw it out. A bit of heat around the broken stud may help as well, the magnesium will grow a lot faster than the steel.

They are pretty hard, good luck with it.

Mark

 

[clintonior]

Thought I'd share a pic i took this weekend of the CP125 the welch plug is in thanks Leeha for your help its a runner now. also a mac 10-10 i was given in very nice shape. View attachment 301777View attachment 301778

 

[Eccentric]

Ted is that yellow original paint or a repaint?

 

[IEL]

Sorry I have so many questions, I am still learning the tricks to working on macs.

I have been tearing down my 250, and I have hit a road block. It looks like I need to pull the flywheel, and possibly split the case to pull the jug? Part of the shroud over the top of the jug seems to be one of the case halfs? Just want to make sure Im not missing something, before I split the case.....

 

[cpr]

There is no case to split. Pull the flywheel, then use a puller again to remove the one-piece interior shroud/hood/flywheel-side crank bearing carrier. Remove the clutch. Remove the outer fuel tank cover. Remove the inner fuel tank half. Take off rod cap, lose needles, push piston up, slide crank out flywheel side, pull piston and rod out the bottom, and you'll have the bare block. Cylinder doesn't seperate unless there was a major league oops.

 

[IEL]

There is no case to split. Pull the flywheel, then use a puller again to remove the one-piece interior shroud/hood/flywheel-side crank bearing carrier. Remove the clutch. Remove the outer fuel tank cover. Remove the inner fuel tank half. Take off rod cap, lose needles, push piston up, slide crank out flywheel side, pull piston and rod out the bottom, and you'll have the bare block. Cylinder doesn't seperate unless there was a major league oops.

Thanks, sounds just like the super 55. I thought it was just the cart style engines built like that.. lol
I guess the pioneers have spoiled me on ease of teardown. I am used to a 5 minute job to get the cylinder off....

 

[cpr]

You'll find that you could stuff the 250 block, crank, rod, and piston in the S55 and vice versa if you wanted. Macs are a little tricky in the assembly, but they are very, very interchangeable.

 

[Warped5]

PM800 .. Day 5 .. RUNNER!

Try drilling it from the "inside", that way if the drill happens to get stuck you may luck out and break the stud loose and screw it out. A bit of heat around the broken stud may help as well, the magnesium will grow a lot faster than the steel.

They are pretty hard, good luck with it.

Mark

Ya know, a similar thought has occurred to me. Just need to locate a friend with the proper gear.

Ted is that yellow original paint or a repaint?

Looks to be original ... but it has this funky 'dirty' haze to it. I've seen the same thing on quite a few PM610 saws. Were these assembled in Mexico, too?



Ran into a bit of a problem (why isn't there ever a gun handy when you need one?) with the Zama carb. Seems the kit that was spec'd for the C2 carb won't fit; it's about 1/2 size! I can't explain it and neither can the parts guy. A call to Joey (who's always ready to talk while he's driving! ) suggested I refer to the xref chart he sent to us some time back. Chart suggested the alternate use of a Walbro SDC-38 .... just so happens I had an SDC-37 here; same carb, shorter screws. Put a kit in it and off we went ...

Took quite a few pulls and some carb tinkering to get it going, but go it did!

Don't know if I'll ever develop a liking for the exhaust tone; like a muffler-less Buick blowing through a large oil drum. Has some nice snappy throttle response, though!

Two outstanding issues:
1) Need to get the carb dialed in a bit better. After it started and ran a couple minutes, had to get stuff put away before yet another thundershower hit.
2) Need to get the correct clutch cover squared away after that broken stud's removed.

Then I'll post the finished photos with the B&C installed!

Note to everyone: Give Joey a rep shot for helping me out on this! My first piston replacement and his help was terrific!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Note to everyone: Give Joey a rep shot for helping me out on this! My first piston replacement and his help was terrific!

Some "Warped" reppage sent.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Some "Warped" reppage sent.

I'm surprised you havent picked up that other 80cc with broken crank for $50. Hint hint. :msp_wink: