McCulloch Chain Saws

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Success with the carb rebuild on the 10-10S. Think I found my problem. Carb was super gunked up. The screen was almost totally plugged with fine sawdust. After rebuild it seemed to run great and cut at wide-open just fine. 20160831_203845.jpg



I also took a crack at tuning the carb on the 700 and got it running. Doesn't sound quite as healthy a the 10-10 but seems to pull about the same. Found out the chain on the 28" bar was the dullest thing I've ever seen. But I dropped the 20"on from the 10-10 and it cut well. Well, that is after I cleaned the oil out of the clutch so it actually could pull the chain around under load ;-) This saw had needed some attention but now I think it is functional.

Rob
 
The fuel filter was the original giant felt wad on the end of the original fuel line. Probably lost a bit of effectiveness after 34 years. :). I have since replaced the fuel line and filter so hopefully we should be good for a while now.

Rob
 
On the PM700 and PM10-10S how difficult is it to remove, clean, and replace the items in the handle? I'm talking about the on/off switch, throttle trigger, and throttle lock paddle. The PM700 I have is really gunked up in there and it causes the throttle lock to not release easily. i.e. After starting I can't just blip the trigger to release it, I have to squeeze the trigger and push on the little nub on the throttle lock paddle.

I see that there are roll pins that would have to be driven out to remove some of this stuff. I'm sure I could handle that, but I wonder how hard it will be to get all the springs back in place and get the pins back in when reassembling.

Thanks,
Rob
 
psuiewalsh said:
Wonder if there is a good solvent to spray in there to free it up, pbblaster or such
Click to expand...

I sprayed some degreaser in the handle when I was cleaning the gunk from the engine fins and all over. It didn't make a major difference but I should probably hit it again and maybe blow it out with an air hose.

Rob
 
psuiewalsh said:
Wonder if there is a good solvent to spray in there to free it up, pbblaster or such

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

PBBlaster is good... If it's too badly gunked up for PBBlaster to free it up, you can try and flush with Stoddard Solvent (test on any plastic and paint first), aka KEROSENE/charcoal starter fluid/WD40 (whatever you may have heard, the MSDS reveals that Water Displacement formula 40 is just Stoddard Solvent with added corrosion inhibitors - that's why it ruins locks and other delicate/precision mechanisms, it's just oily enough to draw in dust and grit before it slowly evaporates) and after de-gunking, lubricate with PBBlaster...
 
Got the PM 800 with 28 inch bar out today to cut 2 big maples today. Trees were 34 to 36 inches across. I cut and cut on it until only about 4 or 5 inches were still holding it and it would not fall. Had to finish pulling it dawn with a tractor. Could not get it to fall. Once on the ground I was cutting it into manageable pieces and hit something very hard. My saw just started bouncing. I thought I had hit like steal or a rock grown up in it. The guy that owned the property was about 70 and he said he used to play on those trees when he was young, it was that old. I only lacked about 4 or 5 inches getting threw it so we took the bucket on the tractor and finished splitting it. What we found was a big knot. This thing took the points off a brand new Oregon LPX chain. Took several big chunks out of the teeth themselves. Ruined the chain I think beyond repair. Has anyone ever hit a knot in a maple that hard? The PM 800 performed flawlessly but that knot destroyed a brand new chain. What chains are you using on large saws? Are their a better chain for this saw?
 
Brian Thacker said:
Got the PM 800 with 28 inch bar out today to cut 2 big maples today. Trees were 34 to 36 inches across. I cut and cut on it until only about 4 or 5 inches were still holding it and it would not fall. Had to finish pulling it dawn with a tractor. Could not get it to fall. Once on the ground I was cutting it into manageable pieces and hit something very hard. My saw just started bouncing. I thought I had hit like steal or a rock grown up in it. The guy that owned the property was about 70 and he said he used to play on those trees when he was young, it was that old. I only lacked about 4 or 5 inches getting threw it so we took the bucket on the tractor and finished splitting it. What we found was a big knot. This thing took the points off a brand new Oregon LPX chain. Took several big chunks out of the teeth themselves. Ruined the chain I think beyond repair. Has anyone ever hit a knot in a maple that hard? The PM 800 performed flawlessly but that knot destroyed a brand new chain. What chains are you using on large saws? Are their a better chain for this saw?
Click to expand...

I use one of my 82cc macs with 404 chain. I can't remember the model number of the chain but I can probably look it up. Anyway, the 404 seems to stay sharper longer. It's usually my go to firewood saw because it's a 20" bar with 404 and 8 tooth sprocket. That 404 8 tooth is larger diameter than a .375 8 tooth so I get more chain speed. Obviously, the SP81 has enough guts to pull it easily.


SIGNATURE:

Quote by Delton: You ain't riding the Bull without some type of collateral damage. Scratches, gouges, etc. But if you do happen to be the type that Armoralls your tires and waxes your panels, we have a nice stretch of blacktop you can raise hell on lmao
 
McCulloch Titan 560 needing EI/coil 240483 and would like to know if there is anyway to tell if it is the 54cc or 60cc version, other than popsicle stick measure it in the exhaust..
any help appreciated.
See it in my photo gallery:link below
 
That 7-10 Automatic looks a lot like a precursor to the Pro Mac 700. Is that the case?

Also, how does one adjust the oil volume? I think my new PM700 needs a reduction too.

Rob
 
BigBlue said:
That 7-10 Automatic looks a lot like a precursor to the Pro Mac 700. Is that the case?

Also, how does one adjust the oil volume? I think my new PM700 needs a reduction too.

Rob
Click to expand...

You have to remove the oil tank cover to adjust the oil volume. I'll PM you a link to a repair manual for the 10 series that will explain the process. Look in section 5, page 4 (I think). You are looking for a hex head screw with a jam nut on the bottom of the pump.

You will have to hear from one of the experts on the diff between the 700 and the 7-10A. I've seen people say the 7-10 has a little more power than the 700 but I've never run mine side by side.
 
I ran my 7-10 (rings were pretty fresh) against a mint PM700 and the 7-10 was faster every time. I think perhaps they changed the porting on the PM700 to gain some life from the saw.

The 82cc models all had pretty aggressive porting as well, to the point that McCulloch recommended running 32:1 in all of them to avoid problems.

Mark
 
fossil said:
Google McCulloch bar plates PN 64330.

They're not hard to find.
Click to expand...

Really? I only see a couple out there, mainly on eBay, and they are close to $20 each. I was hoping someone here might have a line on some that were a bit more affordable.
 

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