McCulloch Chain Saws

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so.... why would a 105 be a better saw over the 125? there's no replacement for displacement (unless the 105's port timing is different or the transfer ports were closed on the 105, and open on the 125...but we KNOW that wasn't true...)


hmmm...


Awesome saw.

I want one.


OH..QUESTION: was the 'C' in the SP105C or SP125C for chainbrake?

is that a desireable saw?

or which of the CP/SP saw is better?

J
 
Mcculloch chain ID???

Got a NOS stock roll of (40-stamped on the cutter), (M stamped on the straps) and (M90 on the driver)

Any one have a clue??

Thanks guys!

Here is a picture of what I am believing is McCulloch chain I am trying to ID.

attachment.php
 
I finally got to cut with my recently aquired Super Pro 105. All I can say is WOW:dizzy: After years of cutting with a variety of 10-10's, this thing just rocked my world. Incredible! The SP125's and 797's must be something to run, this little one makes me grin.

SP105right.jpg


SP105rear.jpg


SP105front.jpg


And a grainy video of it going through about a 32" oak.

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Let us know how it's performance compares to the NIB PM800. Ron
 
Here is a picture of what I am believing is McCulloch chain I am trying to ID.

Matt,

wouldn't it just make sense to measure it?? it's not like there's much nostalgia value in old russstttaaay chain. :D

Let us know how it's performance compares to the NIB PM800. Ron

I would hope the 105 is NOTABLY stronger :D

J
 
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Matt,

wouldn't it just make sense to measure it?? it's not like there's much nostalgia value in old russstttaaay chain. :D

J

I measured 3 rivets and divided by 2, equals 9/16".
But the drivers have a step once it goes into the space the straps follow.
My calipers need more space to measure or I can't get a good measurement.
And old rusty chain is my specialty!! LOL! Take it when I can get it!!
 
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Speaking of OLD chains...

Well my measurements weren't off afterall. Finaly got a number off the chain on my McCulloch 77. It's Oregon 16C. That's 5/8" .063g chipper chain. The Acres site pic of Oregon 16C looks just like what's on the saw. That's interesting, as Acres site lists 9/16" (early production) and 1/2" pitch chains on that saw........but not 5/8". What size file does a fellow need for this stuff? 5/16"?

That's some BIG chain! Seems to match up fine with that big seven-tooth sprocket. No numbers off the sprocket yet either. Sprocket has little wear. I'll get some pics up soon. If only that saw could talk...:cheers:



http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6537b31300cfbc6788256e0f00024578?OpenDocument


http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...cb3b40e755cf9b1688256b00005e17c0?OpenDocument
 
Guys, I need help. I thought I could do this by hand but I can't. I'm not sure either of the two types of ring compressors Bailey's sells will work on a MAC. Before I take on my 82cc MAC build, I'm practicing on a 10-10 but I didn't get too far. Thanks, Ron

I don't know if this has been addressed to your satisfaction, but in my experience no compressor is needed. There is plenty of bevel leading into the cylinder, just make sure the ring ends are set on the locating pins in the groove (to keep them from moving around) and carefully work the piston in.

Large engines like the 200 Series etc. do not use the locating pins, but the 10 Series do...it should not be any problem to get the piston and rings worked back in.

Mark
 
Nice 105 Jim, I have one complete running SP105 on the shelf now, and another that just needs a bit of clean up and a few simple repairs to make it a goer as well. The other one I did have was traded for the Super 797 I've shown in a few photo's...reasonable trade I think.

I am curious about the new Carlton bar on your saw, where did you find it and what are the numbers/description of that bar, I would love to get a few more big bars for the big saws but don't know how to match them up with modern stuff.

Thanks,

Mark
 
This is the really nice S250 I picked up a few weeks. With new gaskets/diaphragms in the carb and fuel lines, the saw ran like new. I let it sit a week or so, and when I start it I can't throttle up to WOT without dying out and no amount of carb adjustment would help. Finally concluded the hi side was somehow plugged. Got it apart and in the ultrasonic cleaner (w/ diluted Simple green) for 2 dips and got the hi circuit opened up and saw was back to running great. Let it sit again for a week and the same thing is happening. Almost has to be the check ball under that big welch plug sticking.

The carb was VERY varnishy when I tore it apart but I figure I got all that out with 2 good cleanings.

Can I use diluted Purple Power in the ultrasonic machine to clean this thing or will I permanently damage something in the carb? I don't yet want to remove the big welch plug until I have a replacement in my hand.

Chris B.

Chris, Bob Johnson had the big welch plugs last time I checked. I had a similar problem on one of my 550's a short while ago, I took it all the way down and shot a little carburetor cleaner in the check valve. I could not get the seat out to do anything further, but it sure seemed to take care of the problems I was having with mine.

The nice thing about the carburetors used on the Super 250's is they are fit with a choke rather than a primer. The primer version will work fine if you have a primer but they can be expensive to buy, if you can find one.

Mark
 
CB- thanks! that explains something!

Is it typical to have issues with these? I have a 1-10 that has a flat-back, and it seems the primer doesn't work properly ( I have yet to tear into it...)

J

Most of the 10 Series have at least one little duck bill valve in the primer circuit. While it is possible to make a repair, the duck bill valves are nearly impossible to find. I did have success modifying a 10 Series carburetor body to accept the small red duck bill valve from the small Homelite gas caps but I can't find the thread where I documented it.

If you run in to issues with the 10 Series carburetor PM me with an e-mail and I can send some pages from the service book.

If you tear in to the carburetor it will be very helpful to have a good IPL to help guide you through the process.

Mark

P.S. Gee, if you miss a day or two of the McCulloch thread, you can certainly get far behind...

P.P.S. There can be tremendous value, nostalgia or otherwise in old chain, rusty or not...
 
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Let us know how it's performance compares to the NIB PM800. Ron

The camera battery died just as I was filming the PM800, so the vid ends abruptly before the end of the cut. The Pro Mac 800 is nice and will see a lot of firewood duty, but it doesn't even compare to the Super Pro 105. If I didn't have the 105, I would be pretty darned impressed with the PM800. :)

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The camera battery died just as I was filming the PM800, so the vid ends abruptly before the end of the cut. The Pro Mac 800 is nice and will see a lot of firewood duty, but it doesn't even compare to the Super Pro 105. If I didn't have the 105, I would be pretty darned impressed with the PM800. :)


good use of PPE for the 'watchers'... don't see enough sometimes :monkey:

J
 
I measured the rivets and divided by 3, equals 9/16".
But the drivers have a step once it goes into the space the straps follow.
My calipers need more space to measure or I can't get a good measurement.
And old rusty chain is my specialty!! LOL! Take it when I can get it!!

mmm hmm..

if it's THAT big, I can see your (and Mark's) point... not to easy to find!

um.... wouldn't it be measure three rivets, and divide by 2????
 
mmm hmm..

if it's THAT big, I can see your (and Mark's) point... not to easy to find!

um.... wouldn't it be measure three rivets, and divide by 2????

:agree2:Yep. That's the way to do it.


Wanna see big chain? Wait 'til you see the pics I'm gonna put of of the 5/8" chain. I'll try to put it against some 1/2", .404, and maybe some 1/4" for giggles. I know it's not 3/4".................but this is some BIG stuff to have on a 'one man' chainsaw...:givebeer:

Can't remember who it was.........but somebody here said they had a roll or big loop of 5/8" chain laying around. May have been Lee. Whoever ends up getting my McCulloch 77 will probably have to give him a ring...:cheers:
 
THE BAR JIM THE BAR!

Please tell me more about where you got it and the spec's/numbers on that bar...

Mark

Sorry Mark, I was going to post pictures, but I haven't got it done yet. I got the bar on closeout from Bailey's. It's for a Husky 372XP and I had to modify it. I don't know if they still have any, I thought it was a good deal, a 36 inch bar and 3/8 skip tooth chain for 75 bucks. I'll get pics and give a few more details later.
Jim
 
THE BAR JIM THE BAR!

Please tell me more about where you got it and the spec's/numbers on that bar...

Mark

This is from an older Canon bar; 72" bar,MC7 63 R, SLOT- .380" H, X 2.980" L with 3/8" mounting holes. The bar came with my 1-86 and I haven't tried it out yet. The oiler holes have been slotted slightly. Good luck finding what you want.
Frank
 
mmm hmm..

if it's THAT big, I can see your (and Mark's) point... not to easy to find!

um.... wouldn't it be measure three rivets, and divide by 2????

:agree2:Yep. That's the way to do it.


Wanna see big chain? Wait 'til you see the pics I'm gonna put of of the 5/8" chain. I'll try to put it against some 1/2", .404, and maybe some 1/4" for giggles. I know it's not 3/4".................but this is some BIG stuff to have on a 'one man' chainsaw...:givebeer:

Can't remember who it was.........but somebody here said they had a roll or big loop of 5/8" chain laying around. May have been Lee. Whoever ends up getting my McCulloch 77 will probably have to give him a ring...:cheers:


Ya Ya, I fixed!! Typo!
 

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