If the saw is running well, then I would just give everything a really good clean, install the new filter element and have some fun. The 10-10's are a great little machine.
McCulloch Chain Saws
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If the saw is running well, then I would just give everything a really good clean, install the new filter element and have some fun. The 10-10's are a great little machine.
brandonstc6
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My plan is to clean everything good, replace the air filter, fuel line, fuel filter and rebuild the carburetor.
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While you have the carb off you can look down into the cylinder and see if anything is in there. I have taken the plug out and used kerosene to flush the engine out. On the other hand cylinders and pistons are readily available for the 10-10s and I think even a PM-55 cylinder will fit and it is a 57cc instead of 54cc. I have been looking to replace one of my 10-10 cylinders with a PM 55 cylinder just to give it that extra little boost.
Brian
Brian
brandonstc6
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Thanks for the information. I will do that. I do already have a spare pro Mac 10-10 cylinder.
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Bottom side of the SP81E
Side view of the CP70 showing the location for the anti-vibe mount. The bracket bolts where the bottom of the handle would normally go, and then attaches to the lower brace through a rubber bushing.
Mark
Side view of the CP70 showing the location for the anti-vibe mount. The bracket bolts where the bottom of the handle would normally go, and then attaches to the lower brace through a rubber bushing.
Mark
Chris - that is were the tag was when I first opened up the saw. I was not the first to work on it.
Mark
Mark
Mark, I like the vice you have to work on the saws. Is that something you built or is that something MAC built or something you can buy. That would make working on saws much easier.
Brian
Brian
I put it together with odds and ends I had.
Others have built similar, nicer devices.
Mark
Others have built similar, nicer devices.
Mark
You beat me to the punch on that bracket mystery, Mark. But my two cents is included here anyway since I went to the trouble of digging through a few IPL's out of curiosity.
Thanks. Not bad for a rattle can special. It's getting there slowly.
There were two tanks. One (89880A) for serial prefixes 11 and 12 that happened to use the fixed jet carb, another (87888A) for prefixes 14 and 15 which did not offer a fixed jet carb option..., at least according to what I've researched among the various SP81 IPL's I have.
And depending on what your attic yields, I would be interested in using the correct tank for the adjustable carb though I do have a whole bunch of work into the current one with the cleaning, priming, painting, Red-Kote, etc. But now that I have the experience of removing and stripping one down and then re-installing one, doing it again would be a much easier and faster task..., even with new paint. And I did manage to get the choke rod installed correctly. Was trying the badly bent one initially...., with the hooks on the wrong ends and failing to actually realize the rubber snubber thingie was to hold the straight hook of the rod in place on the shaft plate. Duh.
And yes, Tim..., I'm painfully aware of the location of the #33 bumpers! It was quite difficult getting them re-installed as they are very stiff from age. The other two are still a mystery. Tried putting the bushing on the front a/v mount. It was an awkward fit and didn't seem to be where it's supposed to go.
By the IPL illustration the arrowhead style clip guide for the plug lead looks like it would pop right into that bracket, though the bracket is clearly overkill for the purpose and is indeed an a/v mount point and ground strap location for the later CP70 according to the Oct. '70 IPL.
I managed to salvage the broken recoil spring by heating and re-bending an outer end hook. Did it wrong the first time and re-heated again to red hot and reshaped in the opposite direction. Kind of a funky job but it's holding for now. Good to know the torch trick if (when) it breaks again.
Put it through some paces checking the questionable ignition for spark. The good news is, this thing has barbaric compression. Just unbelievable. The bad news is, no spark. I still have the whole Nova chip ignition assembly but would like to stay with points. Condensers alone are like $20 on eBay. Yikes. Time to scrounge through some mini-mac carcasses unless someone knows of a suitable substitute for the 61650/85385 condensers. Only thing I have found so far is the Phelon 08466.
Also found some stripped threads for mounting the starter assembly. Unfortunately one location appears to be threads in the body of the manual oil pump for the front upper left screw? I may try to JB that cracked area and re-tap there or use a heli-coil. The other spot is the top rear threads in the tab. Heli-coil should do the trick there.
Would like to get this one wrapped up..., at least phase one. Have a couple 10-10's sitting here I'd like to tear into and a Super250 in a box I'd like to get sorted out and started. Probably do another rattle can resto on it but should have better outside temps for painting and drying than for the SP81. Will take a bit more care in the process this next time around since I was rather surprised at how nice the SP81 turned out with not very much effort or attention to detail..., and without a couple of clear coats which I now regret. Plus, there's hardly any paint on the 250 parts so a good primer base should provide a nice smooth finish after a couple of coats.
Thanks. Not bad for a rattle can special. It's getting there slowly.
There were two tanks. One (89880A) for serial prefixes 11 and 12 that happened to use the fixed jet carb, another (87888A) for prefixes 14 and 15 which did not offer a fixed jet carb option..., at least according to what I've researched among the various SP81 IPL's I have.
And depending on what your attic yields, I would be interested in using the correct tank for the adjustable carb though I do have a whole bunch of work into the current one with the cleaning, priming, painting, Red-Kote, etc. But now that I have the experience of removing and stripping one down and then re-installing one, doing it again would be a much easier and faster task..., even with new paint. And I did manage to get the choke rod installed correctly. Was trying the badly bent one initially...., with the hooks on the wrong ends and failing to actually realize the rubber snubber thingie was to hold the straight hook of the rod in place on the shaft plate. Duh.
And yes, Tim..., I'm painfully aware of the location of the #33 bumpers! It was quite difficult getting them re-installed as they are very stiff from age. The other two are still a mystery. Tried putting the bushing on the front a/v mount. It was an awkward fit and didn't seem to be where it's supposed to go.
By the IPL illustration the arrowhead style clip guide for the plug lead looks like it would pop right into that bracket, though the bracket is clearly overkill for the purpose and is indeed an a/v mount point and ground strap location for the later CP70 according to the Oct. '70 IPL.
Also found some stripped threads for mounting the starter assembly. Unfortunately one location appears to be threads in the body of the manual oil pump for the front upper left screw? I may try to JB that cracked area and re-tap there or use a heli-coil. The other spot is the top rear threads in the tab. Heli-coil should do the trick there.
Power went out due to the passing storm last night so I didn't spend as much time in the attic as I'd planned. Not sure I'll get home in time tonight but I will try. I think I have 1 or two that have already had the Red Kote treatment up there just waiting...
Mark
Mark
Let me know what you find and what you may need for one.
And am I nuts (yes), or does that front upper left starter housing screw actually thread into the manual oil pump? I originally thought so. Then thought, nah. Now I'm back to it sure seems like that's where the screw wants to go -- though it looks like the tip of an old one is twisted off in there keeping the new one from threading. Don't have an easy out small enough for an 8-32, not to mention a hard enough drill bit that small to drill it out. Hmmm.
And am I nuts (yes), or does that front upper left starter housing screw actually thread into the manual oil pump? I originally thought so. Then thought, nah. Now I'm back to it sure seems like that's where the screw wants to go -- though it looks like the tip of an old one is twisted off in there keeping the new one from threading. Don't have an easy out small enough for an 8-32, not to mention a hard enough drill bit that small to drill it out. Hmmm.
The "front" hole is for an 8-32 fillister head screw that holds the shroud in place, the "rear" hole as you have determined is for one of the 8-32 screws holding the flywheel cover in place. I think on one saw I ended up trying to drill it out and went right beside it, the screw in the cover is pretty long so it tolerates some misalignment. I think you can see the two tapped hole behind the mess on this one.
Mark
Mark
Attachments
Yessir. Thanks. That's what I thought. Looks like there is enough real estate to drill out the broken tip and maybe get lucky with an easy out for the flywheel cover screw -- which I believe was crossed into the other threads for the shroud when I took it apart.
A couple of pics before I tear it down again to replace the manual oil pump for one with good threads and a correct tank for the adjustable carb thanks to Mr. Heimann's tremendous consideration and assistance. (Thank you, Mark.)
And no, my bench is never that clean.
And no, my bench is never that clean.
Looks great Poge.
Please send a tracing of that spike, I like the idea of mounting it on the side of the clutch cover instead of the original concept with the offset...just too difficult to reach the chain tension screw with the offset spike installed.
Mark
Mark
I completely forgot to comment on that. I really like it and will be more than happy to send you a trace. It's a Stihl spike with an 1124 prefix (but illegible part number) which would normally be for an 084/088. It doesn't look like any of the ones listed or any others I've searched so far in MediaCAT. Looks like it may have been ground down to eliminate a bottom lobe with a third hole commonly used for a chain catcher.
Thank you, Tim. A lot of fun and I was surprised at how the rattle can job actually turned out. The Rust-O Sunburst Yellow and Satin Black are a pretty good combination for the particular color era of the saw.
Nice machine Poge. I still need to get to my PM850 and PM570. Both need some work.
FWIW, I ended up "temporarily" using a condenser off of a mini mac (85358) when I had the OEM on my Homelite 902AM went down (PN 63626). It runs fantastic. I would reason the Homelite condenser off of XL 700-900 series might work going the other way.
But, I thought the condensers on the mini-macs, 85358, are the same ones across the 10-10 and SP series? If so, those mini-macs are just the ticket.
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