McCulloch Chain Saws

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Pm850

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OK, a question.

Except for being oiley and a little dirty the 850 muffler is like new.

However! it is empty and the reed-valve is bent out so it is always wide open.

Should I locate a screen and straighten the reed or is this some trick that will double the horsepower and RPM.:confused:

ODW

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OldDeadWood said:
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OK, a question.

Except for being oiley and a little dirty the 850 muffler is like new.

However! it is empty and the reed-valve is bent out so it is always wide open.

Should I locate a screen and straighten the reed or is this some trick that will double the horsepower and RPM.:confused:

ODW

View attachment 309614
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I don't know any HP tricks but these links might help restore her. Ron

93014 - McCulloch Chain Saw Part / 93014 - BAFFLE-S/ARRESTER - MAC-93014 - McCulloch Chain Saw 85585 - McCulloch Chain Saw Part / 85585 - VALVE-REED -C/U M85585-01 - MAC-85585 - McCulloch Chain Saw
 
heimannm said:
There were many of the 1-41 and 1-42 saws sold without the lower brace. You can add one if you like since there were perhaps 1,000 other models that used the same parts.

The saw only has a manual oiler, to access the piston if needed you will have to remove the oil tank and fuel tank from the front of the saw. Best was to start is clean the oil tank out as best you can, add some light weight oil (SAE10W or similar), and start pumping. If you are fortunate, it will start working.

If not, the next step would be to remove the external check valve, see Carl's 250 photos a few posts back for a good photo of the external check valve. Remove that cover, carefully remove the spring and check ball, spray a little WD40 down the passage, and hope for the best.

Mark
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A marketing ploy Mark I have one here without its rear lower handle called a Thrithy Mac
 
Well put the 310 under a butload of stress after porting can tell a big difference. Will post pics of the stump tomorrow.
 
Here's my CP70 after a rebuild. I put a .030 over piston, bearings and seals. The bar is a 28" nos I had.
I haven't run it yet, hopefully tomorrow I'll have time.

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joeymt33 said:
That's a good looking saw. Was it already bored .30 over or did you do it?
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It sat for years and the piston rusted to the jug. The jug had some pits on it. I sent it to leeha, he had his local shop bore it. It cleaned up great. Nobody around here does it.
 
Wow mark:dizzy: did you drag all those up there? Or just the bp-1 and the hot saw? Was up that way last month visiting the dells.
 
Didn't McCulloch introduce it with the PM610 in 1978 and then the PM800 in 1980? I'm sure there was no Stihl trimmer with it before then. Some 2-stroke dirt bikes had it starting in the early 1980's IIRC. Seen something similar on some Kawasaki KX500's. Not sure who had it first, but I doubt it was Stihl. Most of the Stihl trimmers of that time were rebadged Shindaiwas, with the exception of a few of the large displacement brush saws (such as those based on the 041 and 08 powerheads).
 
Found this lurking on a shelf at the local shop collecting dust and keeping some 345 huskys and a jonsered something-or-rather company.

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The shop owner said a local traded it in a while back and where they got it from remains a mystery. Orginally I was just going to get it for a parts source for the super 250 already in the fleet, but since it runs ok I'm probably just leave it as-is but clean it up. The cut-off attachment looks like a OEM-type unit (?). And it's got a Tillison carb...

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...but not a Tilly HL, though, which explains the spring holding down the air cleaner cover. I still have no idea why the previous owner also plugged off the factory fuel line and ran the new line the way he did. (and why didn't bother to try and seal where the line runs through the hole he drilled in the tank) But this set-up seems to work for now but I'll ether run the fuel line correctly or get a Tilly HL and related parts from a donor saw and do it right.

And did I mention I only paid $30 for it too?
 
That's the second S-250 based abrasive saw I've seen. It's the first I've seen with a Tillotson HS adapted to it. Funny how they went to the trouble of making an adapter plate, yet went so half-assed with the AF cover, choke link, and fuel line. The last one I saw still had the McCulloch/Walbro flatback carb and 'normal' fuel line on it. IIRC it had the same orange wheel shield on it.
 
Pro Mac Hot saw.

Anyone ever wanted to have a Pro Mac 1000 Hot saw? Well chance will be coming soon. The money will get donated to a local education fund associated with my Church.

Anyway this same saw, cant get it to pop, probably something very little wrong with it. Just can not get it to start. It has a tuned expansion pipe and two piece head. Loads of compression and it has a compression release add to it as well. Just will not start. Does the kill switch go foward or back when trying to start it?

And if anyone locally wants to help get it going for me, let me know. NE Ohio
 

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