McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

... Also seem to recall an approach that involved drilling two more holes and tapping the case?

...

Oiler drilling jig

Mark, as promised below are pictures of the jig I rigged together yesterday after you put the thought in my brain. It sure beats using an elevated gasket. If I did this all the time (or had the materials on hand), I would make it out of tubing and fit it with an end that positions off the cylinder screw holes. I wish I had done this the first time as there would be no JB Weld filling my original elongated holes. You might can see in one of the pictures that I didn't get it quite square to the back but since it pivots on the OME screw it didn't really adversely affect it. Ron

...
I did get some of the jigs made today for drilling the 10 Series oil tanks for the 3 screw oil pumps, and learned quite a lot about the changes over the years as I was doing it. I will start a new 10 Series oiler thread in the main forum and try to document the whole oiler as well as the drill jig. I will still need to order a few more spacers from McMaster Carr to finish up the last 4 pieces. Here is a teaser...



With the drill jigs nearly complete, I finally got to start putting the CP55 back together. I rather enjoy working on the 10 Series saws.

View attachment 326001

Mark

 

[rocketnorton]

I don't have a spare rod, but I do have a whole spare Mac 15 that I could part with if you want it. And a spare fuel/oil tank for it too. It has spark and good compression.

interested. this one is nice paint, all decals, + g spark & comp. hate to waste a complete saw for one part. $$$?

 

[ML12]

@rocketnorton I sent you a PM

 

[svk]

Also ran across this thread... http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.190113/

Excellent explanation, Mark. The effort is very much appreciated. Just wish the pics were still there, though I think your later version probably covered most of what was lost.

@mortalitool

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

“Oiler drilling jig....

Very cool. Thanks for posting that.

Not sure I can measure up to that level of ambitious solution. Hell, I figured a couple dots on the case with a Sharpie and some drillin' would be about it. I'll probably give the clip a try after reading up on that a bit more unless these jigs are floating around and available. Clearly seems to be the optimal solution and I do have several 10 series saws to rebuild. But I also see mention of 'elevated gasket'?????

At least the parts washer got cleaned out for another coupla years of de-gunkin'. Wasn't pretty.

 

[fossil]

Very cool. Thanks for posting that.

Not sure I can measure up to that level of ambitious solution. Hell, I figured a couple dots on the case with a Sharpie and some drillin' would be about it. I'll probably give the clip a try after reading up on that a bit more unless these jigs are floating around and available. Clearly seems to be the optimal solution and I do have several 10 series saws to rebuild. But I also see mention of 'elevated gasket'?????

At least the parts washer got cleaned out for another coupla years of de-gunkin'. Wasn't pretty.

The clips work well. The PM700 late version with the grey case and black covers I picked up had one installed in it

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'll do some looking around and give it a go if I can rustle one up. I presume they're readily available? Hafta check my PM700's, too. I believe they are earlier ones than yours.

 

[fossil]

I'll do some looking around and give it a go if I can rustle one up. I presume they're readily available? Hafta check my PM700's, too. I believe they are earlier ones than yours.

Here's a link to a kit. The rivet looking things are eyelets that fit
into the rear holes on the pump. I don't think they are critical.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MCCULLO...411751?hash=item5441749327:g:XUAAAOSwnHZYdA9o

The clips shouldn't be hard to make The steel isn't spring steel. I can shoot some detailed photos and provide picks and dimensions if your game at trying to make a few. I figure a grinder, pliers and some tin snips ought to be all the tools you would need to make them. Wide steel pallet strapping might be a good material to use.

 

[heimannm]

The brass inserts are intended to prevent the steel clip from wearing excessively into the plastic oil pump body. For an occasional use saw they can be ignored, for a saw you run everyday they would be desirable.

There is a kit with the spring clip, brass eyelets, and the steel clip, I believe the PN is 2145246 which also includes the thicker hard rubber gasket.

Poge - if you can wait until I return to USA next week I can send one of the reproduction clips that Steve Anderson (Steve in NW WI) made up, it will work fine if you already have the thick hard rubber gasket in good condition.



Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks for link and the input, guys. I can certainly wait until you get home, Mark. But here's a pic of my oil pump and the gasket(s) I removed. They are a distinctly different style from the pic you posted. I peeled them apart to show the distortion. Haven't had time to get into the IPL's yet to research the matter. Oil pump is obviously metal instead of plastic in my case, too.

​

Another question: Is the impulse nipple supposed to be a solid press fit into the case or somehow sealed? Mine popped right out when I started moving the tank around.

​

 

[heimannm]

Remind me next week and I will get the clip in the mail. It looks like someone combined the thck, hard rubber gasket with one of the older adhesive backed gaskets, probably in hopes of achieving a better seal. Let me see if I can dig up a new rubber gasket as well.

The nipple is a press fit into the crankcase. I have had a couple come loose like that, I pressed them back in with some Indian Head gasket shellac and have not had any issues.

Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looking more closely, it looks like someone used Dirko (or some type of red silicone) for the impulse nipple in the past. And the oil pump gasket is just a regular thickness with that additional membrane. Started going through IPL's last evening and have yet to find that type of gasket. All I've run across have the slot down the middle which corresponds to the opening in the tank (vs. the open round hole the same size as the diaphragm)...., presumably an improved later version.

So about these Mac part numbers...as in the oil line for starters. I've run across a couple different numbers across the IPL's and come up with another one on eBay ( 91509) that seems to be the all-inclusive one pretty much across the board for the 10 series. Is there a point historically where part numbers sort of got consolidated into a cross reference somewhere? Or is all that stuff in the volumes of service bulletins? Or is it something you just learn over time working on these?

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch entered a transition period in the early 1980's as they changed from the old 5 digit part numbers (64325, 86113, etc.) to 6 digit part numbers starting with 2 i.e 216053. They were still using a mix of newer and older part numbers into the 1990's, as parts were added or revised they received the new 6 digit part numbers.

I believe at some point all of the active old 5 digit part numbers were converted to 6 digit numbers but I don't have late enough documents to know when that happened. There are master cross reference lists out there (call Bob Johnson with an old number and he will note what it was changed to) but I believe a large quantity of older parts were obsolete by the time they switched all the active parts over so the obsolete parts retained the old 5 digit numbers.

The large frame saws were all obsolete by the time the part numbers started changing so those parts were not affected as best I can determine.

The 10 Series, 300 Series, 600 Series, and Mini Macs all have a blend of the old and the new part numbers.

The Italian Mac and the Jen Feng Macs all had 6 digit part numbers starting with 2 or 3.

The 10 Series oil pick up line went from 62123 to 62123B to 91672 (I don't find 91509 in an of my IPL's), there may be others but those are the numbers I find looking thorough a collection of IPL's. I do know that there were two distinct versions of that oil pick up line, one with a thicker "flange" on the top end and the other with a thinner "flange". It is easier to get the thinner flange worked through the hole in the oil tank. There were two different gaskets used as well, a thicker gasket with the thicker flange and a thinner gasket with the thinner flange. Thick flange and thin gaskets results in the check valve (the small disc) being sealed closed and not oil will pump. The two gasket part numbers are 62230 and 91669. My failing memory says the later numbers were the thicker flange and gasket.

This doesn't really help much, does it?

Another thing I learned from Mike Jackson was there was no rhyme or reason to the sequencing of part numbers. The numbers were in a pot and whoever came along next needing a new part number got the next on in sequence so successive part numbers might be found on the 10 welder, a 795 saw, or a Mini Mac saw depending on who pull the next number out of the pot.

Mark

 

[rocketnorton]

met another member from here last nite. good visit and he's not far away. wants to bring some saws next time...
he left a mac 15 here. hopin there's a good rod in it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

McCulloch entered a transition period in the early 1980's as they changed from the old 5 digit part numbers (64325, 86113, etc.) to 6 digit part numbers starting with 2 i.e 216053. They were still using a mix of newer and older part numbers into the 1990's, as parts were added or revised they received the new 6 digit part numbers.

The 10 Series, 300 Series, 600 Series, and Mini Macs all have a blend of the old and the new part numbers.

The Italian Mac and the Jen Feng Macs all had 6 digit part numbers starting with 2 or 3.

The 10 Series oil pick up line went from 62123 to 62123B to 91672 (I don't find 91509 in an of my IPL's), there may be others but those are the numbers I find looking thorough a collection of IPL's. I do know that there were two distinct versions of that oil pick up line, one with a thicker "flange" on the top end and the other with a thinner "flange". It is easier to get the thinner flange worked through the hole in the oil tank. There were two different gaskets used as well, a thicker gasket with the thicker flange and a thinner gasket with the thinner flange. Thick flange and thin gaskets results in the check valve (the small disc) being sealed closed and not oil will pump. The two gasket part numbers are 62230 and 91669. My failing memory says the later numbers were the thicker flange and gasket.

This doesn't really help much, does it?

Actually it does. I appreciate the explanation and suspected something along those lines. (And your memory seems just fine to me!)

So here's what I get when I search 'McCulloch SP81 oil line'... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191487675842?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

I've also seen a 91672 somewhere. Searching for 62123(B) results in finding what appears to be the same oil pickup hose kit as the 91509. As mentioned (and like yourself), I've yet to find the 91509 # in my 10 series IPL's either...., hence my original part # question. Regardless, I have one on the way for $5.98 shipped and it won't go to waste among the 10-10's waiting in line if for some reason it doesn't work for the SP81. Don't see why it won't, though it does appear to have the smaller flange than the one I destroyed trying to pull through the tank hole.

 

[heimannm]

It looks like 91509 is the kit including the hose, screen, check valve disc, and the gasket. Looks like a good deal and having the hose, gasket, and disc all in one kit almost assures the parts will work together.

Perusing the different e-bay options show some with the screen in the hose, others the screen is separate. If anyone ever figures out how to install the screen in the hose without wrecking it, please post a tutorial.

Mark

 

[mathewsdxt75]

I scored a free Mcculloch titan 620 today. My local saw shop gave it to me today for helping him out from time to time. The piston is scored. I have to see if the cylinder will clean up.
For the Mcculloch guys, were these a decent saw? Or am I wasting my time and money? The guy I got it from, I trust, and he said that they weren't too bad.

 

[brandonstc6]

I scored a free Mcculloch titan 620 today. My local saw shop gave it to me today for helping him out from time to time. The piston is scored. I have to see if the cylinder will clean up.
For the Mcculloch guys, were these a decent saw? Or am I wasting my time and money? The guy I got it from, I trust, and he said that they weren't too bad.

I believe they are made in Italy and are pretty good. I had a pm380 once, it was made in Italy too and I was quite impressed.


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[mathewsdxt75]

I believe they are made in Italy and are pretty good. I had a pm380 once, it was made in Italy too and I was quite impressed.


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The Cylinder and Piston look rough. The cylinder should be fine. I started cleaning it. I am still going to pressure check it because I want to make sure it is solid. The cylinder had stuff in it that resembles glue. I believe the air filter failed and it was pulling is saw dust and it is cooked to the cylinder. Brake cleaner broke it up and it wiped off nice.
Now to remove the aluminum transfer and find a piston.

 

[brandonstc6]

The Cylinder and Piston look rough. The cylinder should be fine. I started cleaning it. I am still going to pressure check it because I want to make sure it is solid. The cylinder had stuff in it that resembles glue. I believe the air filter failed and it was pulling is saw dust and it is cooked to the cylinder. Brake cleaner broke it up and it wiped off nice.
Now to remove the aluminum transfer and find a piston.

I haven't had much luck removing transfer. Most of the ones I've tried ended up having a big scratch or two on them. But yours may clean up fine. I've had a couple turn out fine.


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