McCulloch Chain Saws

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I have a splitter, 28 ton job from TSC about 25 years ago, on its second control valve and coupling and I think both hoses have been replaced by now. I use it quite a lot and used it on most of this job but when you get down to crotches that are 30" in diameter and not a straight section to be found, it's time to rip it with a saw.

Mark
 
I have a splitter, 28 ton job from TSC about 25 years ago, on its second control valve and coupling and I think both hoses have been replaced by now. I use it quite a lot and used it on most of this job but when you get down to crotches that are 30" in diameter and not a straight section to be found, it's time to rip it with a saw.

Mark
Thats sweet. And yeah I understand that sometimes you gotta use a saw and noodle them. How did the 850 do?
 
This is a well used PM850 but it is still a very strong saw. It was a real pleasure even with the 28" bar almost fully engaged with the grain. My PM55 only has a 16" bar and it is almost unstoppable. I put a NOS piston and cylinder/crankcase on this one and what a saw it is.

Mark
 
I have found out that if you don't split elm just as soon as you cut it you can forget it. I had to do the same thing on some elm I cut last year but did not get to split it until this year. Finally broke out the pro 10-10 with 20 inch bar and as you call it noodled it. Once in half the splitter would split it.
 
Red Elm splits but it's a bit of work, sort of like sugar maple.

American Elm is a pain. Either noodle it or leave it in the elements for a couple years. Just before it starts to rot it will split nice and still put out good BTU's.
 
Mac 10-10 auto. Is there a replaceable bushing in the recoil? Broke the rope on dads old saw the other day, and when I went to replace it I noticed what seems to be a lot of lateral play in the pulley. Probably is why it never seemed to want to rewind the rope too well. This saw has a ton of hours on it and never had any major work done so I'm not surprised to find some wear.
 
Some of the 10-10 had a plastic bushing (57535 for the LH starter, 61635 for the RH starter), others had a brass bushing built into the starter/flywheel housing.

The RH start models are supposed to have the thin phenolic shield behind the starter spring and thin Teflon washer between the starter pulley and the outer shield.

The LH starter should have the thin phenolic shield between the spring and the housing.

Mark
 
Thanks guys, gonna take it apart and see how it looks. Now to figure out how to accomplish that feat.
 
I think I told you guys I would try to take more pics when milling. Man I wish I had taken note on how many board feet this saw has milled. Not really any trouble out of the saw either. I had an air filter tear a hole and the clutch drum bearing will occasionally gum up from fine dust. That's it though.

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The saw won't make a full cut on one tank of fuel! I need to time it and see how long it takes for one cut. It's a long time for the saw to be WOT and under load.


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The saw won't make a full cut on one tank of fuel! I need to time it and see how long it takes for one cut. It's a long time for the saw to be WOT and under load.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use a 850 for milling too, and yeah it's a pain in the ass when you run out of gas. I was milling a long, red oak, and got a couple feet from the end and ran out of gas. The first time I did it, I backed the saw all the way out, which sucked because you have to take your spacers out. Then I got a funnel and got just enough in the tank to finish the job! I'm going to set one of my 450's or 550's up for milling. They have a much bigger tank, see how that works.
 
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