astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Stick it through and mushroom the end if it slightly so It can't come back out
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Any tricks for getting access to the recoil spring on an old 380A? I'm assuming the notched barrel screws off the end of the shaft in the direction of the "OFF" arrow - but it appears to be well frozen to the shaft, if I apply any more torque trying to get it off I'm scared I'm going to break the castings.
I must have done something to the recoil spring because its not recoiling anymore.
I must have done something to the recoil spring because its not recoiling anymore.
Brandon - It should be possible to bend the throttle rod a bit so the "spring tension" keeps it seated in the trigger. I have a few that behaved that way (throttle rod would disconnect) and a little tweaking of the rod is all that's needed. There's no easy way to upset the end of the rod like a rivet or add a second bend or anything like that.
The trigger is held in place by a roll pin and they can usually be driven out if needed, but that won't likely help your situation that much. Look at how the rod passed through the air box and I think you will find it is possible to adjust the rod enough to keep it in place. If the seal (boot) over the throttle rod is worn out that can also let the throttle rod rattle around too much and slip out of the trigger. Older 10 Series saws just had a piece of felt with a slot in it for the throttle rod to pass through, later ones have a rubber seal with a boot that fits over the throttle rod.
Mark
The trigger is held in place by a roll pin and they can usually be driven out if needed, but that won't likely help your situation that much. Look at how the rod passed through the air box and I think you will find it is possible to adjust the rod enough to keep it in place. If the seal (boot) over the throttle rod is worn out that can also let the throttle rod rattle around too much and slip out of the trigger. Older 10 Series saws just had a piece of felt with a slot in it for the throttle rod to pass through, later ones have a rubber seal with a boot that fits over the throttle rod.
Mark
Cora? I made a special socket that I can put in the impact to break those loose. There is a hole or a slot in the starter that you can stick an allen wrench, screw driver, etc. through to hold the pulley while you unscrew the starter clutch. As an alternative you can take a large pair of slip joint pliers to hold the starter pulley while you break the starter clutch loose.
I have more that a little experience repairing starter springs for the old McCulloch saws, if the hook on the end of the spring is broken you can heat it up with a torch (mapp or propane, not your flashlight...) and reform it. They work better if you can add a bit of temper back but it is not an absolute necessity.
A new spring should look more or less like this.
This is on an 840 so it is different from your 300 Series saw but you get the idea.
The clever fellow before me just tied off the end of the spring with a bit of wire and anchored it to the saw to keep it from popping loose.
Mark
I have more that a little experience repairing starter springs for the old McCulloch saws, if the hook on the end of the spring is broken you can heat it up with a torch (mapp or propane, not your flashlight...) and reform it. They work better if you can add a bit of temper back but it is not an absolute necessity.
A new spring should look more or less like this.
This is on an 840 so it is different from your 300 Series saw but you get the idea.
The clever fellow before me just tied off the end of the spring with a bit of wire and anchored it to the saw to keep it from popping loose.
Mark
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I will try to bend it some and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks
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emf123
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Have patience with the recoil spring, it can be frustrating. I used my little butane torch, you got to get it red hot to take the heat treat out of it so you can bend it. Extremely frustrating when you get it close, then tweak it a little, then it snaps.
As far as the throttle rod goes, a pair of needle nose pliers and a screwdriver will help but you got to get a little medieval on it, bend it more than you think. There's no explaining it, just tweak it until it works.
As far as the throttle rod goes, a pair of needle nose pliers and a screwdriver will help but you got to get a little medieval on it, bend it more than you think. There's no explaining it, just tweak it until it works.
Finally have the SP81 on the bench. Yay! Fairly straightforward tear down even without knowing any of the tricks..., aside from those two 1/4 hex 8-32's squeezed up against the casting contour of the case bottom. Sheesh. Gonna be replaced with hex cap screws going back together! The manual oil pump line is the only casualty during dis-assembly so far. Couldn't get it back down through the tank for the life of me and tore it trying to pull it through from the bottom. Not sure if there is a trick there somewhere, but the flange at the pump end was very stiff and brittle and not gonna go back down through the hole. Period.
The seals on the new crank seem nice and snug in the bearings and I've read about re-using them? Yay? Nay? No experience in how durable they are or how readily available, either. (The small side of the old crank pictured above slid loose when I separated the case but still seemed very snug when slid back into position.) I'll certainly do a vac/pressure test before committing to re-assembly regardless. And what should I be examining when I pull the rod apart? Anything in particular wear-wise with the needles or surfaces? It all looks good assembled on the old crank, but...
Anyway, so far so good on the piston and cylinder at a glance. Haven't checked ring end gap or skirt clearance or any of that yet. Everything needs cleaned up before I go much further. Just glad I don't hafta press that wrist pin out. But there was quite a bit of oil in the case and cylinder. Pump diaphragm issue I presume? Or could I get lucky and it's just from sitting so long with a half-full oil tank?
Lastly, I didn't notice much in the way of any type of sealant between halves of the shortblock. I plan on a little film of Dirko putting it back together..., assuming there should be a sealant? Bearings seemed to be a super precision fit without any residual sealant to be found (or maybe not even necessary there?).
All gets cleaned up and sorted out tomorrow for either re-painting or re-assembly 'as is'. I'd like to re-paint it, but I'm also anxious to get it back together and run it!
Havin' fun, now.
Good evening guys. Does anyone know the overall and hole dimensions of both sides of crank seals for ten series? Found a guy with a bunch of seals but he needs to verify the dimensions.
PTO side is a standard 6119 or 6120, 5/8" shaft and 7/8" O.D. 6119 is double lip, 6120 is single.
There were two different flywheel side seals, older saws had a larger O.D. that matched the bearing O.D., later models had a wide outer race on the bearing that the seal presses into. I probably have the dimensions written down somewhere but not ready at hand.
Poge - I have a 1/4" socket with the walls ground down to get those pesky screws out. I have a supply of socket head cap screws that I use on some saws, others get an original to keep the appearance right.
As noted above, the PTO side seal is easy to get and certainly worth replacing now, that is the one that is more likely to be damaged by fiber or debris when the saw is in operation. The FW side is a standard seal, I just don't have the dimensions readily available.
I always use a bit of Threebond on both surfaces when I put one back together. Oil in the crankcase is likely due to the gasket on the automatic oiler leaking. I think the SP81 had a single screw holding that oil pump in place, adding the spring clip will help seal the pump and prevent future oil leaks.
Mark
There were two different flywheel side seals, older saws had a larger O.D. that matched the bearing O.D., later models had a wide outer race on the bearing that the seal presses into. I probably have the dimensions written down somewhere but not ready at hand.
Poge - I have a 1/4" socket with the walls ground down to get those pesky screws out. I have a supply of socket head cap screws that I use on some saws, others get an original to keep the appearance right.
As noted above, the PTO side seal is easy to get and certainly worth replacing now, that is the one that is more likely to be damaged by fiber or debris when the saw is in operation. The FW side is a standard seal, I just don't have the dimensions readily available.
I always use a bit of Threebond on both surfaces when I put one back together. Oil in the crankcase is likely due to the gasket on the automatic oiler leaking. I think the SP81 had a single screw holding that oil pump in place, adding the spring clip will help seal the pump and prevent future oil leaks.
Mark
Thank you Mark!
Off memory is the crank 5/8 on FW side as well? I can mic the bare block I have figure out the OD.
Off memory is the crank 5/8 on FW side as well? I can mic the bare block I have figure out the OD.
Griffdog1
ArboristSite Operative
Always pretty cool when a freebie turns out to be in this sort of condition. 
Mac 15 is a unique design but was a fairly long run for McCulloch, appears to be a PM850 and perhaps an PM60 in addition to the 795?
very nice indeed
Mark
very nice indeed
Mark
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
The mac 15 was marketed as a homeowner saw if I remember correctly
Your going to like the pro mac 850
Your going to like the pro mac 850
got a nice 15 here, too, also free. good thing took the reed block/carb off b4 tryin to start. one ear broke off rod. no pieces inside, so thinkin someone broke it putting together. need rod if anyone has spare.
Thanks for the input, Mark. I did grind down a 1/4" open end wrench trying to get the last bolt, but still ended up needing to use a mini vise-grip to get it loose.
And now that you mentioned it, I do remember a discussion about the spring clip solution for the oil pump. Just can't recall the details or implementation. Just searched and found this... http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/#post-4631394... assuming what I recalled is in there somewhere. Also seem to recall an approach that involved drilling two more holes and tapping the case?
Another issue I forgot to mention in my earlier post was one of the bar studs (front) was totally loose and just fell into the oil tank. (The rear stud is rock solid.) I'm guessing they're both supposed to be a press fit?
No time to do much with it today. Hope to drain and refill the parts washer tomorrow and get going. Been a while. Pretty nasty.
And now that you mentioned it, I do remember a discussion about the spring clip solution for the oil pump. Just can't recall the details or implementation. Just searched and found this... http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/#post-4631394... assuming what I recalled is in there somewhere. Also seem to recall an approach that involved drilling two more holes and tapping the case?
Another issue I forgot to mention in my earlier post was one of the bar studs (front) was totally loose and just fell into the oil tank. (The rear stud is rock solid.) I'm guessing they're both supposed to be a press fit?
No time to do much with it today. Hope to drain and refill the parts washer tomorrow and get going. Been a while. Pretty nasty.
Also ran across this thread... http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.190113/
Excellent explanation, Mark. The effort is very much appreciated. Just wish the pics were still there, though I think your later version probably covered most of what was lost.
Excellent explanation, Mark. The effort is very much appreciated. Just wish the pics were still there, though I think your later version probably covered most of what was lost.
Griffdog1
ArboristSite Operative
Guys other saws in picture are 740 (weird Australian left hand starter version), PM60, PM850 and PM570. I am doing some work on the PM850 at the moment but I have to say that I already love the PM570, so I can only imagine that this love is going to be enhanced with the 850. I cleaned up the 15 today, cleaned filter, carb and gave some new fuel and off we go. Just needs carb tuned a bit and we might cut some wood!
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I don't have a spare rod, but I do have a whole spare Mac 15 that I could part with if you want it. And a spare fuel/oil tank for it too. It has spark and good compression.
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
So I got the saw in today and it does have the automatic oiler on the top of the tank. Also the number on the bottom of the saw is 47873B there is no model number on the other side.
Any other way to find out what model I have? Other than measuring the cylinder bore. I think I see a head gasket sticking out like it has a removable head.
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